August 27                                 Coinjock, North Carolina

Leaving Belhaven, we soon were navigating through the area commonly called “the ditch,” formed by a long narrow channel through shallow water leading into the Alligator River-Pungo River canal.  There were occasional homes and fishing camps but it was mostly trees and grass.  As we were going through a straight channel through shallow waters, David decided he needed a nap and, as he as often done in the past, he set the automatic pilot and left me at the helm while he retired to the salon sofa. 

I watched the GPS, checked the depth indicator, and consulted the charts.  At approximately 10:30 AM, I noticed another boat approaching at a speed greatly in excess of ours.  As it became closer, I started to move nearer the starboard side of the channel to give them ample room to pass us on the port side (the usual procedure for boaters).  As the boat continued to come closer, it was evident that it was not moving to the port side but was heading straight for us.  I was reluctant to move starboard because we could run aground in shallow waters and I did not want to move port because I feared he would correct his course and we would collide.  Instead, I yelled for David who immediately perceived the danger and, without hesitation, turned to port.  The boat continued at high speed and passed starboard across our bow.  We were both very shaken by this act of random and obviously deliberate dangerous abandon.  I turned offer the helm to David and lay down on the sofa.  If I had not been a “big girl,” I think I would have sucked my thumb to give me comfort from such a horrible and unexplainable experience.

Coinjack was actually a small marina and restaurant.  There was NOTHING nearby.  The evening was lovely and we enjoyed sitting on the aft deck and watching a steady stream of people entering the restaurant.  It was very popular with the locals.  The marina and restaurant appeared to be family owned and operated and everything was well-maintained.

 

August 26                                              Belhaven, North Carolina

After David completed some work for the office, we departed shortly before noon. The weather remained sunny and the winds were calm.  It was a beautiful day for cruising.

Belhaven Marina was very basic but it was near downtown. We were told that Belhaven was much larger than Oriental.  Unfortunately, size did not equate to quality.  Hurricane Hugo had damaged Belhaven severely years ago and its economy had never recovered.  There were many empty or deserted buildings in various states of decay.  Most of the active part of the town was located several miles away on the highway.  The place had the appearance of a West Texas town impacted by the oil field bust.  Fortunately, we had plenty of food on board and we did not need provisions or supplies. 

August 25               Oriental, North Carolina

We said goodbye to John Peterson and Jimmy Watts, settled our account at the Grand Marina, and pulled away from the dock only a few minutes before noon.  It was bittersweet to go through the beautiful drawbridge that forms the entrance to New Bern’s harbor but we were excited to once again be on the water.  Our voyage down the Nueces to Oriental was brief.  Following several shrimp boats into the small harbor, we docked at the small and quaint Oriental Marina.  The surrounding grounds and small buildings were pristine. 

We were directly across from the facility where the shrimpers docked and unloaded their catches.  The area had a distinct “fish smell,” which the natives termed as the “smell of money.”  We were reminded that we in Fort Worth use the same expression in referring to the smell of manure that permeates the Cultural District during the Stock Show.  Oriental was a small but lovely village that obviously had carefully guarded their heritage by preserving their older homes and buildings.  Tall, old trees and lush, manicured lawns, with few fences dividing them, surrounded mostly wooden two story homes or large, comfortable cottages.  There were several good antique stores and interesting shops.  We enjoyed an early evening bike ride so much that we repeated it the next morning. 

August 14-August 24                         New Bern, North Carolina

We arrived at the airport in New Bern shortly after ten o’clock and were driven to the marina in the courtesy car of the Hilton.  We were delighted to see the boat and everything seemed in place.  The wall covering in the heads and hall looked wonderful, the freezer on the aft deck was working well, and the A/C in the bow was functioning.  The following day, the workers began to arrive or calling to let us know their plans.  The next days were filled with activity as work was completed and projects began.  Some went extremely well, others were frustratingly mediocre, and all were expensive.

We had several evenings of rain, which usually ended before dawn.  The lovely town of New Bern was even more beautiful with the cooler weather and plenty of water for the plants and flowers.  We took daily bike rides and made occasional visits to the restaurants and shops.  On our anniversary, we invited John Peterson and his wife, Vivian for dinner at the Harvey Mansion Historic Restaurant and Inn near the marina.  To our delight, they arrived with John’s daughter, Michele and her husband, Scott.  We had an excellent dinner and an evening of good conversation.  Vivian a small, trim, and attractive woman, is also a physician. She seemed subdued by her more outgoing husband and his family.  I regretted that I did not have an opportunity to spend more time with her.

On Sunday evening, we invited Jimmy and Tammy Watts to have dinner with us.  We returned to the Harvey Mansion for another delicious dinner.  Jimmy and Tammy were charming and we had a wonderful time talking, laughing, and getting to know each other.  To our delight, they invited us to dinner on Tuesday evening.  We dined at Nickola’s, a small, charming restaurant specializing in Northern Italian cuisine.  The owners are immigrants from Croatia who, like many such newcomers to this country, have worked hard and become successful business owners.  The food was excellent and we had a wonderful evening. 

It is rare to meet new people that become instant friends.  We hope to see the Watts again soon.  Jimmy is one of the most talented men we have met.  He is a welder of composites for the Coast Guard facilities at Cherry Point and is an expert in metal fabrication.  He was able to design and make special attachments for our ladders that will greatly facilitate installation and removal.  He also designed, made, and installed a grab bar above the stairs from the helm area to the galley that will keep others and me from slipping or falling upon descent.

Despite work still incomplete, we were determined to leave as scheluded.  We would find time to do it ourselves, if necessary.  This was not going to be an insurmountable problem!