August 22-24 Fairhaven, Massachusetts
David departed early for Boston and then on to Texas. I enjoyed breakfast on the aft deck and looking across the harbor at the lovely homes hugging the shore. I was eager to see more of Fairhaven but decided to take care of other matters first. With internet connections, I am able to receive notice of bills due and pay them online. I also needed to correspond with friends.
The boat badly needed washing by a professional with the tools and ability to reach areas I could not. I walked to the dock office and left word to have such a person contact me. Steve Tucker arrived shortly after lunch and immediately began working. It quickly was apparent that he knew how to wash large boats. I learned a lot from watching him. Five hours later he stopped but promised to return the next day and finish the job. He started again before nine the next morning and worked another five hours. The boat sparkled when he finished. It was great to meet someone who really took pride in their work, charged a fair price, and did what was expected.
Tuesday was a lovely cool day and I rode my bicycle around the neighborhood before stopping at the small Visitors Center in the downtown area. I was just in time for the daily tour and the only person present. My guide, a young volunteer, was very knowledgeable and articulate. We took an hour and half walking tour of the buildings and sites related to Henry Huddleston Rogers. Mr. Rogers, a Fairhaven native, who returned to live there after amassing an enormous fortune as an executive with Standard Oil, was extraordinarily generous with his hometown. His favorite architect, Charles Brigham was not bound by budgets. He had carte blanche to spend funds for expensive design and details that makes Fairhaven a destination for architectural buffs.
Rogers Elementary School was built in 1885, electrified in 1890, and is still in use today. It is French Gothic in design and when it was built, incorporated the latest features in education. The Millicent Library, an Italian Renaissance style structure with large stained glass windows and terracotta reliefs referencing literature and science, was named for Rogers’ deceased daughter and dedicated by his friend, Mark Twain. The massive Town Hall (1894) is built of red granite in French Gothic style and still houses many municipal offices. The interior features beautiful oak paneling, solid brass fixtures, and leaded stained glass windows. The magnificent auditorium on the second floor has been the scene of many meetings and events including appearances by Mark Twain. All were gifts from Henry Huddleston Rogers. In addition, he was responsible for the construction of a Masonic Temple, a large Tudor style hotel, presently a nursing home, and a beautiful park in an area where once existed a stagnant pond.
Rogers, who had a high regard for education, gave Fairhaven a magnificent high school, still in use, which is an architectural triumph. Opened in 1906, the school is of Elizabethan design with spires, leaded glass windows, marble floors, oak paneling, and stained glass. It incorporated the latest in educational innovations and included the nation’s first indoor basketball court.
Our tour included walking through the grounds of Rogers’ most expensive and impressive gift to Fairhaven, the Unitarian Memorial Church. With a 165 foot spire, this English Gothic cathedral-style building is a landmark to everyone in the area. Built of gray granite from a local ledge, it is ornamented with carved stone figures and images. The magnificent bronze doors are beautifully detailed and held multiple depictions of prominent figures in science and religion. I noted a tour of the interior was available on Thursday and I immediately made plans to attend.
The weather on Wednesday was exceptionally beautiful. I enjoyed a lengthy bike ride through the neighborhoods and Fort Phoenix State Park, bordering the bay. Many homes bore plaques indicating they were built in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. Most were spacious structures with beautiful cornices, moldings, and other architectural details that reflected the wealth of their owners. As most of the homes were wood, they are today covered in vinyl siding, giving the exteriors an appearance of having been newly painted. The lawns were mostly unfenced and landscaped with masses of impatiens, lilacs, hydrangeas, and hollyhocks. Returning to the downtown area, I perused a needlework shop and a gift shop before having lunch at Pumpernickel’s, a local favorite. Everyone I met was friendly and helpful. Again, I realized how fortunate we were to have come to Fairhaven.