September 8-9                                 Mystic, Connecticut

Our last day of cruising began with rain and fog.  Confident it would soon change, David departed Newport harbor on schedule—shortly before 9:00 AM.  The waves were choppy and visibility was very limited.  With radar scanning, he and Joe continued on course.  As they predicted, the rain lessened, the fog lifted, and the waves calmed.  Within two hours, the sky was blue and we were having a great day for cruising to Mystic.

We docked at our familiar slip next to Andrew and Maribel Colson’s boat.  The huge bronze frog and neon palm tree were missing from the aft deck—a sign they were not onboard.  Everyone quickly ate lunch and went to the downtown area to peruse the shops and admire the quaint buildings and homes.  Blake and David took a taxi to Groton to pick up the minivan we had rented for our trip to the airport the following day.

The scene from the aft deck was less busy than on our previous visit but the boat traffic on Mystic River continued to enthrall everyone.  To our astonishment, the Double Eagle returned to dock next to us.  This was the large yacht that had been our neighbor for several days in this marina before we departed for Martha’s Vineyard.

We planned a dinner of fried fish (using the fish purchased the day before in Newport) and elaborate preparations took place to do the job on the bridge.  Joe’s Dairy Queen experience and expertise proved valuable as we cooked large quantities of flounder and sea bass in my small deep fryer.  It was done to perfection and every bite was eaten with gusto.  Joe is a great guest as he is very competent and helps with any task without being asked.  Having him on the boat gave me much more free time.  He was eager to put out lines, plan routes on the GPS, and pilot the boat in addition to anything else needed. 

The following morning was spent cleaning and packing for our departure.  I prepared a brunch from “everything left in the refrigerator,” which turned out to be quite tasty.  The weather was lovely and everyone was reluctant to leave.  We all agreed that our Labor Day weekend together had been wonderful.  Hopefully, we can do a similar trip again next year.

September 6-7                      Newport, Rhode Island

Morning presented a significant challenge:  The tide was low and the boat was now four feet below the fixed dock.  David had realized when securing the lines that this would occur and had wisely adjusted the lines to accommodate such a drastic change.  Joe wanted to somehow climb up onto the dock but realized this was not a wise move.  He could easily slip and fall between the boat and dock and if he had been successful, he would not have been able to get back onto the boat.  They called the dockhand who came through the pouring rain to help us cast off.

Shortly after passing through the hurricane barrier, the rain ceased and we had good weather for our trip to Newport.  We docked at the Newport Yacht Club to a very different scene than that of several weeks ago.  Labor Day had ended the summer crowds and drizzling rain was keeping Newport inhabitants off the streets.  The town seemed almost deserted.  We walked several blocks to the Visitors Center  and boarded  a trolley for an overview tour to acquaint the kids with the history and sights of the area.

Dinner was at The White Horse Tavern and was once again an exceptional dining experience.  The restaurant was uncrowded and we had excellent service and food.  Seated in a small private dining area, we enjoyed an intimate family occasion with an abundance of laughter and good conversation.

The following morning was a flurry of activity as everyone arose early to prepare for a busy day of sightseeing.  To maximize our time, Stephanie and Blake rented a car and with it we (David remained on the boat to work) were at The Breakers before 10:00 AM. Although I had twice been to this fabulous Vanderbilt “summer cottage,” I was as awed as the others by the opulence and magnificence of the house and its furnishings.  It is truly “what God would do if He had the money.”  The audio tour was very good and allowed us to leisurely see the many rooms on the tour.

After exiting the house, I returned to the boat with Joe and the others continued on their mission to see as many mansions as possible before closing time. Joe and David walked to an area where fishing boats dock.  They talked to an incoming lobsterman, who was off-loading his pots, and were sold sea bass and flounder that had been inadvertently caught with the lobsters.  To their surprise, he threw in fourteen crabs.  David paid thirty dollars for the entire catch.

When Joe and David returned to the boat, the hard work began.  They had to clean the fish (neither had done this task for years) and fillet them.  I had to find a recipe for cleaning and cooking crabs.  The internet was a valuable source and I found a method for steaming them with liberal amounts of Old Bay Seasoning.  I was glad Amanda was not onboard when I threw the live crabs into a pot of steaming water.  As an avid animal lover, she would have been distraught.  After the crabs were cooked, they were chilled for several hours in the refrigerator. 

Dinner was on the aft deck with a white sheet covering the table to catch the mess made by cracking crab shells.  Joe repeatedly stated, “This is a lot of work”--and it was—but we all agreed it was a fun experience.  The crabs were very good and had more flavor than any others we have eaten.  With boiled new potatoes, a great green salad, and home-baked chocolate chip cookies for dessert, it was an excellent dinner.  Afterwards, we threw the shells overboard, washed the sheet, and vacuumed the floor to remove all traces of our mess.

September 5                                      Fairhaven, Massachusetts

Following our plan to depart early, shortly after 7:00 AM we crossed Boston Harbor to the marina on the opposite shore where diesel fuel was available to fill our tanks for a long day of cruising.  Weather reports indicated we would have this one day of sunshine before encountering three successive days of rain.  We wanted to go through the Cape Cod Canal before heading into a marina.  Unfortunately, Fairhaven Shipyard was filled and we had to secure a reservation at Pope Island Marina, near the New Bedford-Fairhaven Bridge.

We spotted a school of black porpoises as we neared Plymouth.  For a brief time, they followed the boat, playing in the wake.  We enjoyed again going through the canal and watching the activity on shore. Leaving the canal introduced us to the turbulence of Buzzard’s Bay.  The wind changed and became a strong force against us, the waves buffeted us, and the rain began.  Fortunately when we reached our marina, the wind was blowing with us and we were able to dock easily to the fixed face dock.  Since the tide was up, we could step off the boat onto the dock without a ladder.

Blake, Amanda, Stephanie, and I walked the short distance into the downtown area and I gave them a quick tour of the significant architectural treasures of Fairhaven.  We returned to the boat and had a great dinner.  We had brought prime steaks from home just for such an occasion.  David grilled them perfectly and everyone was sated with good food and wine.  We watched one of our favorite movies, A New Leaf   before bed.

September 1-4                       Boston, Massachusetts

Our voyage to Boston took us through the Cape Cod Canal, wide, deep, and scenic, to the Atlantic Ocean.  We were pleased we went through on a rising tide from the bay, considerably increasing our speed.  Unexpectedly, we encountered turbulence when we neared the ocean and the incoming water met the outgoing tide.  Numerous eddies pushed the boat back and forth but David was able to maintain control.

The ocean was beautifully calm and we had no difficulty arriving at the expected time in Boston Harbor.  Weaving through the archipelago of small islands leading to the downtown area, we easily found our marina, Boston Waterboat Marina, located at the end of Long Wharf, a Boston Landmark.  We were in a small family-owned marina that held small sailboats and motorboats as well as four large yachts.  It was in easy walking distance of many shops, restaurants, and the Italian district.  We were delighted with the location.  To celebrate the completion of our northward journey, we grilled veal chops on the boat and opened the bottle of Silver Oak red wine given us by Suzanne for a “special occasion.”  Dinner on the aft deck with the lights of Boston all around us was a highlight.

On Friday, we left the boat early to have breakfast at a nearby Dunkin Donuts.  This chain is very popular in Boston and there are many locations throughout the city.  We enjoyed the food, ham, eggs, and cheese on croissants, and the delicious iced coffee.  A large fresh produce market was opening in front of the Haymarket area and we were able to replenish our supplies. Returning to the boat, we stopped at Crocs to purchase several pairs of their wonderful shoes.  Originally designed for boaters, they have great soles for traction of decks and docks.

Stephanie and Joe arrived on the water taxi at 3:00 PM and were ready for adventure.  We decided to have a late lunch/early dinner before returning to the boat to watch the TCU-Baylor game.  They had been told to go to the Union Oyster House for good seafood and historical ambiance.  It was a pleasant walk from the marina and we were quickly seated near the famous “Kennedy Booth,” where JFK came often when he lived nearby to read the morning newspapers.  Our waitress was a delight and unusually engaging.  With blond, curly, short hair, Karen resembled Jessica Lange in the movie Tootsie. We loved the service and the restaurant but the food was not exceptional. 

The football game between TCU-Baylor was exciting to the last few seconds when an interception by Baylor cinched the win for the Bears.  Like other TCU fans, I was shocked my team had lost.  David and Stephanie were ecstatic and obnoxious in their celebratory glee.

Saturday was a good day for shopping.  Stephanie and I left early, caught a subway to the Beacon Hill area and slowly perused the boutiques on Charles Street.  We lunched at Toscano, a beautiful Northern Italian restaurant. The shops were busy, restaurants were packed, and streets were crowded.  Boston was an active place for the Labor Day weekend.

That evening, we left the boat early to walk to the Italian area.  The weather was lovely and all the restaurants had opened large windows facing the street.  Lines had formed outside most of them and there was no immediate possibility of entering the famous pastry shops on the street.  People were everywhere.  The lovely Catholic church, established by Italian immigrants a century ago, was open and we were able to see the beautiful interior, similar to those we have seen in small towns in Italy. 

On our previous visit to Boston in July, we had dinner at Mamma Maria and we wanted to share the experience with Joe and Stephanie. Reservations had been made several days before to secure a table.  Considered by many to be Boston’s finest Italian restaurant, it is very popular and the small interior limits seating.  Dinner was exceptionally good and we finished with Brandy Alexanders and fabulous cannoli. It was an extravagant indulgence in expense and calories. We had no regrets.

On Sunday, we turned into slugs, eating a late brunch on the boat and reading the morning newspapers.  David and Joe finally responded to my “gentle hints” and spent several hours adding molding to the port side of the boat.  The project was completed in time for the arrival of Blake and Amanda.  Since we were leaving early the following morning, they had limited time to see Boston so they quickly left to board a trolley tour. 

After their return, we went to Legal Sea Foods Long Wharf for dinner.  Blake wanted crab cakes and our internet search had shown this restaurant to have some of the best in Boston.  Located only two blocks from the marina, it was an easy walk and the crab cakes were worthy of their reputation.  With drooping eyelids, Amanda and Blake were soon ready to return to the boat and bed. It was wonderful to have our family with us and we were looking forward to sharing with them the fun of cruising in this beautiful area.

August 26-31                       Fairhaven, Massachusetts

The news was filled with warnings about Hurricane Irene and our marina staff was busy with boats, many of them large yachts, coming in to be placed in dry dock on the shipyard.  All spaces in the water were filled so owners were forced to pay for their boats to be pulled and placed on supports.  This appeared to be precarious in strong winds but apparently no danger existed as boats continued to be pulled until well after 7:00 PM.  David spent the morning removing cushions, securing curtains, and re-tying lines.

As we had the rental car for most of the day, we went to the grocery store and hardware store to replenish supplies.  Lunch was at another local favorite, Margaret’s, a small family-owned seafood restaurant.  David had sautéed crab strips that he deemed exceptional and my salmon with dill sauce was also very good.  We returned to the boat to find another large yacht had moved into the space behind us.  With two massive shipping vessels on our side facing the river, a large dock and building in front of us, and  two yachts behind us, our exposed areas to the wind and waves were now completely shielded.

On Saturday, the sun was gone and the sky had turned gray.  We sent messages to family and friends  we were in a safe place and would remain there until all possible danger was past.  SGA projects and computer work filled our time.  We enjoyed a great movie classic, The Razor’s Edge on television.

We awakened early Sunday to strong wind and rain.  The rain quickly subsided but the winds continued and, at times, seemed to be deafening.  The boat rocked but it was never unpleasant. The gates on the hurricane barrier had been closed and the surges were strong in the river but much weaker in the marina.  Fortunately, we had television reception and could keep informed of the progress of the hurricane.  It was now called a tropical storm but the widespread damage was impressive.  We comforted ourselves with good food—a frittata for brunch and beef stew with cornbread for dinner.  By bedtime, we were aware the winds had subsided and the worst was over.  Weather reports for the rest of the week were optimistic for our cruise to Boston.

We stayed in port on Monday, a lovely cool sunny day, to avoid debris from the hurricane that would have floated offshore.  Our beautifully clean boat was now covered in a film of salt and grit.  I spent considerable time washing the exterior.  The marina was busy with boat owners checking their vessels and washing away accumulated salt. 

Our plans to leave on Tuesday were abruptly changed when we discovered two significant problems:  our steering was gone and one generator would not start.  Fortunately, our marina was part of an operating shipyard and an electronics repairman was available (Bring Out Another Thousand). He determined the problems and presented us with possible solutions.  New parts would have to be found and acquired.  This was a challenge as our boat is more than twenty years old and some parts are no longer available.  After several hours, we were told the parts were enroute and the repair should be completed on Wednesday.  Our planned trip to Gloucester and Marblehead would be cancelled.  We were now hoping we could arrive in Boston in time to meet Stephanie and Joe on Friday.

Using our unexpected delay time, David and I began working on our project to cover some peeling paint areas around the exterior side panels.  It was not a difficult job but it had taken considerable time to come to a manageable and inexpensive solution.  We would cover the peeling areas with aluminum molding.  Working together, we almost completed one side before SGA work interrupted. We are very pleased with the result and will continue the project as time and opportunity permits.

Our electronics expert arrived as promised with the needed parts (UPS Red Label is a valuable resource for stranded boaters).  Hours later, the new starter was installed and the steering had been repaired.  We were finally ready to start for Boston.  A long day of cruising through Buzzards Bay, the Cape Cod Canal, and the Atlantic Ocean would take us to our marina in downtown Boston a day before our kids would arrive. 

August 25               Fairhaven, Massachusetts

David was scheduled to arrive before nightfall so I finished my cleaning chores and prepped for dinner.  Hurricane Irene was off the East Coast and was predicted to hit by the weekend.  Several large yachts had come into the marina and the limited available space was rapidly decreasing.  Our boat was moved forward to provide additional dock area for a yacht whose massive white prow seemed almost to be coming into our aft deck area.  It looked as if a large whale was rising from the water.

I rode my bike to the Unitarian Memorial Church and was fortunate again to have an excellent guide for an individual tour.  Designed by Charles Brigham and completed in 1904, the church was wholly a gift from Henry Huddleston Rogers in memory of his mother.  The construction budget was unlimited and Rogers never revealed the total cost; but is estimated to have been considerable even in 1904 dollars.

More than forty stone carvers from Italy and wood carvers from Bavaria worked for three years to execute the multiple details and figures that adorn every wall, pew, pillar, and niche throughout the sanctuary, office areas, and fellowship rooms.  Eight ten feet tall angels of wood, covered in beaten gold, are attached to huge beams supporting the wooden ceiling of the sanctuary.  The nave is 71 feet long with 24 feet tall stained glass windows, executed in the Art Nouveau style of Louis Comfort Tiffany.  They are breathtakingly beautiful.  Above the choir area is “The Nativity” depicting Mary, the Christ Child, a shepherd, and the Magi in glorious shades of blue, turquoise, violet, and mauve.  At the other end of the nave is the “Sermon on the Mount” window depicting the twelve Apostles with a glorious image of Jesus depicted in shades of yellow, green, and brown.  Reid used a layered stained glass technique, usually seven to twelve plates, to produce multiple colorations that seemed to “melt” from one hue to another.  These two windows are, in my opinion, equal or superior to any produced by Tiffany and many others renowned throughout the world.  It was difficult to walk away from them.  Smaller examples of Reid’s work, memorializing family members or honored notables, were installed in the nave and clerestory.  The walls, pews, choir, baptistery canopy, and pulpit were made of intricately carved bog oak, a rare material imported from England.  The master carver, John Kirchmayer, a worthy vocational descendant of Riemenschneider, another woodcarver whose famous work I greatly admire, executed a pulpit and baptistery canopy that magnificently depict multiple figures with individualized faces and poses. 

Henry Huddleston Rogers left a bequest of two million dollars to maintain the Unitarian Memorial Church.  This considerable amount was lost in the stock market debacle of 1929.  Today the church has only about 150 active members and there are limited funds.  This great treasure is threatened but the members are mounting a capital campaign that hopefully will fill their coffers and provide for needed maintenance.

David arrived and was glad to escape again the Texas heat.  The news regarding the hurricane indicated we were definitely in its path.  We decided our present position was secure as a giant hurricane barrier, with massive steel doors that closed when needed, guarded the mouth of the river leading from the bay. This would prevent surges that could inundate the marina.  We would remain in Fairhaven until the storm was over.