November 2-6                        Hayes, Virginia

Although we had planned to stay in Crisfield for another day, weather reports indicated that rain was on the way.  We decided that we would continue our journey south.  We were very impressed with the nice folks at Somers Cove Marina and we hope to return there next year.

The sun was shining and the bay was calm when we exited the river.  Numerous crabbing boats were busy pulling in their nets.  By the time we reached Tangiers Bay, the wind had increased and the waves caused some rocking motion despite our stabilizer.  It was not as strong as we had experienced when we left Baltimore and we enjoyed a lovely day cruising the considerable distance from Crisfield to Severn River Marina in Mobjack Bay.

This was our last day of cruising for the year and we were a little sad.  We had begun our journey in May with the intent to reach Baltimore (which we did), inflict no damage on the boat (which we did not), nor harm ourselves (which we did not).  We accomplished our goals, the weather was cold, and we were ready to return to Fort Worth.  We changed our airline tickets and would leave on November 6 instead of November 12 as originally planned.

The folks at the marina came on board the next day and checked the items we had listed as needing repair or maintenance. David was confident that he could leave the boat in their professional care while we were in Texas.  We began the process of cleaning and packing. Some winterizing procedures were necessary to insure that the heads and water tank did not freeze if the weather turned really, really cold.

On Friday, the weather was warm and sunny.  The water was beautiful with the sunlight dancing and glistening on its surface.  We made every effort to use all the disposable food and planned to give most of it to the dockhands in the marina.  After receiving the rental car, we made a trip to Wal-Mart for heaters to provide necessary warmth to keep the water lines from freezing. The boat was clean, our bags were packed, and instructions were given for repair and maintenance.  We were ready to leave but sustained a lingering feeling of sadness that our journey was ended for 2010 and we were leaving our beautiful boat.

November 1                    Crisfield, Maryland

Remembering our bad experience in leaving Baltimore late in the day, we promptly departed Oxford at 9:30 AM.  To our delight, the weather was chilly but the wind was mild.  We expected this to change when we left the river for the bay, but it did not.  The wind stayed mild all day and we had a great day for cruising south to Crisfield.  The large Somers Cove Marina is located next to the main street of the town and surrounded by numerous restaurants and shops.  We went to The Cove restaurant for delicious fried soft shell crab.

October 30-31                 Oxford, Maryland

We departed Baltimore’s Inner Harbor later than planned due to sloth—we slept late.  Nonetheless, we planned to reach Oxford before five o’clock.  The wind was placid and the day was sunny.  By the time we exited the Patapsco River and entered the bay, we were experiencing a definite change in wind velocity.  We soon were being strongly buffeted by waves.  Our vision also was impaired by constant spray over the deck and into the windshield.  After passing Annapolis, the strong winds almost seemed to stop any forward motion.

At four-thirty, we were still an hour away from our destination and battling the waves.  We called our marina to let them know we would be late and while David was getting docking instructions, he abruptly laid down the phone, and quickly reversed the gears.  Almost in an instant, we had come upon a long wall of poles standing erect in the water.  This signified a very shallow area.  Since our GPS and our guidebook had not shown such a barrier, we were very surprised when it materialized.  Because of the waves and the spray, we had not seen it until we were almost too close.  In another few seconds, we would have been grounded. 

We finally reached our marina in Oxford and were met by the kind woman who had waited past closing time to help us dock.  Unfortunately, she had no understanding of docking procedures and repeatedly let the lines go slack allowing the boat to drift away.  Finally, David “lassoed” a pier and brought us in so that he could jump on the dock and tighten the lines.  The sun had set and the evening was cold before we finally relaxed to a delicious repast of nachos and wine. 

I was exhausted from the trials of the day and took a lovely nap on the sofa while David immersed himself in sports.  I awakened to learn that Baylor had won over Texas in Austin, the Texas Rangers had defeated the San Francisco giants in game three of the World Series, and TCU was leading UNLV (they later won).

We spent a quiet Halloween in Oxford, which began with brunch on the boat, followed by a short bike ride through the town.  Oxford is home to less than six hundred year round residents but is a picture perfect Chesapeake village.  The homes are predominately early twentieth century two-story cottages in pristine condition.  Mansions line the waterfront but the homes within the town are modest.  Several stately small churches, a village market, several real estate brokers, and a quaint bookstore lined the main street.  Oxford has seven marinas and is noted for its sailing regatta.  There was very limited shopping.  We spent the evening watching the Texas Rangers lose the third game of the World Series.

October 26-29                   Baltimore, Maryland

We decided to return to Baltimore for a few days and visit with our good friends, Andrea and George.  They would be coming from Fort Worth to see George’s son, a physician at Johns Hopkins University and Medical Center. We expected to meet them on October 28 but the threat of rain prompted us to leave early. Although there was considerable cloudiness, the day was warm and the wind was negligible.  We made a quick trip and were again fortunate to have a slip at the Inner Harbor. 

We needed to do some re-stocking so we decided to walk to the Cross Street Market, about five blocks from the harbor in the historic Federal Hill area.  Occupying a long building that covers the area between two main streets, the Cross Street Market had a diverse display of individual stalls with meats, produce, vegetables, fruits, flowers, and sundry items. There were also a number of places serving cooked foods, to take out or eat there.  The prices were much better than the Food Fresh store on the opposite side of the harbor and the food appeared to be fresher. Our bags were heavy and we opted to ride the free bus back to the marina.  David steamed the mussels and made a delicious stock from the broth for cippino.  He added fresh fish and shrimp to the mussels, stirred them into the broth, and within minutes, we had an outstanding seafood meal that would rival anything in the city.

On Thursday, Andrea and George came to visit.  Andrea is always a delight and we were pleased to see George for the first time in many years.  After a tour of the boat, we went to Phillips Seafood Restaurant, a popular place on the waterfront.  We were seated outside and had the opportunity to enjoy the pleasant weather as well as the company of two long-time friends. George regaled us with stories from his medical practice years. After lunch, George graciously asked us to go with them in their car for a short tour of the Fells Point and Canton area.  We were surprised to see the large number of cobblestone streets and lovely old buildings in those areas.  As elsewhere in Baltimore, we saw no graffiti or litter.  Impressive! 

After the departure of our guests, I walked several blocks into the Federal Hill area to a delightful bookstore, The Book Escape.  It was a warren of small rooms filled with new, old, and rare books in mostly unpainted wooden shelves from floor to ceiling.  A small reading area furnished with a fireplace, old chairs and sofas seemed like a perfect place to spend some time.  After browsing the shelves, I found several books that needed to go home with me—one that I plan to give to Dave for Christmas and another on the Cone sisters whose remarkable art collection form the nucleus of the Impressionist galleries of the Baltimore Art Museum.

We had a problem with one of the air-conditioners and were told that a repairperson could come on Friday; this meant that we would stay a day longer than planned in Baltimore.  This gave us an opportunity to call Timberly, the daughter of our neighbor,  and invite her and her family to visit us on the boat.  They came that evening and their precocious daughter, Jocelyn, a seven-year old “monkey,” who climbed into and out of the bunk beds with amazing agility, charmed and entertained us.  Jocelyn had painted whiskers on her face in preparation for the Halloween weekend.

October 25                   Annapolis, Maryland

After a long journey on the “red eye” from California, a layover in New York before flying to DC, and a taxi ride with Maleek for our return, we arrived at the marina.  The Bottom Line was in fine shape.  We had no unpleasant surprises waiting for us.  David was delighted that his new toy, a radar system, had arrived.  A functioning radar would keep us from colliding with other boats in the fog.

October 12-15 Baltimore, St. Michaels, Annapolis, Maryland

We wanted to meet Stephanie, Lynn, Cindy, Sharon, and Pinki (The Sisters) in Baltimore at the city docks within the Inner Harbor.  We had stayed there two years previously when we chartered a boat and cruised the Chesapeake.  It is the perfect location for touring the city, restaurants, and enjoying the fantastic ambiance of the waterfront  Since the city marina does not take advance reservations, we left on Wednesday to insure that we would get a good place.  Our trip to Baltimore was picture-perfect—sunshine, gorgeous blue water, a light breeze, and interesting boat traffic.  We were successful in getting a slip at the city docks and were once again dazzled by the Baltimore skyline and the harbor front neighborhoods.  There are few places we have seen that are as beautiful as the Baltimore harbor area at night with the lighted buildings reflected in the water.       

Baltimore has recently begun a free shuttle that provides limited service in the downtown area.  We took advantage of it to go to the grocery store one more time to stock for the girls’ visit.  It’s always interesting and fun to utilize public transportation to see the city and meet the people.  We were very impressed with Baltimore.  It appears to be a clean and safe city with friendly and helpful people.  We are planning to return this year before going south.  David and I love to walk in the areas near the harbor.  There is a large Barnes and Noble bookstore housed in an old power plant that had been renovated with considerable style.  The huge smokestacks were still in place in the interior and had been coated with copper plates.  It was a great example of utilizing old buildings for new uses.

The girls arrived on Friday at noon.  They promptly had a glass of wine and went to the bridge to enjoy the sunny day and the great view of Baltimore.  They seemed to be awed by the whole experience—the trip, the view, the boat.  We ate lunch on the boat and they promptly left to explore the city.  They returned tired and ready to crash.  We ate dinner on the boat, talked, laughed, and had a great time visiting.

We left Baltimore on Saturday for a trip across the bay to St. Michaels.  The wind rapidly increased in velocity when we left the Patapsco River and entered the bay.  Pinki had not taken Dramamine and promptly became very ill.  She stayed prone on the bridge until we docked and continued to look a little “green” for the remainder of the day.  Those of us who were not sea sick went to The Crab Shack for delicious seafood and then took a long walk through the historic district.  The girls found some good shops and brought back to the boat sacks of sweaters, hats, and other items.  David made his delicious fish recipe from the fresh “butter” fish that we had found in a market.  It was outstanding and he received numerous accolades from our guests.

Sunday was calm and sunny as we cruised to Annapolis.  It was good to see Pinki in great spirits and enjoying the journey.  We docked at The Yacht Basin marina and had a front row seat watching boats of all kinds cruising up and down the river.  There were some megayachts in our marina on the way to Florida with crews of six to nine people.  It was all very beautiful and interesting.  Annapolis offered some good shopping and the girls contributed significantly to the local economy. David and I attended the Powerboat Show and he had another opportunity to gain information about radar systems.  I quickly became bored, returned to the boat and spent two hours washing off the salt from the spray of the waves.  Dinner was at the Annapolis Yacht Club and again we were fortunate to have a place on the deck to enjoy the great weather and the boating scene.  The following day, the girls had a final foray through Annapolis, ate lunch, and then left with Maleek, our favorite taxi person, for the airport. They were missed immediately! We spent the rest of the day packing and preparing to leave the boat for almost a week while we were in California. David had business in Oakland and that gave us an opportunity to visit Suzanne and see her new home. The boat remained in Annapolis at the Yacht Basin marina.

October 7-12                          North Beach, Maryland

We arrived at National Airport at noon, acquired the rental car, and headed for the marina.  We had several stops along the way for needed hardware supplies, food, and a delicious seafood lunch in a small Maryland village.  We were pleased that the weather was warm and pleasant.  Fall foliage was barely visible and numerous flowers were still blooming.

David had called to have the boat cleaned on the day of our arrival.  The cleaning crew met us with the bad news that the aft freezer was unplugged and everything within it had spoiled.  They had just finished cleaning it when we arrived.  We were disappointed that our beautiful and expensive prime steaks had ruined but we were very grateful that the mess was gone before we arrived.

We tried to complete our unfinished projects but the October 15 tax deadline interfered.  David was constantly on the phone or the computer.  We were also trying to stock the boat for “Stephanie’s Birthday Bash” while we had the use of the rental car.  This necessitated numerous trips to grocery stores and wine shops.

On Sunday, October 9, we returned the car to Annapolis and spent some time at the Sailboat Show.  David was intent on learning about radar electronics for our boat and talked to every representative that he could find. It was amazing to see Ego Alley covered with floating docks and numerous vendor booths.

Since the downtown area was packed with people, we took advantage of our reciprocal membership to the Annapolis Yacht Club, a beautiful facility that bordered the city harbor.  The staff was gracious and accommodating.  We had a lovely lunch on the deck and watched the passing parade of boats through the draw bridge over Spa Creek.  We returned to the marina by taxi and liked the driver so well that we made arrangements to call him the following week for Stephanie and her friends.

September 6                          North Beach, Maryland

We had to find a suitable marina for storing the boat during the month that we would be in Texas.  Referring to the Waterway Guide, we started making telephone calls.  We soon learned that the size of our boat considerably limited our choices.  Many area marinas could not accommodate our electrical needs (two 50 amps connections), draft (five feet) and/or size (58’ with an 18’4” beam).  Herrington Harbor Marina South in North Shore, Maryland had a slip that was suitable but short.   It was only 55’ in length.  We decided it would have to do.  Herrington Harbor South was a marina we had visited on our trip in 2009. We had been impressed with its size, accommodations, and location.  It was in a sheltered area and was near Washington, D.C. and National Airport, where we would catch our return flight to DFW.

Shortly after leaving Solomons, the wind increased considerably and we were buffeted by high waves.  We looked forward to reaching a marina and having time to rest, eat dinner, and prepare the boat for our departure.  Although the facilities at Herrington Harbor South were acceptable, the dockhand was untrained.  We were fortunate to have the help of other boaters who expertly caught our lines and helped us to tie securely to the pilings.  David was livid and heartsick when he discovered he had brought the bow in too far and had scarred the paint.  This easily could have been avoided if the dockhand had been observant and warned David in time to stop forward motion. 

Ironically, after securing the boat, we noticed that the boat we had looked at last year was in a slip just opposite our own.  We had remembered it as being a beautiful 54’ Hatteras in excellent condition.  It was and is today, but we immediately concurred that we had made the right decision in choosing our beautiful The Bottom Line.  With considerable forethought and tender loving care, we secured our “baby” for our absence.  As we walked down the dock on September 7, we looked back many times at our orphaned boat and acknowledged that we were already eager to return.

September 5                                Solomons, Maryland

On our earlier trip in 2008 to this area, we had docked at a lovely marina in Solomons, just a short distance north of the mouth of the Potomac River. We decided we would make a return visit but would choose a different marina.  That proved to be a good decision and a bad decision.  The marina was well located and we were pleased that we could easily ride our bikes into the town.  The marina also had a very good seafood restaurant.  The negative part of our choice was that the marina was inadequate to care for a boat our size and the dock help was untrained.  Fortunately, the weather remained calm and the boat was secure though the old dock was not very strong.

Solomons is a charming small town with an impressive waterside area and lovely little churches. Our bike ride was almost finished when I unwisely decided to make a reverse turn by stopping with my foot on a curb.  This threw me off-balance and with the wheel turned to the side and no longer in motion, the bike slowly fell onto the pavement of the street.  I abruptly made contact with the rough asphalt, cutting my chin, bruising my knee, and scraping both hands.  Traffic behind me came to an abrupt halt and a motorcyclist quickly came to my aid.  He apparently had watched many ER shows on television because he kept giving me instructions to “lie still, say my name, etc.”  Blood was streaming from the small cut on my hand and I appeared to be more injured than I was.  David helped me to my feet and we slowly walked the short distance to the boat.  I was grateful to have escaped with so little physical damage.

After cleaning my face and hands, examining the bike for damage (there was none), and overcoming my embarrassment, we went to dinner.  David decided to have steamed clams and was given a large bucket filled with them, all covered in Old Bay Seasoning. Using a mallet to crack the shells, he began the tedious task of separating the meat from the body and claws of each clam.  An hour and twenty minutes later, he finally finished his last one.  It was a lot of work but he deemed it a worthy effort!

September 4                  Deltaville, Virginia

We were excited to leave Norfolk and once again be cruising northward toward the Chesapeake Bay area.  Our exit from the downtown area led through a wide channel bordered by huge naval vessels and facilities.  It was an impressive display of military might.  Although the sky was clear and blue, the waves were choppy and we were soon planning an early call to port.

We visited Deltaville in 2009 when we came by automobile to the Virginia-Maryland area on one of our boat shopping trips. The boat we came to see was not in great condition and we quickly decided that we did not care for the interior plan.  This time, we came by boat after finally finding the one that we felt was “just right for us.”

We decided to dock at Dozier’s Regatta Point Marina, a pristine, picture-perfect place owned by Jack Dozier and his wife, the publishers of the Waterway Guide, which has been our Bible throughout this trip.  We were delighted to meet them the next morning, a Sunday, at the weekly breakfast prepared on the spacious veranda of the Marina office building.  Over pancakes, muffins, fruit, juices, and coffee, we met other boaters, some who were residents of Deltaville, and were recipients of some helpful information about the Bay and possible marinas we would enjoy.

August 28-September 3                                  Norfolk, Virginia

Without further incidence, we continued to Norfolk. The reason this area hosts the largest navel facility in America is evident as one traverses the south entrance into the harbor.  Huge blue construction cranes, looking like a group of dinosaurs, border the waterside.  Naval vessels, undergoing repair are berthed in huge facilities with mammoth lifts. 

We chose to dock at Waterside Marina because of its excellent location and reasonable charge.  We were docked directly across from a Hooter’s Restaurant.  David insisted that we could have curb service but I resisted. 

We planned to stay for a few days and then continue our trip northward.  We had ordered carpet for the salon but the installer could not work for us until Tuesday, August 1.  Since we were not on a definite schedule, we agreed that we could wait until the installation was completed. That evening we cooked steaks on the bridge, had a delicious dinner, and watched the dock activity and harbor action from our bridge. It was a great evening.

On Sunday morning, David suggested we have brunch at one of the local favorites, L’Eggs, located only a block from the marina.  We had a ten minute wait for a table in this café-like restaurant with no frills or fusses.  The food was good but not exceptional. It was evident, however, that the locals, who   followed us through the doors in droves, dearly favored it.

We continued our bike ride to the Douglas McArthur Museum and then on through the historical areas near High Street.  I left David at that point and headed to the Chrysler Museum of Art while David returned to the marina.

The Chrysler was even more opulent and beautiful than I remembered from my previous visit approximately ten years earlier.  The gallery walls were painted in rich jewel colors and the floors were beautiful oak, pristinely maintained.  I was fortunate to arrive during the exhibition of a small but excellent private collection of Dutch and Flemish artist from the 17^th century.  The wonderful Vermeer painting of “A Lady at the Virginal,” was displayed quietly in a side gallery.  I was thrilled to see it, one of only 36 known existing paintings by that artist and rarely seen.

During our stay in Norfolk, we had taken advantage of the extra time to purchase more vinyl flooring to correct the horrible ruin to the helm flooring.  As anticipated, the new flooring arrived and David promptly went to work covering the disaster.  It was immediately apparent that we had made the correct decision.  Although David was slow and meticulous, I was thrilled to see our helm flooring area was being transformed into something beautiful. 

In addition to the flooring, I had ordered a Berber carpet that we had both agreed looked “boaty” from Lowe’s.  We were able to have it delivered to Norfolk, picked up, and installed by a delightful man who did a professional job at a very reasonable price (we paid him more than he asked because we were so impressed by his service).

A severe hurricane warning changed our plans to leave Norfolk.  We decided that the best plan was to stay where we were, with additional security precautions, and see what transpired. On Thursday, we secured the boat, moved to the nearby hotel, and then decided to have our own “hurricane party.”  David had seen a day earlier, when we were riding bicycles, a small restaurant that he thought would be great.  He had only a vague idea of its location and name. Not to be deterred, we began our search.  After walking about ten blocks, we started stopping people and asking questions.  Soon we were led to The Carriage House, an establishment that has been in business for more than fifty years.  It is located in a real carriage house that once held horse, hay, and tack.  Once a tea room for society ladies, it has evolved into a Norfolk tradition with delightful ambiance and wonderful food. Our waiter had worked there for many years and told us great stories of the history of the place.  When he learned we had walked a considerable distance, he insisted on driving us to our hotel.

The weather reports at midnight began to indicate that the hurricane was less threatening than indicated and when we awakened in the morning, the winds and rain were very moderate.  We dressed and returned to the boat to find that only the dinghy cover partially had been blown away.  The day remained windy and the waters were choppy until about three o’clock when the sun came out bright and shining.

We took our bike, boarded the ferry, and crossed the bay to Portsmouth.  We rode our bikes through the streets until we found a wonderful nautical shop, Skipjacks, where we purchased a great lamp for the bow stateroom.  Leaving the lamp for a later pickup, we proceeded to explore the historical district of Norfolk.  It was small, without the wealth of Norfolk, and definitely struggling, but certainly to be applauded for effort.  Portsmouth has challenges dealt to it by the economy and other effects of change but it is making a valiant effort to overcome them.

Depending on the “incredible vibes of gourmand genius” frequently demonstrated by my husband, we began our search for a place to have a glass of wine and an appetizer before returning to Norfolk. With his amazing “bird dog instinct,” David began searching for the perfect place.  We made several bypasses before he finally stopped at Bistro Europa.  When we entered, we saw dark wood, lovely white tablecloths, and a delightful interior that resembled an established bistro in Paris.  Despite the early hour and our request for a glass of wine and appetizers, we received a gracious welcome and settled in for a wonderful “post-hurricane” celebration that eventually extended to several glasses of wine and four delicious appetizers.

We returned to Skipjack’s, a waterside nautical antique and specialty shop, to purchase a lamp that was deemed perfect for the bow stateroom.  On the ferry trip back to Norfolk, we noted that the sky had continued to clear and the waterfront was once again teeming with people.

August 27                                 Coinjock, North Carolina

Leaving Belhaven, we soon were navigating through the area commonly called “the ditch,” formed by a long narrow channel through shallow water leading into the Alligator River-Pungo River canal.  There were occasional homes and fishing camps but it was mostly trees and grass.  As we were going through a straight channel through shallow waters, David decided he needed a nap and, as he as often done in the past, he set the automatic pilot and left me at the helm while he retired to the salon sofa. 

I watched the GPS, checked the depth indicator, and consulted the charts.  At approximately 10:30 AM, I noticed another boat approaching at a speed greatly in excess of ours.  As it became closer, I started to move nearer the starboard side of the channel to give them ample room to pass us on the port side (the usual procedure for boaters).  As the boat continued to come closer, it was evident that it was not moving to the port side but was heading straight for us.  I was reluctant to move starboard because we could run aground in shallow waters and I did not want to move port because I feared he would correct his course and we would collide.  Instead, I yelled for David who immediately perceived the danger and, without hesitation, turned to port.  The boat continued at high speed and passed starboard across our bow.  We were both very shaken by this act of random and obviously deliberate dangerous abandon.  I turned offer the helm to David and lay down on the sofa.  If I had not been a “big girl,” I think I would have sucked my thumb to give me comfort from such a horrible and unexplainable experience.

Coinjack was actually a small marina and restaurant.  There was NOTHING nearby.  The evening was lovely and we enjoyed sitting on the aft deck and watching a steady stream of people entering the restaurant.  It was very popular with the locals.  The marina and restaurant appeared to be family owned and operated and everything was well-maintained.

 

August 26                                              Belhaven, North Carolina

After David completed some work for the office, we departed shortly before noon. The weather remained sunny and the winds were calm.  It was a beautiful day for cruising.

Belhaven Marina was very basic but it was near downtown. We were told that Belhaven was much larger than Oriental.  Unfortunately, size did not equate to quality.  Hurricane Hugo had damaged Belhaven severely years ago and its economy had never recovered.  There were many empty or deserted buildings in various states of decay.  Most of the active part of the town was located several miles away on the highway.  The place had the appearance of a West Texas town impacted by the oil field bust.  Fortunately, we had plenty of food on board and we did not need provisions or supplies. 

August 25               Oriental, North Carolina

We said goodbye to John Peterson and Jimmy Watts, settled our account at the Grand Marina, and pulled away from the dock only a few minutes before noon.  It was bittersweet to go through the beautiful drawbridge that forms the entrance to New Bern’s harbor but we were excited to once again be on the water.  Our voyage down the Nueces to Oriental was brief.  Following several shrimp boats into the small harbor, we docked at the small and quaint Oriental Marina.  The surrounding grounds and small buildings were pristine. 

We were directly across from the facility where the shrimpers docked and unloaded their catches.  The area had a distinct “fish smell,” which the natives termed as the “smell of money.”  We were reminded that we in Fort Worth use the same expression in referring to the smell of manure that permeates the Cultural District during the Stock Show.  Oriental was a small but lovely village that obviously had carefully guarded their heritage by preserving their older homes and buildings.  Tall, old trees and lush, manicured lawns, with few fences dividing them, surrounded mostly wooden two story homes or large, comfortable cottages.  There were several good antique stores and interesting shops.  We enjoyed an early evening bike ride so much that we repeated it the next morning. 

August 14-August 24                         New Bern, North Carolina

We arrived at the airport in New Bern shortly after ten o’clock and were driven to the marina in the courtesy car of the Hilton.  We were delighted to see the boat and everything seemed in place.  The wall covering in the heads and hall looked wonderful, the freezer on the aft deck was working well, and the A/C in the bow was functioning.  The following day, the workers began to arrive or calling to let us know their plans.  The next days were filled with activity as work was completed and projects began.  Some went extremely well, others were frustratingly mediocre, and all were expensive.

We had several evenings of rain, which usually ended before dawn.  The lovely town of New Bern was even more beautiful with the cooler weather and plenty of water for the plants and flowers.  We took daily bike rides and made occasional visits to the restaurants and shops.  On our anniversary, we invited John Peterson and his wife, Vivian for dinner at the Harvey Mansion Historic Restaurant and Inn near the marina.  To our delight, they arrived with John’s daughter, Michele and her husband, Scott.  We had an excellent dinner and an evening of good conversation.  Vivian a small, trim, and attractive woman, is also a physician. She seemed subdued by her more outgoing husband and his family.  I regretted that I did not have an opportunity to spend more time with her.

On Sunday evening, we invited Jimmy and Tammy Watts to have dinner with us.  We returned to the Harvey Mansion for another delicious dinner.  Jimmy and Tammy were charming and we had a wonderful time talking, laughing, and getting to know each other.  To our delight, they invited us to dinner on Tuesday evening.  We dined at Nickola’s, a small, charming restaurant specializing in Northern Italian cuisine.  The owners are immigrants from Croatia who, like many such newcomers to this country, have worked hard and become successful business owners.  The food was excellent and we had a wonderful evening. 

It is rare to meet new people that become instant friends.  We hope to see the Watts again soon.  Jimmy is one of the most talented men we have met.  He is a welder of composites for the Coast Guard facilities at Cherry Point and is an expert in metal fabrication.  He was able to design and make special attachments for our ladders that will greatly facilitate installation and removal.  He also designed, made, and installed a grab bar above the stairs from the helm area to the galley that will keep others and me from slipping or falling upon descent.

Despite work still incomplete, we were determined to leave as scheluded.  We would find time to do it ourselves, if necessary.  This was not going to be an insurmountable problem!

July 19             New Bern, North Carolina

I rose early and cooked David’s favorite breakfast, creamed eggs in country gravy over English muffins.  It was sheer indulgence for him as he usually makes his own breakfast of cereal or toast.  With some of the fabric left from the upholstery of the salon sofa, I make pillows from the forms inside other pillows that we had on board.  The new ones turned out very well and added a little style to the sofa.  My recently purchased sewing machine is a joy to use and I am slowly discovering how to utilize its many features.  Willie Nelson, the amiable driver for the Hilton, took me to Sherwin-Williams, where I perused wallpaper books for an hour.  I did not find the selections that I wanted.  I left for Wal-Mart, a new and very attractive store across the street, to purchase more items for the boat. 

Willie delivered me and my packages back to the marina in time to meet John Peterson and several people who would be working on projects for us.  John stated, “You will return to a new boat.”  He assured us that all the scheduled work would be completed by our arrival on August 14.  I hoped that this happy occurrence would not come with the cost of a “new boat.” 

David is never happier than when he is working or supervising work on a boat.  Today he was elated because he was assured that the workers were knowledgeable, skilled, and capable of meeting his exacting standards.  John Peterson did a good job in assembling a crew for us.  Tomorrow we would leave for Norfolk to catch the plane for DFW.  We were already dreading the prospect of leaving but were eager to return home and see the family.

July 15-18                New Bern, North Carolina

We quickly discovered that New Bern is a very special place.  The historic downtown area has been enhanced with beautiful sidewalks, pocket parks filled with flowers, and streets marked with brick crossings.  The city is celebrating its founding three hundred years ago when a Swiss baron brought a small group of colonists to this area. Despite some early problems with the Indians, the colony survived and prospered.  It became the seat of the Royal Governor of North Carolina (who built a magnificent and extravagant palace, beautifully restored) appointed by King George III and later was named the first capital of the state.  It was also the largest port of the area and had a bustling trade in lumber and shipbuilding.  Today, it is distinctive in its preservation of hundreds of beautiful homes from the colonial, antebellum, and eighteenth and nineteenth centuries.  Most of the homes are still privately owned and many are surrounded by gardens that are beautifully designed and maintained. Union troops occupied the city for more than three years during the “War of Northern Aggression” but were gentle with the people and the property.  None of the buildings were destroyed and when the Yankees departed, the owners found their homes to be intact.

New Berners today are proud of their Swiss heritage.  To commemorate the three hundred anniversary of the city’s founding, the citizens have commissioned more than fifty bears, painted by local artists, which have been placed in the downtown area. We enjoyed the ingenuity and whimsy of the artists.  The bear (bern in Swiss) is a symbol of the city and is prominently displayed on flags hanging from the lamp posts. 

The shops are more upscale than those in places earlier visited on this trip. People are exceptionally friendly and helpful.  There are more than twenty small restaurants in the downtown area and the ones we have visited have been quite good.  One day I found The Next Chapter, a small bookstore that sells mostly used books.  It is a charming shop with an owner obviously enjoying her work.  She loves to talk about books and is genuinely interested in everyone who enters.  She encourages small children to sit on the floor and pull books to read from the shelves.   It is a great place to visit if one wants to find a book or have an interesting conversation with an intelligent, lovely lady.

The downtown hardware store, Mitchell's, is over one hundred years old and still maintains a good inventory.  Unlike a similar store we visited in Florida, this one is well maintained and organized.  We enjoyed spending considerable time browsing the shelves and marveling at the items that are not commonly found in large, newer hardware stores. 

The churches of New Bern are treasures of architecture.  Christ Episcopal, a large red brick structure looks like something from Vermont or New Hampshire with its distinctive wooden entrance.  It is reputed to have a communion cup, a Book of Common Prayer, and a Bible that were gifts to the congregation by King George III prior to the Revolutionary War.  The First Baptist Church is a red brick Gothic style structure that is more than two hundred years old.  Other places for worship in the Historic District include a Methodist, Catholic, Christian Scientist, Presbyterian, another Episcopal and a Jewish synagogue. Each is historically significant in the history of New Bern. 

We are fortunate to be in a lovely, well-located marina, easily accessible by bicycles to the Historic District.  The area is flat and the many sidewalks and quiet streets have encouraged us to take daily rides.  We are finishing some projects on the boat and are in contact with people who will be doing some work for us while we are in Texas. Since this is the home of Hatteras, many of their former workers are available and have the skills needed to make the repairs that we want.  A friend and business colleague of our boat broker will oversee everything for us.  The repairs are minor but need to be done to maintain the pristine appearance that we want for The Bottom Line.  

We never tire of looking out at the water and the many boats that pass us.  I have read three books on this trip and have begun another.  David has completed numerous work projects and read manuals for the electronics on the boat.  Cable TV from the marina consists of three very blurry stations.  We have almost abandoned any attempt to watch more than the nightly news so we are out of touch with current events.  Sometimes that is not bad!

JULY 12-JULY 13     Beaufort, North Carolina

The short distance to Beaufort was made even more beautiful by the sunshine and a bright blue sky filled with fluffy cumulus clouds.  Hundreds of boaters and anglers were taking advantage of the weather.  Again, the coastline was dotted with condos and a mixture of homes, modest and palatial.

Most of the homes were made of wood and reflected the cottage style of the Carolinian coast with wide, welcoming porches, white facades, and dark green shutters.  Crepe Myrtles, white, pink, and red, and hydrangeas, filled with huge blooms, sharply contrasted with the stark white of the homes.  Beaufort Docks proved to be the perfect place for us to take a break from the ICW.  The town of Beaufort is the third oldest in North Carolina and rich in historically designated homes and buildings.  We were located in the active part of the downtown area and could easily walk to restaurants, shops, and local attractions.

We took the courtesy car and went to the recommended grocery store, a large Piggly Wiggly about a mile from the dock.  It was time to re-provision and we were glad to have a car to carry our purchases.  I had not been in a Piggly Wiggly since the late fifties when we lived in San Antonio.  Apparently, that chain is no longer present in Texas but it is widespread throughout the states we have visited the meat market—fat back, chicken feet, pig feet, pigtails, and chicken hearts.  There were boxes of grits in at least ten possible combinations, cheese, red bean and gravy, etc.

We returned to the boat, showered, rested, and then sat on the bow of the boat in the cool evening breeze to enjoy the changing scene of multiple boats coming through the harbor and the music emanating from the neighboring restaurants. We loved being there and being a part of it.

Monday was a workday. David spent the afternoon finishing a work project and I completed the curtains in the master stateroom. We rewarded ourselves with a long evening on the bow enjoying the scene around us and the lovely guitar music from the dock restaurant.  Dinner was a fresh fish, caught this morning and purchased at a nearby seafood market.  It was fine dining at its best.

July 11             Swansboro, North Carolina

We left Wilmington before nine on this Saturday morning and noted that the slight rain had not kept a crowd from gathering on the boardwalk to hear a speaker who was probably one of the local political candidates.  We soon reached the point where we would leave the Cape Fear River and once again join the ICW. We had to follow a very narrow channel, fortunately well marked across a bay that was dangerously shallow, and then pass a shoaled entrance into Snow Cut, which led to the open expanse of the ICW that once again bordered the Atlantic.  This waterway was wide and exceedingly busy with a myriad of boats loaded with fishermen, teenagers, families, and parents pulling water toys carrying excited children. We were constantly slowing to keep from swamping the water toys with our wake. Hundreds of condominiums and homes lined the ICW and gave us an indication of how popular this region is with vacationers and winter residents.  We were surprised that North Carolina had such an active coast life. We planned to reach Swansboro, our chosen destination, before six o’clock in order to have docking assistance.  Anticipating no problems, we were soon dismayed when we reached the Wrightsville Bridge only five minutes past the hour and were curtly told that the next opening would be at the top of the next hour.  No Florida and Georgia courtesy here!  Unable to moor to any adjacent dolphins (not the fish, the large pilings) as we could have in the Netherlands when we waited for bridge operators to return from lunch on their bicycles, we used the bow thruster to its greatest advantage, ate lunch, and observed the dock scenes of boaters and diners in nearby restaurants. 

Realizing that the next two bridges had similar time restrictions, we plotted our journey as carefully as possible to avoid a similar delay.  We made the next bridge with two minutes to spare but the second one was a challenge.  Despite running for fifteen minutes at top speed (burning sixty gallons an hour), we sadly concluded that we were not going to make the opening at the top of the hour.  To our surprise and delight, a voice marked by a distinctly North Carolinian drawl came through the VHF radio and identified himself as the bridge master and stated that he had witnessed our effort to reach the bridge and would delay the opening for a few minutes in order for us to make it through.  We were grateful to avoid the dreaded wait if we had missed the opening and I blew him kisses when we passed through the opening. 

Confident that we were on the way without further delay, we again were dismayed when we saw frequent lightening in the distance, which became increasingly nearer.  The weather forecasts were consistently predicting no rain but we soon experienced a torrential downpour that impeded vision and progress.  Again, I was grateful that we had bought a boat that was heavy and stable in such turbulence.  Knowing that we probably would be delayed in our arrival at Swansboro, I was reaching for my phone when I received a call from the marina.  They were willing to wait for us.  Southern hospitality at its best!  We arrived about ten minutes before six but could not dock because of the lightening in the area.  Finally we had a break and two charming boys came to help us dock.  The rain stopped at that moment and the sky cleared to provide a beautiful sunset.  After docking, I walked the few blocks to downtown Swansboro and visited its small historical district of old shops and homes.  With luck, I found the only shop selling wine.  They had a clearance on their stock and had only fifteen bottles in inventory.  Fortunately, I found two bottles of Sauvignon Blanc that proved to be excellent.  Wine and dinner on the boat with a good DVD movie was a happy conclusion to a very busy day.

July 9 and July 10    Wilmington, North Carolina

The route to Wilmington was through long stretches of pristine marshes with frequent views of the Atlantic.  Sandy beaches became much more frequent on the ocean side of the ICW.  Cormorants, a common species of sea bird that varies considerably in size and coloring, were often seen diving headfirst into the water and emerging with a quick shake of their heads, indicating they had swallowed the fish that had been their unfortunate prey.  We have seen very few sea gulls since leaving Florida.  Osprey, cormorants, and egrets seem to be the most dominant birds in this area.  To reach Wilmington, we had to leave the ICW and travel on the Cape Fear River.  The route was wide and deep enough for the many tankers that follow it to the Port of Wilmington.  Approaching the city, we went under an elevator bridge, the first we had seen since we cruised from Rotterdam to Gouda in the Netherlands.  Immediately to port was the magnificent battleship, North Carolina, the most highly decorated naval vessel of WWII.  It was saved from becoming scrap by a concerted campaign funded by corporations, citizens, and the schoolchildren of North Carolina and is a major source of pride for Wilmington residents. 

We docked on the city docks immediately in front of the Hilton Hotel and adjacent to the boardwalk in downtown Wilmington. After resting, we walked the few blocks to the main part of the renovated downtown area with its many shops, restaurants, and bars.  It was definitely a happening place with folks of all ages, sizes, and descriptions strolling about.  Following a recommendation, we had dinner at Circa 1922.  The crabmeat cheesecake, a house specialty was outstanding. 

The following morning, we rode our bikes through the historical district and admired the many older homes that had been lovingly maintained and/or restored.  The wealth and importance of the city was immediately evident in the architecture and abundance of lovely homes and churches.  David had need of a prescription so we decided to ride our bikes the 2.7 miles to the nearest Walgreen’s.  The ride was relatively easy but the temperature and humidity had soared by the time we made the return trip to the downtown area.  When we stopped for lunch, I was almost overcome by the heat and effort.  With frequent compresses of iced water to my face, I finally regained my composure.

David, who had been worrying about his stamina before we left Fort Worth, was not even tired after our almost six-mile bike trip.  The exercise of the past week had apparently been very beneficial for him. Following lunch, we locked our bikes and took a trolley ride to see and learn more about Wilmington.  Although it is not Charleston, Wilmington has its own considerable claim to historical significance, Southern charm, abundance of notable residents.  Riding our bikes back to The Bottom and Line, we passed through people congregating to hear the music groups playing on the boardwalk and to shop at the small vendors nearby.

July 8                                       Little River, South Carolina

The cool and pleasant weather we have enjoyed for the past week ended today as South Carolina experienced some of the heat wave that is sweeping the Eastern coast from Maine to Florida. Before leaving Georgetown, I rode my bike the short distance to the ATM four blocks away and was almost overcome by the heat.  Fortunately, the AC on the boat works well and we stayed cool and comfortable as we proceeded up the ICW and the Waccamaw River toward the Myrtle Beach area.  The marshlands, which we had traveled through from Beaufort and Charleston, disappeared. We were surrounded by forests of cypress trees sitting atop pedestals of exposed roots sunk into the mud of the riverbanks.  Often the waterways were twisted and narrow.  Fortunately, they were deep and we did not fear becoming grounded.  It was very tranquil and beautiful.  Homes, mostly modest, were frequent and we passed numerous boaters who were fishing, cruising, or indulging in recreational fun. 

A long, straight canal led us through Myrtle Beach. Our route actually paralleled the main street.  In January, we had been there on one of our boat-shopping trips and traveled that street many times.  Today, we saw the “backdoors” as we literally passed behind numerous businesses lining the main street and backing up to the ICW.  We had earlier decided that Myrtle Beach was rather tawdry and commercialized so we passed it by to come too little River.  This area boasts several excellent marinas and reflects some of the Southern charm of South Carolina.  A nearby Italian restaurant was very inviting and we decided to leave the cooking to others this evening.  It was a wise choice.  Although the clientele was casually dressed, Umberto’s had excellent food, good service, and surprisingly sophisticated décor with soft lighting.  A pianist played and sang favorite songs from “our era” and we had a great “date night.” 

July 6-July 7                            Georgetown, South Carolina

As we left Charleston, we saw Fort Sumter, where the first shots of the Civil War were fired.  That tragic event in our country’s history has never been forgotten in Charleston.  There is still anger and resentment about its defeat.  Foolishly, this seems to be true throughout many parts of the South as evidenced by numerous re-enactors, Confederate flags, and stupid political statements.  Our voyage to Georgetown was through waterways bordered by gracious homes and lovely cottages.  After docking at Georgetown Marina, we rode our bikes into town.  We quickly realized that this was the town we had visited in January when we came to South Carolina to look at a boat near Myrtle Beach.  We immediately returned to the great seafood restaurant to experience again their delicious fried oyster sandwiches.  Georgetown was another enclave of beautiful Southern homes on pristine lawns dotted with lush hydrangeas and numerous other flowering plants.  The downtown area had carefully maintained and restored.  We toured several antique stores. One was a destination for designers with affluent clients and filled with opulent furniture and accessories.  The marina was quiet with lovely views of the water and moored boats on the opposite shore.  Dinner on the bridge with a lovely sunset was a perfect ending to a wonderful day.

July 3-July 5                Charleston, South Carolina

We were fortunate to find a slip in the lovely Charleston City Marina, located within blocks of downtown with many conveniences and attractions.  We were on the Megadock with huge yachts that could almost have used The Bottom Line as a dinghy. All of them had crews, young, tanned, agile, and dressed in khakis and monogrammed shirts.  Several had their own dock carts, similar to a golf cart, which bore the names of the yachts.  Charleston presented a wonderful opportunity to ride our bicycles.  We found a lovely place for breakfast, Caviar and Bananas, near the College of Charleston.  It was an upscale deli with interesting and delicious foods.  Everything, of course, was organic.  We discovered Harris Teeter for groceries and fresh seafood.  Located in a former train station, HT was a delightful blend of necessities and specialty items.  We loved browsing their aisles.  On a long bike ride, we discovered Hominy’s, a small restaurant that appeared to be very charming with an interesting Southern menu.  On Sunday, we went there for breakfast and waited in the long line outside until we were given a small table on the patio.  The food was different, Southern (lots of butter, cream, seafood) and delicious. 

The many beautiful homes of Charleston can be observed much better by bicycle than by car and we rode for hours through the quaint neighborhoods admiring the architecture, experiencing the historical ambiance, and understanding why Charleston is regarded as a United States treasure.  The festivities of July Fourth began as darkness descended shortly after 9:15 PM.  Our bridge was an excellent place to see three fireworks displays.  We prepared a delicious steak dinner, fortified our trays with wine, and sat for hours in delightful weather watching the gorgeous display of color over the water and the city.  It was truly one of the best evenings of our lives and an unforgettable experience. On Monday, another legal holiday, presented an opportunity to take a long bike ride around the waterfront and through High Street, with its interesting shops before heading for HT for more supplies.  We spent a long evening on the bridge looking at the water and the city lights as we said a reluctant farewell to Charleston.