July 11-16                     Mystic, Connecticut

The crossing of Long Island Sound was quickly accomplished despite the persistent haze which blurred our long range vision.  We headed to Mystic for a visit to its famous Seaport Museum and experience its charming village atmosphere.  Leaving the sound and entering the wide expanse of Mystic Harbor, we were soon winding our way in a narrow channel through hundreds of mooring balls holding small boats.  Seeing ahead of us a massive railroad bridge blocking forward motion, we realized our marina was not in sight and we were confused as to how to proceed.  A call to Seaport Marine confirmed they were just past the bridge, which suddenly began to swing open for us.

Seaport Marine is located only a few blocks from the downtown area with its many shops and restaurants.  When we inquired about long-term rates, we were pleased we could leave our boat here when we left for Boston and home at a much more reasonable rate than we had been previously quoted by several other marinas.  We inquired about transportation to Boston and learned we could easily take the train from Mystic station to the Back Bay area of Boston, near our hotel.  The marina staff was pleasant, the location was easily accessible, and we liked the rate.  We decided to stay in Mystic until Saturday when we would leave for Boston.  The boat would remain here until our return from Texas in early August.  We would use the “down time” to explore Mystic and complete SGA work and boat projects. We had ended our voyage a few days sooner than planned but we were relieved to have found such a good home for the boat during our absence

We were warmly greeted by the attractive residents of the neighboring boat, Maribel and Andrew.  We learned they had a home and family in New Jersey but spent winters in Treasure Cay in the Bahamas and then returned to Mystic for summer.  Their boat, a modified Nauntec 66, made the trip back and forth, a distance of almost 2000 miles.  Since they were both older than we, we were in awe they were still enjoying boating to the extent they preferred to live on one most of the time. They had a car in Mystic so were able to travel about easily.  They joined us on our aft deck for cocktails and we had the opportunity to visit with them.  Both were interesting conversationalists.  The evening ended abruptly when a sudden thunderstorm came over the hill and began to pelt us with rain.

Thursday was sunny and very cool.  A great breeze dispersed any sign of humidity.  We arose early and rode our bikes through town to Mystic Seaport, the wonderful open-air museum celebrating the nautical history of the region.  There were demonstrations of whaling, printing, shipbuilding, cooperage, ropemaking, and early shopkeeping.  Located on the banks of the Mystic River, the museum was actually a reconstructed village with many special displays relating to seafaring life.
The massive whaling vessel, The Charles W. Morgan, long the centerpiece of the museum, was in drydock undergoing extensive restoration.  The entire process was being carefully executed to correspond with original construction materials and techniques.  The lumber yard displayed trees that were being planed and sawed for use in the project.  It was fascinating to see the enormous extent of the effort to save this great vessel, the last of more than 177 registered whaling ships in the United States.

After lunch on the boat, I rode back to town and visited The Needlepoint Nook.  This lovely little shop proved to be the solution for thread needed to complete a project.  The proprietor was friendly, helpful, and generous in supplying my needs. The streets and sidewalks were packed with cars and pedestrians.  Mystic is one of Connecticut's most popular summer destinations and the cool weather was enticing everyone to be outdoors.

David, to my amazement, had alone managed to bring down the dinghy without any problems.  We enjoyed a delightful cruise through the downtown bridge into the inner harbor of Mystic, viewing the lovely antebellum homes and the Seaport Museum buildings.   Returning to the boat, David brought in the dinghy and secured it without any help.  I was impressed (as were our neighbors who viewed the entire operation with considerable apprehension from their bridge).

There is a pair of mute swans in a large nest on a small island of marsh grasses in front of the boat.  We have learned that this breed of swans live in salt water environments and feed on seaweed.  Andrew told us he believes they are very dumb for they placed their nest in a place where a high tide swamped it and washed away their seven eggs.  Despite his efforts to save the eggs and incubate them, they failed to hatch.  That explained why we saw no cygnets,   Baby ducks were eveywhere--perhaps ducks were more knowledgeable of tides than swans.

Andrew greeted us promptly at 8:30 to take us the short distance to the train station.  We were very grateful for the assistance.  Maribel was kind enough to wave goodbye and promise to look after our boat.  The train arrived as acheduled and we were soon seated and heading to Boston.  As always, we hated to leave The Bottom Line and were soon planning our return.

July 9-10             Greenport, New York

Realizing we needed to cover more distance than originally planned, we bypassed Port Jefferson and headed for Greenport, within the “fishtail” at the end of Long Island.  This small village is a popular boater’s destination with many renowned restaurants, lovely homes,  and excellent shops.  Most of the homes are nineteenth and early twentieth century, two story with gingerbread trim and wide welcoming porches. 

We docked at Mitchell Park Marina, adjacent to Main Street and the hub of activity for boaters and tourists.  We were surrounded by a small group of large yachts and fishing boats. A quick walk through the village located a grocery store and we were able to re-provision.  Such easy proximity to a grocery store is rare for most marinas.  Returning to the boat, we ate a light dinner on the aft deck and watched the crowded scene at Claudio’s dock, a crab bar, across from us.

Sundays are special time in most towns—the traffic is less and bike riding is easier.  Greenport on Sunday was still active with boats and people.  We were able to take a long bike ride by avoiding the streets nearest the dock.  As with Cape May, the lawns were beautiful with huge bushes of blooming hydrangeas and many other flowers. Everything was lush and green—a reminder of the sorrowful state of my plants at home, withering in the intense heat of a Texas summer.

Dinner was at The Frisky Oyster, a casually elegant restaurant with a limited menu but serving excellent food.  Our first choice, Claudio’s, locally renowned for its excellent seafood and for being the oldest same family-owned restaurant in the United States, was crowded and a line was waiting.  We opted for a quieter venue and were not disappointed.  David dined on oysters and I had a wonderful black bass with shitake mushroom risotto. 

                                                                                           

                                                                                                                

July 7-8               Oyster Bay, New York

After waving a final good-bye to the beautiful Lady of the Harbor, we, once again, cruised under the bridges  and headed up the East River, passing without incident through Hell’s Gate with its swirling eddies, past Riker’s Island, and finally under the great Throgs (what in the heck is a throg?) Neck Bridge into Long Island Sound. The weather was sunny and pleasant—a perfect day to be on the water.

Since our good friends, the Leones had lived on the North Shore of Long Island, we had spent considerable time in that area and were familiar with the names on the chart as we cruised towards Oyster Bay.  This lovely little village is nestled among some of the most affluent residential areas on Long Island.  The surrounding hills are dotted with palatial homes and grand old estates.  Oyster Bay was the family home of Theodore Roosevelt and his house and grounds are now a National Park.  We have visited it on several occasions and always enjoyed the experience.

Centre Island is across from Oyster Bay Harbor and the lovely old Sagamore Yacht Club, located on its southern tip, greets boaters as they enter.  Centre Island is an enclave of “old money” and lovely homes on expansive and expensive real estate.  We were delighted to recognize one of the largest and most beautiful residences, built by friends, successful home contractors, for a wealthy family.  We had toured the house a short time before it was completed and were stunned by its size and expense.  The slate roof was imported from Ireland and had the lovely patina that only age can impart. Interior floors and many walls were rare hardwoods and special craftsmen were required for their installation.  As we viewed it from the boat many years later, the home was even more impressive with the gorgeous landscaping that surrounded it.

The Oyster Bay Marine Center was reached after cruising a serpentine route around the many mooring balls with small sailing vessels attached.  As we approached, we saw several boats harvesting oysters (they are so plentiful in the bay that one restaurant in town provides them without charge at happy hour each evening).  We docked at the pier and were amazed by the constant activity around us as boaters continually were enroute or departing from their boats.  I spent the afternoon cleaning and finishing many loads of laundry.  Dinner was light fare on deck.

We were excited that the following day, our friends, Jean Leone, her daughter, Jackie, and Eddie Barreta had agreed to visit us on the boat and then go to dinner in Oyster Bay.  As predicted, the day began cloudy but  rain was delayed until later in the afternoon. 

David had computer problems and Dell had agreed to send a repair person to the boat. (This service is part of SGA’s contact with Dell). While he waited, I rode my bike into town, completed some shopping, and indulged in a great pastrami sandwich at a local deli.  The repair person came as promised, installed a new motherboard, and David’s computer was good as new.  He rode his bike into town, got a haircut, bought wine, and returned to the boat just before the rain began.

Our guests arrived shortly after 6:00 PM and gamely trudged through the rain down the gangplank and across the dock to the boat.  We were overjoyed to see Jean and Jackie after almost ten years and to meet Eddie, Jackie’s longtime companion.  He proved to be a delight, very intelligent, easy to talk to, and possessing a great sense of humor.  Jean and Jackie were as slender and lovely as ever.  We were thrilled to see them again.

Dinner was at Wild Honey, a lovely local restaurant with the ambiance of a restored interior reflecting a nineteenth century era.  The food was outstanding and the service was attentive.   It was a good dining choice.  The rain had stopped and our guests agreed to return to the boat for an after dinner drink.  We were delighted to have this extra time with them.  Eddie promised he would someday bring Jean and Jackie to visit us in Texas.

July 5-6            Jersey City, New Jersey/New York, New York

Dave, Blake, and Amanda were scheduled to depart for home on an early evening flight.  Amanda and Dave were eager to go once more into the city for shopping and were headed toward the ferry before ten o’clock.  Blake and I planned to ride bikes to Ellis Island, located only a short distance across the park.  Gloria and Suzanne would go to Soho and visit art galleries. David would wait at the boat for the promised visit from Tom, the AC repairman, who would look at the compressor for the middle stateroom, and work on SGA projects.

Blake and I reached the bridge to Ellis Island but were stopped before entering.  We had to return to the ferry terminal and take a ferry.  This was an additional $23.00 charge and an inconvenience, but we had no choice. 

Ellis Island only partially has been restored.  The main building is almost finished but adjacent ones are still in disrepair.  The audio tour, with the stories of immigrants who were processed here, is interesting and poignant.  Their excitement to be reunited with family or their sorrow in being separated from one who is denied entrance becomes very real to the listener.  They presented varying views of their treatment by the immigration and medical staff—some reported kindness and consideration, others described brusqueness and indifference.  The entire experience must have been frightening and intimidating for those poor folks who had endured days in cramped quarters and knew they faced the possibility of being detained for long periods or, even worse, returned to their country of origin.

We all gathered on board for a late lunch before Dave, Amanda, and Blake departed.  It was difficult to realize that our long awaited weekend together on the boat in New York was ending.  Suzanne had returned from Soho in a state of euphoria with a photograph of her purchase.  She had bought a limited edition woodblock print by Salvator Dali, which was being framed and shipped to Oakland.  It was from his Dante’s Divine Comedy series and represented Purgatory.  She could talk of nothing else for hours!!

On Wednesday, the girls and I rode the little ferry ($1.00 fare to Jersey City and only two minutes from the marina) to the lovely area across from the marina entrance where there was limited shopping, churches, schools, and a large area of residential buildings.  We quickly found a salon with stylists were available to cut my and Gloria’s hair.  Departing thirty minutes later, and very pleased with our new coifs, we walked through the area, admiring the lovely old brownstones and historic churches.

Following another late lunch, the girls caught the ferry to New York ($7.00 and a ten minute ride across the Hudson to the Financial District) to catch a taxi to Kennedy Airport.  They had decided this would save the extra fees they had to pay coming in when they had to go through the tunnel to New Jersey.  Since she had spent a considerable amount for her art work, Suzanne was now indulging in frugality!

David and Tom had determined on the previous day that a new compressor would have to be ordered to replace the old one in the middle stateroom.  We would not wait for it since its loss did not inconvenience us.  The others compensated well and the boat was cool and pleasant.  We would replace it in the Fall.  The stabilizers were not functioning well and another repairman had been summoned for that project.  He left after six o’clock and the problem had been resolved.  We should be ready to leave for Long Island on the following day. 

The kids had been wonderful guests.  All had been considerate, helpful, respectful, and caring.  Above all, they had been fun and easy to entertain.  It had been a memorable, wonderful time together.  They were quickly missed.

July 4                          Jersey City, New Jersey/New York, New York

A haze continued to blur the view of the city, but patches of blue sky were evident when we gathered on the aft deck for a late breakfast.  There was a definite change in the activity level on the boats around us—people were rapidly coming into the marina and boarding, coolers and grills were assembled on the dock, and preparations were made to enjoy a lovely day.

We departed from the dock, with Dave again at the helm, and followed the Statue Cruise ferry past Ellis Island and the Statue of Liberty.  The photographers on board were eager to get some close pictures of both landmarks.  The Hudson was churning with many boats and ferries, all crowded with people..  We stayed briefly in that area before turning to enter the East River and head northward.

Suddenly, the haze disappeared, a brilliant, cloudless blue sky emerged, a slight breeze dissipated the humidity, and the weather was perfect.  With unabashed excitement, we cruised beneath the Brooklyn Bridge, the Manhattan Bridge, the Triborough Bridge, and the Staten Island Tram, noting famed and familiar sights along the way.  The monolithic United Nations Building appeared to be in the process of restoration with most of the windows covered and scaffolding surrounding some of the exterior.  A large white party tent was on the lawn of Gracie Mansion, the traditional home of the Mayor of New York City (although Bloomberg, a multi-billionaire declined to live there).  Lining both sides of the East River were small green spaces where people were gathered, sunning on the grass, playing games, and setting up grills for cookouts.  It was truly an American holiday sight and very affirming that this country retains values and traditions that continue to unite us as a nation.

Leaving the main branch of the East River, we passed through Hell's Gate to Flushing Bay for a view of Rikers Island.  As all of us are avid Law and Order fans, this was a highlight!  Rikers figures prominently in many episodes of that TV show (which was being shown in marathon format throughout the Fourth of July holiday).  Long, white buses were parked near the huge, gray jail facility and Blake was excited to see one actually transporting prisoners. 

Returning to the dock shortly before 4:00 PM, we had a light lunch of cold boiled shrimp, showered, and completed decorating the boat with flags and garland. Suzanne and Gloria joined many other bicyclists in the park.  We had a great “people-watching” position as the trail next to the dock was a scene of constant activity with walkers, bikers, dogs, and strollers.  Everyone seemed to be in a happy, celebratory mood.  The large open green space between the marina and the Hudson was rapidly filling with people claiming places for viewing the fireworks.  Elaborate picnics and family groups were everywhere.  Both restaurants on the property were hosting weddings.  Tuxedos and formal gowns were mingling with shorts and flip-flops along the trail as everyone wanted to see the many boats entering and leaving the marina harbor.

Dinner was All-American fare, hamburgers and hot dogs cooked on the grill, accompanied by  corn on the cob, dripping with butter. The fireworks began at 9:20 and the kids opted to walk down to the Hudson for a better view.  David and I were happy to sit quietly on the bridge and enjoy the largest displays of color, clearly visible over the tops of the buildings.  It was a special time of contentment and gratitude.

The kids returned with praise for the spectacular fireworks display, made even more so by the added  illumination of the water and the glass buildings on both shores. We all gathered on the bridge to enjoy warm apricot and cherry cobbler as we watched the lines of cars leaving the area and the flotilla of boats returning to the marina.  The last boat to come back was a large yacht, probably more than 100 feet in length, rocking with a DJ playing loud, raucous music, a group of teenagers dancing on the upper deck, and an assortment of adults (hopefully parents) on the lower decks.  The music continued until midnight when some of the guests departed in a very long, white limousine.  We were impressed but all agreed to keep this information secret from Kennedy who will probably insist on emulating the entire affair for a future birthday bash!  The evening concluded after 1:00 AM when we reluctantly left the bridge for bed.

July 2-July 3                Jersey City, New Jersey/New York, New York

As usual, Suzanne announced her presence with full expectation of being the center of attention!  We were expecting her arrival sometime before nine.  She was at the door of the boat at 7:00 AM. and showing no fatigue from her long “red-eye” flight from San Francisco.  Gloria was less exuberant.  Everyone had arrived safely and we were ready to begin the holiday festivities.

The weather was sunny and pleasant.  We would cruise up the Hudson River and I would accomplish another “bucket list” item:  sailing beneath the George Washington Bridge on my own boat. David had promised that someday we would do this and today would be the day.

After leaving the dock, Dave, who was once certified to captain 100 ton vessels, took the helm and expertly took us out of the harbor, into the channel, and up the river.  Cruising between the west side of Manhattan and the eastern shore of New Jersey, we tried to identify famed and familiar places.  Blake was delighted to be traveling through the same place where the US Airways plane landed in the water several years ago and the passengers were saved by the heroic efforts of the crew and others.  We admired the beauty of Grant’s Tomb, the majesty of Riverside Church, and the serenity of The Cloisters, overlooking the Palisades on the opposite shore. 

David honked our horn and I posed on the bow for a commemorative photograph as we passed under the George Washington Bridge.  I pointed out the small red lighthouse beneath the bridge, the subject of a classic children’s book detailing its history from pre-bridge days when it served as an important beacon, to abandonment, and finally, restoration.  Today, it is pristine and a popular place for schoolchildren visits.

Using the grill on our bridge, David cooked steaks, brought from Costco in Fort Worth.  They were outstanding and we stayed on the aft deck until well past midnight enjoying the happy experience of being together.

On Sunday morning, we were awakened by heavy rain (always welcome because it thoroughly washes the salt from the boat).  The fog was heavy.  Everyone slept late and then finally gathered on the aft deck for a special breakfast of egg casserole, fresh fruit, bacon, and pork scallopine.  Dave, Blake, Gloria, and Amanda decided to visit Brooklyn, a place none had been before, to find the Surf Bar and Restaurant, highly recommended by Stephanie.  David, Suzanne, and I enjoyed the coziness of the boat and watching old movies on television.  Napping was also a great rainy day option.

After 6:00 PM, the adventurers returned with stories of the Surf Bar, Coney Island, and Whole Foods Market. To maximize their time, they had traveled by ferry, subway, and cab.  The Whole Foods Market was apparently as popular in Manhattan as it is in Austin (and as well-stocked).  This one, however, had a large delivery service that processed orders from residents who preferred the convenience of shopping by telephone.

Dinner was at Marineparc, the casually sophisticated restaurant at the marina.  Its contemporary décor was perfect for our group and the service was exceptional.  Amanda was so delighted with her raw oyster appetizer that she ordered another and everyone gave their food high praise for taste and presentation.

June 30-July 1              Jersey City, New Jersey, New York, New York

Tom, the AC repairman, was promptly on board shortly after 9:00 AM.  He quickly affirmed Michael’s diagnosis that our compressor was not functioning properly and called for additional help to remove it and help install the new one.  As promised, the new part was delivered, soon installed, and then the really hard work began.  Boats are complex and difficult to re-wire and Tom and his assistant worked tirelessly for more than 10 hours before the job was successfully completed. They had other work the following day in a different location and were determined to give us a cool salon before departing.  After leaving the boat, shortly past 7:00 PM, they opted to go to the marina restaurant.  David followed and gave them money for dinner and drinks to express our gratitude.  We were delighted with their excellent service.  Tom was a great person, personable, bright, informative, and highly recommended for his exceptional skills. He brought with him his beautiful black and white Sheltie, a rescue dog who adoringly watched his every move from the lawn across from the boat.

The following morning, we completed preparations for the arrival of the family and planned our trip to the grocery store about a mile away.  David modified the handle of our little blue dock cart so it would fit onto the back of my bicycle.  It was a makeshift affair but worked beautifully and would facilitate transport of more goods than could be carried on the back racks of the bikes.  The bike trail led to a small bridge over the water to downtown Jersey City and we easily found our destination.  The neighborhood was definitely ethnic but we were pleased with the store and filled our cart and our back rack bags.  We were a sight returning to the boat!  We would probably have embarrassed our children if they had seen us.

Tired, hot, and ready for a shower, we quickly disposed of the groceries, showered, napped, and had a delightful “happy hour” on the bridge before starting dinner for Blake, Amanda, and Dave, who would arrive shortly after 9:00 PM.  David planned to make a special Italian sausage and pasta dish that he had enjoyed for lunch at Liberty Point, the other restaurant at the marina.  Convinced he had guessed correctly the ingredients, he was determined to duplicate it.  If anything, he actually improved on the original!

With a slight flight delay and a taxi driver who did not have a GPS, the kids finally arrived at 10:30 PM.  It was great to see them! They were overcome by the boat, the marina, the view of the city, and the great weather.  After 100 plus degrees for days in Texas, they were ready for cooler climes.  We ate, talked, laughed, and stayed on the aft deck basking in the cool breeze off the water until 2:00 AM.

June 30-July 1              Jersey City, New Jersey, New York, New York

Tom, the AC repairman, was promptly on board shortly after 9:00 AM.  He quickly affirmed Michael’s diagnosis that our compressor was not functioning properly and called for additional help to remove it and help install the new one.  As promised, the new part was delivered, soon installed, and then the really hard work began.  Boats are complex and difficult to re-wire and Tom and his assistant worked tirelessly for more than 10 hours before the job was successfully completed. They had other work the following day in a different location and were determined to give us a cool salon before departing.  After leaving the boat, shortly past 7:00 PM, they opted to go to the marina restaurant.  David followed and gave them money for dinner and drinks to express our gratitude.  We were delighted with their excellent service.  Tom was a great person, personable, bright, informative, and highly recommended for his exceptional skills. He brought with him his beautiful black and white Sheltie, a rescue dog who adoringly watched his every move from the lawn across from the boat.

The following morning, we completed preparations for the arrival of the family and planned our trip to the grocery store about a mile away.  David modified the handle of our little blue dock cart so it would fit onto the back of my bicycle.  It was a makeshift affair but worked beautifully and would facilitate transport of more goods than could be carried on the back racks of the bikes.  The bike trail led to a small bridge over the water to downtown Jersey City and we easily found our destination.  The neighborhood was definitely ethnic but we were pleased with the store and filled our cart and our back rack bags.  We were a sight returning to the boat!  We would probably have embarrassed our children if they had seen us.

Tired, hot, and ready for a shower, we quickly disposed of the groceries, showered, napped, and had a delightful “happy hour” on the bridge before starting dinner for Blake, Amanda, and Dave, who would arrive shortly after 9:00 PM.  David planned to make a special Italian sausage and pasta dish that he had enjoyed for lunch at Liberty Point, the other restaurant at the marina.  Convinced he had guessed correctly the ingredients, he was determined to duplicate it.  If anything, he actually improved on the original!

With a slight flight delay and a taxi driver who did not have a GPS, the kids finally arrived at 10:30 PM.  It was great to see them! They were overcome by the boat, the marina, the view of the city, and the great weather.  After 100 plus degrees for days in Texas, they were ready for cooler climes.  We ate, talked, laughed, and stayed on the aft deck basking in the cool breeze off the water until 2:00 AM.

June 29                         Jersey City, New Jersey/New York, New York

Preparing to depart, we noted that Miracle, John Jaran’s boat was docked near us.  David had the opportunity to briefly talk with him.  His lovely wife, Joy took off our stern line and waved goodbye as we moved away from the marina. We had a long trip ahead of us.  New York harbor was 87 miles from Atlantic City.  We left early to be sure we would arrive before dusk.

Ignoring the recommended route on the chart, we chose to go to the three mile limit in order to have smoother water for cruising.   This was a wise decision as we were able to make good speed and save fuel.  It was a slow day for boats on the ocean.  We saw only a few tankers and fishing vessels.

Enroute we received a telephone call from the AC repair person who gave us the incredible news that he maintained a shop and staff at Liberty Landing Marina, our destination, and our part was scheduled to arrive the next day.  Someone would be at our boat the next morning to install the part.  He was as amazed as we that (1) the part was in stock and (2) it would be shipped from a warehouse in the New York area.  He told us that some of his customers waited weeks and often months for replacement parts.

The enormous Verrazano Bridge, spanning The Narrows, a waterway between Staten Island and Brooklyn, was a welcome sight.  We were now in New York harbor and were soon seeing the familiar sights and buildings in Lower Manhattan.  Focusing on charts and GPS, we were startled to realize we had reached the Statue of Liberty.  Our marina was only a few hundred yards past.  We arrived at the dock minutes before 7:00 PM.

Liberty Landing Marina is a wonderful facility.  With docks for 200 boats, it is located across the Hudson River from Manhattan in Jersey City, New Jersey.  It has a great staff, a good ship’s store, and frequent ferry service across the river.  We were docked next to the bike trail and the park.  It was scenic and quiet.  We could look south and have a great view of Ellis Island the the Statue of Liberty.  A constant parade of cyclists and walkers, most with children or dogs, passed beside our boat.

Weary from our long day, we chose to have dinner at Maripark, the lovely restaurant at the marina.  Everything was excellent but David had a carpaccio salad that was prize-winning.  Made of thinly sliced flute, a delicate white fish, marinated in citrus juices, garnished with tiny bits of grapefruit, tiny slices of red seedless grapes, and a scattering of minced leeks, it was outstanding!