July 19             New Bern, North Carolina

I rose early and cooked David’s favorite breakfast, creamed eggs in country gravy over English muffins.  It was sheer indulgence for him as he usually makes his own breakfast of cereal or toast.  With some of the fabric left from the upholstery of the salon sofa, I make pillows from the forms inside other pillows that we had on board.  The new ones turned out very well and added a little style to the sofa.  My recently purchased sewing machine is a joy to use and I am slowly discovering how to utilize its many features.  Willie Nelson, the amiable driver for the Hilton, took me to Sherwin-Williams, where I perused wallpaper books for an hour.  I did not find the selections that I wanted.  I left for Wal-Mart, a new and very attractive store across the street, to purchase more items for the boat. 

Willie delivered me and my packages back to the marina in time to meet John Peterson and several people who would be working on projects for us.  John stated, “You will return to a new boat.”  He assured us that all the scheduled work would be completed by our arrival on August 14.  I hoped that this happy occurrence would not come with the cost of a “new boat.” 

David is never happier than when he is working or supervising work on a boat.  Today he was elated because he was assured that the workers were knowledgeable, skilled, and capable of meeting his exacting standards.  John Peterson did a good job in assembling a crew for us.  Tomorrow we would leave for Norfolk to catch the plane for DFW.  We were already dreading the prospect of leaving but were eager to return home and see the family.

July 15-18                New Bern, North Carolina

We quickly discovered that New Bern is a very special place.  The historic downtown area has been enhanced with beautiful sidewalks, pocket parks filled with flowers, and streets marked with brick crossings.  The city is celebrating its founding three hundred years ago when a Swiss baron brought a small group of colonists to this area. Despite some early problems with the Indians, the colony survived and prospered.  It became the seat of the Royal Governor of North Carolina (who built a magnificent and extravagant palace, beautifully restored) appointed by King George III and later was named the first capital of the state.  It was also the largest port of the area and had a bustling trade in lumber and shipbuilding.  Today, it is distinctive in its preservation of hundreds of beautiful homes from the colonial, antebellum, and eighteenth and nineteenth centuries.  Most of the homes are still privately owned and many are surrounded by gardens that are beautifully designed and maintained. Union troops occupied the city for more than three years during the “War of Northern Aggression” but were gentle with the people and the property.  None of the buildings were destroyed and when the Yankees departed, the owners found their homes to be intact.

New Berners today are proud of their Swiss heritage.  To commemorate the three hundred anniversary of the city’s founding, the citizens have commissioned more than fifty bears, painted by local artists, which have been placed in the downtown area. We enjoyed the ingenuity and whimsy of the artists.  The bear (bern in Swiss) is a symbol of the city and is prominently displayed on flags hanging from the lamp posts. 

The shops are more upscale than those in places earlier visited on this trip. People are exceptionally friendly and helpful.  There are more than twenty small restaurants in the downtown area and the ones we have visited have been quite good.  One day I found The Next Chapter, a small bookstore that sells mostly used books.  It is a charming shop with an owner obviously enjoying her work.  She loves to talk about books and is genuinely interested in everyone who enters.  She encourages small children to sit on the floor and pull books to read from the shelves.   It is a great place to visit if one wants to find a book or have an interesting conversation with an intelligent, lovely lady.

The downtown hardware store, Mitchell's, is over one hundred years old and still maintains a good inventory.  Unlike a similar store we visited in Florida, this one is well maintained and organized.  We enjoyed spending considerable time browsing the shelves and marveling at the items that are not commonly found in large, newer hardware stores. 

The churches of New Bern are treasures of architecture.  Christ Episcopal, a large red brick structure looks like something from Vermont or New Hampshire with its distinctive wooden entrance.  It is reputed to have a communion cup, a Book of Common Prayer, and a Bible that were gifts to the congregation by King George III prior to the Revolutionary War.  The First Baptist Church is a red brick Gothic style structure that is more than two hundred years old.  Other places for worship in the Historic District include a Methodist, Catholic, Christian Scientist, Presbyterian, another Episcopal and a Jewish synagogue. Each is historically significant in the history of New Bern. 

We are fortunate to be in a lovely, well-located marina, easily accessible by bicycles to the Historic District.  The area is flat and the many sidewalks and quiet streets have encouraged us to take daily rides.  We are finishing some projects on the boat and are in contact with people who will be doing some work for us while we are in Texas. Since this is the home of Hatteras, many of their former workers are available and have the skills needed to make the repairs that we want.  A friend and business colleague of our boat broker will oversee everything for us.  The repairs are minor but need to be done to maintain the pristine appearance that we want for The Bottom Line.  

We never tire of looking out at the water and the many boats that pass us.  I have read three books on this trip and have begun another.  David has completed numerous work projects and read manuals for the electronics on the boat.  Cable TV from the marina consists of three very blurry stations.  We have almost abandoned any attempt to watch more than the nightly news so we are out of touch with current events.  Sometimes that is not bad!

JULY 12-JULY 13     Beaufort, North Carolina

The short distance to Beaufort was made even more beautiful by the sunshine and a bright blue sky filled with fluffy cumulus clouds.  Hundreds of boaters and anglers were taking advantage of the weather.  Again, the coastline was dotted with condos and a mixture of homes, modest and palatial.

Most of the homes were made of wood and reflected the cottage style of the Carolinian coast with wide, welcoming porches, white facades, and dark green shutters.  Crepe Myrtles, white, pink, and red, and hydrangeas, filled with huge blooms, sharply contrasted with the stark white of the homes.  Beaufort Docks proved to be the perfect place for us to take a break from the ICW.  The town of Beaufort is the third oldest in North Carolina and rich in historically designated homes and buildings.  We were located in the active part of the downtown area and could easily walk to restaurants, shops, and local attractions.

We took the courtesy car and went to the recommended grocery store, a large Piggly Wiggly about a mile from the dock.  It was time to re-provision and we were glad to have a car to carry our purchases.  I had not been in a Piggly Wiggly since the late fifties when we lived in San Antonio.  Apparently, that chain is no longer present in Texas but it is widespread throughout the states we have visited the meat market—fat back, chicken feet, pig feet, pigtails, and chicken hearts.  There were boxes of grits in at least ten possible combinations, cheese, red bean and gravy, etc.

We returned to the boat, showered, rested, and then sat on the bow of the boat in the cool evening breeze to enjoy the changing scene of multiple boats coming through the harbor and the music emanating from the neighboring restaurants. We loved being there and being a part of it.

Monday was a workday. David spent the afternoon finishing a work project and I completed the curtains in the master stateroom. We rewarded ourselves with a long evening on the bow enjoying the scene around us and the lovely guitar music from the dock restaurant.  Dinner was a fresh fish, caught this morning and purchased at a nearby seafood market.  It was fine dining at its best.

July 11             Swansboro, North Carolina

We left Wilmington before nine on this Saturday morning and noted that the slight rain had not kept a crowd from gathering on the boardwalk to hear a speaker who was probably one of the local political candidates.  We soon reached the point where we would leave the Cape Fear River and once again join the ICW. We had to follow a very narrow channel, fortunately well marked across a bay that was dangerously shallow, and then pass a shoaled entrance into Snow Cut, which led to the open expanse of the ICW that once again bordered the Atlantic.  This waterway was wide and exceedingly busy with a myriad of boats loaded with fishermen, teenagers, families, and parents pulling water toys carrying excited children. We were constantly slowing to keep from swamping the water toys with our wake. Hundreds of condominiums and homes lined the ICW and gave us an indication of how popular this region is with vacationers and winter residents.  We were surprised that North Carolina had such an active coast life. We planned to reach Swansboro, our chosen destination, before six o’clock in order to have docking assistance.  Anticipating no problems, we were soon dismayed when we reached the Wrightsville Bridge only five minutes past the hour and were curtly told that the next opening would be at the top of the next hour.  No Florida and Georgia courtesy here!  Unable to moor to any adjacent dolphins (not the fish, the large pilings) as we could have in the Netherlands when we waited for bridge operators to return from lunch on their bicycles, we used the bow thruster to its greatest advantage, ate lunch, and observed the dock scenes of boaters and diners in nearby restaurants. 

Realizing that the next two bridges had similar time restrictions, we plotted our journey as carefully as possible to avoid a similar delay.  We made the next bridge with two minutes to spare but the second one was a challenge.  Despite running for fifteen minutes at top speed (burning sixty gallons an hour), we sadly concluded that we were not going to make the opening at the top of the hour.  To our surprise and delight, a voice marked by a distinctly North Carolinian drawl came through the VHF radio and identified himself as the bridge master and stated that he had witnessed our effort to reach the bridge and would delay the opening for a few minutes in order for us to make it through.  We were grateful to avoid the dreaded wait if we had missed the opening and I blew him kisses when we passed through the opening. 

Confident that we were on the way without further delay, we again were dismayed when we saw frequent lightening in the distance, which became increasingly nearer.  The weather forecasts were consistently predicting no rain but we soon experienced a torrential downpour that impeded vision and progress.  Again, I was grateful that we had bought a boat that was heavy and stable in such turbulence.  Knowing that we probably would be delayed in our arrival at Swansboro, I was reaching for my phone when I received a call from the marina.  They were willing to wait for us.  Southern hospitality at its best!  We arrived about ten minutes before six but could not dock because of the lightening in the area.  Finally we had a break and two charming boys came to help us dock.  The rain stopped at that moment and the sky cleared to provide a beautiful sunset.  After docking, I walked the few blocks to downtown Swansboro and visited its small historical district of old shops and homes.  With luck, I found the only shop selling wine.  They had a clearance on their stock and had only fifteen bottles in inventory.  Fortunately, I found two bottles of Sauvignon Blanc that proved to be excellent.  Wine and dinner on the boat with a good DVD movie was a happy conclusion to a very busy day.

July 9 and July 10    Wilmington, North Carolina

The route to Wilmington was through long stretches of pristine marshes with frequent views of the Atlantic.  Sandy beaches became much more frequent on the ocean side of the ICW.  Cormorants, a common species of sea bird that varies considerably in size and coloring, were often seen diving headfirst into the water and emerging with a quick shake of their heads, indicating they had swallowed the fish that had been their unfortunate prey.  We have seen very few sea gulls since leaving Florida.  Osprey, cormorants, and egrets seem to be the most dominant birds in this area.  To reach Wilmington, we had to leave the ICW and travel on the Cape Fear River.  The route was wide and deep enough for the many tankers that follow it to the Port of Wilmington.  Approaching the city, we went under an elevator bridge, the first we had seen since we cruised from Rotterdam to Gouda in the Netherlands.  Immediately to port was the magnificent battleship, North Carolina, the most highly decorated naval vessel of WWII.  It was saved from becoming scrap by a concerted campaign funded by corporations, citizens, and the schoolchildren of North Carolina and is a major source of pride for Wilmington residents. 

We docked on the city docks immediately in front of the Hilton Hotel and adjacent to the boardwalk in downtown Wilmington. After resting, we walked the few blocks to the main part of the renovated downtown area with its many shops, restaurants, and bars.  It was definitely a happening place with folks of all ages, sizes, and descriptions strolling about.  Following a recommendation, we had dinner at Circa 1922.  The crabmeat cheesecake, a house specialty was outstanding. 

The following morning, we rode our bikes through the historical district and admired the many older homes that had been lovingly maintained and/or restored.  The wealth and importance of the city was immediately evident in the architecture and abundance of lovely homes and churches.  David had need of a prescription so we decided to ride our bikes the 2.7 miles to the nearest Walgreen’s.  The ride was relatively easy but the temperature and humidity had soared by the time we made the return trip to the downtown area.  When we stopped for lunch, I was almost overcome by the heat and effort.  With frequent compresses of iced water to my face, I finally regained my composure.

David, who had been worrying about his stamina before we left Fort Worth, was not even tired after our almost six-mile bike trip.  The exercise of the past week had apparently been very beneficial for him. Following lunch, we locked our bikes and took a trolley ride to see and learn more about Wilmington.  Although it is not Charleston, Wilmington has its own considerable claim to historical significance, Southern charm, abundance of notable residents.  Riding our bikes back to The Bottom and Line, we passed through people congregating to hear the music groups playing on the boardwalk and to shop at the small vendors nearby.

July 8                                       Little River, South Carolina

The cool and pleasant weather we have enjoyed for the past week ended today as South Carolina experienced some of the heat wave that is sweeping the Eastern coast from Maine to Florida. Before leaving Georgetown, I rode my bike the short distance to the ATM four blocks away and was almost overcome by the heat.  Fortunately, the AC on the boat works well and we stayed cool and comfortable as we proceeded up the ICW and the Waccamaw River toward the Myrtle Beach area.  The marshlands, which we had traveled through from Beaufort and Charleston, disappeared. We were surrounded by forests of cypress trees sitting atop pedestals of exposed roots sunk into the mud of the riverbanks.  Often the waterways were twisted and narrow.  Fortunately, they were deep and we did not fear becoming grounded.  It was very tranquil and beautiful.  Homes, mostly modest, were frequent and we passed numerous boaters who were fishing, cruising, or indulging in recreational fun. 

A long, straight canal led us through Myrtle Beach. Our route actually paralleled the main street.  In January, we had been there on one of our boat-shopping trips and traveled that street many times.  Today, we saw the “backdoors” as we literally passed behind numerous businesses lining the main street and backing up to the ICW.  We had earlier decided that Myrtle Beach was rather tawdry and commercialized so we passed it by to come too little River.  This area boasts several excellent marinas and reflects some of the Southern charm of South Carolina.  A nearby Italian restaurant was very inviting and we decided to leave the cooking to others this evening.  It was a wise choice.  Although the clientele was casually dressed, Umberto’s had excellent food, good service, and surprisingly sophisticated décor with soft lighting.  A pianist played and sang favorite songs from “our era” and we had a great “date night.” 

July 6-July 7                            Georgetown, South Carolina

As we left Charleston, we saw Fort Sumter, where the first shots of the Civil War were fired.  That tragic event in our country’s history has never been forgotten in Charleston.  There is still anger and resentment about its defeat.  Foolishly, this seems to be true throughout many parts of the South as evidenced by numerous re-enactors, Confederate flags, and stupid political statements.  Our voyage to Georgetown was through waterways bordered by gracious homes and lovely cottages.  After docking at Georgetown Marina, we rode our bikes into town.  We quickly realized that this was the town we had visited in January when we came to South Carolina to look at a boat near Myrtle Beach.  We immediately returned to the great seafood restaurant to experience again their delicious fried oyster sandwiches.  Georgetown was another enclave of beautiful Southern homes on pristine lawns dotted with lush hydrangeas and numerous other flowering plants.  The downtown area had carefully maintained and restored.  We toured several antique stores. One was a destination for designers with affluent clients and filled with opulent furniture and accessories.  The marina was quiet with lovely views of the water and moored boats on the opposite shore.  Dinner on the bridge with a lovely sunset was a perfect ending to a wonderful day.

July 3-July 5                Charleston, South Carolina

We were fortunate to find a slip in the lovely Charleston City Marina, located within blocks of downtown with many conveniences and attractions.  We were on the Megadock with huge yachts that could almost have used The Bottom Line as a dinghy. All of them had crews, young, tanned, agile, and dressed in khakis and monogrammed shirts.  Several had their own dock carts, similar to a golf cart, which bore the names of the yachts.  Charleston presented a wonderful opportunity to ride our bicycles.  We found a lovely place for breakfast, Caviar and Bananas, near the College of Charleston.  It was an upscale deli with interesting and delicious foods.  Everything, of course, was organic.  We discovered Harris Teeter for groceries and fresh seafood.  Located in a former train station, HT was a delightful blend of necessities and specialty items.  We loved browsing their aisles.  On a long bike ride, we discovered Hominy’s, a small restaurant that appeared to be very charming with an interesting Southern menu.  On Sunday, we went there for breakfast and waited in the long line outside until we were given a small table on the patio.  The food was different, Southern (lots of butter, cream, seafood) and delicious. 

The many beautiful homes of Charleston can be observed much better by bicycle than by car and we rode for hours through the quaint neighborhoods admiring the architecture, experiencing the historical ambiance, and understanding why Charleston is regarded as a United States treasure.  The festivities of July Fourth began as darkness descended shortly after 9:15 PM.  Our bridge was an excellent place to see three fireworks displays.  We prepared a delicious steak dinner, fortified our trays with wine, and sat for hours in delightful weather watching the gorgeous display of color over the water and the city.  It was truly one of the best evenings of our lives and an unforgettable experience. On Monday, another legal holiday, presented an opportunity to take a long bike ride around the waterfront and through High Street, with its interesting shops before heading for HT for more supplies.  We spent a long evening on the bridge looking at the water and the city lights as we said a reluctant farewell to Charleston.

June 28-July 2             Beaufort, South Carolina

We flew into Savannah and drove to Beaufort to reunite with   The Bottom Line.  We were eager to return to our beautiful boat and were pleased to see it clean and well maintained.  The antique gold upholstery on the sofa in the salon had been changed to beautiful orange-red tweed that gave a subtle but colorful lift to the décor.  We had engaged an upholsterer in Beaufort and had fabric shipped to him.  The entire matter was negotiated over the phone.  We were very pleased that he did what he said he would do, in the time requested, and at a fair price.  We were also very excited to unbox our new bicycles, two Dahon foldable bikes especially designed for mariners.  The frames are aluminum and the wheels are stainless steel.  They are extremely well crafted and weigh only 25 pounds. 

We gave the bikes a good trial on the following day when we rode for several hours through the historical neighborhoods of Beaufort.  We loved visiting the church cemeteries with graves decorated with American and Confederate flags to denote veterans from each of those armies.  We visited the grave of Robert Small, a Black leader who captured a Confederate boat during the Civil War and turned it over to the Union Forces.  He was rewarded for this with a cash payment sufficient to buy the grand home where he had served as a slave before the war.  He became a state celebrity and schools, streets, and monuments were dedicated to him.  Besides becoming an outstanding business person, he served in local and state political offices.

Beaufort has some outstanding restaurants but we enjoyed Emily’s so much that we returned there a second time.  In addition to regular entrees, they specialize in a long list of tapas.  We utilized the remainder of our time in that lovely town doing some routine maintenance on the boat, riding our bikes, completing some office work, and continuing the re-decorating project for the master stateroom.