August 28-30                             Baltimore, Maryland

David insisted our departure from Cape May had to follow breakfast at the newly opened Saltwater Café at South Jersey Marina.  On our previous visit, the space had been in shambles with construction underway.  We were greeted with a lovely room enhanced by nautical paintings and muted turquoise and lime green décor.  Someone had done a great job of transforming a nondescript room into an outstanding, welcoming space. Our food was delicious and well-presented.  The delay was justified!

Delaware Bay was enveloped in an advection fog, created by the convergence of humid conditions with warm temperature. Visibility was limited and Dave carefully followed our progress on the GPS and radar to avoid shallow water, shoals, and large barges.  With smooth water and little wind, the journey was much more pleasant than that of the previous two days.

We were scheduled to dock at Summit North Marina near the center of the C & D Canal but the weather drastically improved when we entered the eastern end of the canal and we decided to make it a long day of cruising.  We would go on to Baltimore.  Arriving at Henderson’s Wharf Marina a few minutes before 7:30 PM, we were delighted to be met by Bill, who welcomed us back “home.”

We were eager to acquaint Dave with the Fell’s Point historic area and Adela’s, our favorite restaurant in Baltimore.  Walking through the cobblestoned streets, we pointed out the lovely houses and interesting shops.  Adela’s, a tapas restaurant was a great choice.  Their dining room is elegantly furnished with bold Spanish design wallpaper, enormous silver framed mirror, and small tables arranged for intimate dining.  We ordered an assortment of tapas:  fried artichoke, spicy potatoes, potato balls, crab cakes, grilled scallops with sautéed cauliflower and spinach, and fresh anchovies.  All were beautifully presented and delicious.  We finished with small dishes of rice pudding garnished with brandy soaked golden raisins. 

Thursday and Friday were productive days with extensive cleaning of the boat’s interior and exterior.  Our final evening in Baltimore was spent at Aldo’s Ristorante in Baltimore’s Little Italy area.  Aldo’s is one of the most beautiful restaurants we have ever experienced.  Dave was “blown away” by its lovely, elegant interior.  With apricot walls enhanced with subtle patterned fabric inserts and magnificent columns, Aldo’s uses architecture, dimmed lighting, and soft music to create an impression of exceptional fine dining.  David and Dave raved about their choices of caprese salad, foie gras with dark cherry sauce, surf and turf, and veal tenderloins.  I dined on perfectly seasoned clams and linguine.  The service, food, and ambiance were exceptional.

The evening was a celebratory occasion marking the successful completion of our summer journey on The Bottom Line from Baltimore to Maine and back.  We had many memories of great places, special events, and wonderful people.

August 27                                         Cape May, New Jersey

The weather forecasts indicated we would have rough seas for our trip to Cape May.  The sky was blue and sunny but the wind made the water choppy.  Dave again held the helm throughout our four hour trip to the beautiful South Jersey Marina at Cape May.   Huge baskets of blooming flowers adorned the office area and entrances to the docks. Everything was pristine and the dock help was efficient and helpful.  It was great to be back.

Dave had not been to Cape May and we were eager for him to experience its beauty and charm.  He and David left the boat to explore the downtown area and replenish the refrigerator.  Eschewing the more famous and popular The Lobster House next to the marina, we opted for Lucky Bones, on the opposite side of the street.  A previous visit to The Lobster House had left us unimpressed with the quality of their food.  Lucky Bones proved to be excellent.  We dined on superb baked bronzino, a Mediterranean sea bass, stuffed with crabmeat, delicious lightly fried calamari, and steamed clams.  An unassuming restaurant, Lucky Bones had five star food!

 

August 25-26                             Atlantic City, New Jersey

Joe and Dave left early on Sunday morning for their day in the city.  They visited some famous old funky bars (one in an Airstream mobile home), had pizza at Lombardi’s in Little Italy, and walked across the Brooklyn Bridge.  We had a farewell dinner for Joe on the boat with grilled shrimp, fresh sweet corn, stuffed crabs, and banana pudding for dessert.  Joe swore he was going home happy, relaxed, and fat.

Monday was a clear day for our journey southward.  Dave expertly took the boat out into New York Harbor, past the Verrazano-Narrows Bridge, and into the Atlantic Ocean, where we immediately were buffeted by 15-20 mph. winds.  As we rounded Sandy Hook, a Coast Guard vessel hailed us and warned of possible danger from a nearby dredge that had sucked up an unexploded bomb. We took seriously the warning and altered our course. It is amazing that such hazardous items still remain from WWII and that they are so near the United States mainland. 

After a long day of bruising, jolting cruising through 3-4 feet waves, we gratefully reached the marina at the Golden Nugget Hotel and Casino in Atlantic City.  The guys wanted sushi for dinner and there reportedly was an excellent sushi bar at Caesar’s Palace on the boardwalk.  We took the Jitney, a small bus providing transportation to all the major casinos, and had an opportunity to see more of the city.  We were amazed at the long line of magnificent hotel-casinos lining the brightly lighted, wide, almost four miles of boardwalk abutting the dunes on the beach.

Caesar’s Palace was reminiscent of its Las Vegas parent with faux-Roman statues, magnificent chandeliers, and huge rooms of gaming.  For the fortunate winners, there were beautiful stores with names like Gucci, Burberry, and Louis Vuitton.  The sushi restaurant was small, quiet, and unassuming (quite different from the opulent steak, seafood, and Italian restaurants nearby).  The sashimi and sushi were excellent.

After dinner, we strolled down the boardwalk and happily encountered the start of an amazing laser show projected on the imposing façade of the Atlantic City Train Station.  Lasting for more than ten minutes, it was an incredible and beautiful display of technical skill.  On our cab ride back to the marina, Dave quizzed our driver about changes to the city brought about by the casinos.  As a long-time resident, the driver adamantly stated he preferred it as a beach resort town instead of the gambling mecca it had become.  He declared it was “Donald’s town,” as in Trump.

 

August 24                                Jersey City, New Jersey

Joe and I left the boat early to catch the first ferry to Manhattan.  We took a cab to the museum and enjoyed the ride up the Westside Highway past the Intrepid, a giant aircraft carrier that is now the home of the space shuttle, Enterprise, the docks with huge cruise ships, and the trapeze school with flyers practicing their skills on equipment mounted atop a five-storied building. Bikers, runners, skaters, and parents with strollers were crowding the sidewalks and streets.  Everyone was eager to enjoy the beautiful weather.

Joe and I agreed to separate so each of us could go to the parts of the museum we chose to see.  We met for lunch in the Trustees Dining Room.  To my delight, we were seated at a table near the window overlooking Cleopatra’s Needle, the giant obelisk from Egypt that stands in Central Park. Many years ago, this massive piece of stone was unloaded from a ship docked on the Hudson River and transported across Manhattan on a platform supported by cannon balls.  It took several weeks to bring it to the park and then with painstaking planning and calculation, it was lifted high in the air and carefully placed precisely in place on its mount where it stands today.  Such a task would be challenging today but with the primitive equipment of that day, it was a formidable feat.

The Trustees Dining Room is one of my favorite New York places.  It is simple, elegant and features great service and wonderful food.  Joe and I especially enjoyed our decadent desserts—coconut panna cotta with candied pineapple and chocolate crumb crust cheesecake with dark cherry sauce.  Joe insisted we should feel guilty for leaving David on the boat with leftovers.  I assured him David would manage very well and guilt was not warranted.

I returned to the galleries and spent the next three hours enjoying galleries I rarely see.  The Near Eastern Art galleries displayed magnificent carpets, some from royal courts, and incredibly beautiful pottery glazed in brilliant turquoise.  The Twentieth Century galleries had works by many of the artists we have at the Modern in Fort Worth.  I was delighted to see a great Chuck Close portrait and a triple study for a self-portrait by Frances Bacon.  The Annenberg Galleries held the wonderful paintings of Van Gogh.  The Chinese Galleries were closed for renovation but the Japanese collection was interesting with works from past and contemporary artists.  Joe made a point to find the painting of Washington Crossing the Delaware, newly restored and framed, and an exhibition of Civil War photographs.

After a great day, we returned to the boat to greet Dave, who had arrived earlier and accompanied his dad to a nearby restaurant for a delicious lunch (no leftovers for David). Dave would be with us on our journey to Baltimore.  Dinner was at MaritimeParc, a lovely restaurant at the marina which features excellent seafood.

 

 

 

 

August 23                                Jersey City, New Jersey

Our departure from Stamford was delayed by a need for fuel.  We had not re-fueled since leaving Maine.  After adding more than 600 gallons of diesel, we were ready for the final part of our journey to New York City.

Joe was excited about cruising down the East River, under the bridges, and seeing the magnificent skyline of Manhattan.  He was constantly on deck taking photographs and texting Stephanie.  The weather was perfect for photography with a clear blue sky and no haze.

We were delighted to have an excellent slip at Liberty Landing.  The parking lot adjacent to the marina was packed with cars for the PGA golf tournament underway at the Liberty Golf Course only a short distance from our boat.  The sidewalks bordering the marina were filled with gf spectators going and coming from the ferries transporting them from the city.  Tiger Woods was one of the golfers and we were told he had a huge following for this tournament.

 

We were amazed to see a long, narrow, black boat docked near us.  It is about sixty feet in length but less than twelve feet wide.  Using only 120 volt electricity, it is obviously not air-conditioned or equipped with many appliances.  We think it is a converted coal barge built to navigate the Erie Canal.  It looks like something from a James Bond movie!

 

Joe was planning a number of things to do with Dave on Sunday.  They would go to Brooklyn, attend a market in Williamsburg, eat pizza at a renowned restaurant under the Brooklyn Bridge, and then return by walking across the bridge. It seemed to be a great plan!  I was delighted that Joe wanted to go on Saturday to the Metropolitan Museum of Art and invited me to accompany him.  Now that was my kind of plan!

 

                                   

 

                                     

August 22                                Stamford, Connecticut

We left Noank with blue skies and sunshine.  An hour later, we were in haze and clouds.  Joe checked the weather app on his IPhone and informed us we would soon be in a thunderstorm.  He was not mistaken.  The rain, thunder, and lightening hit us with a sudden force.  We were far from a port so we continued on our course.  Fortunately, the lightening abated after about ten minutes.   The rain intensified and became the heaviest we had ever encountered. After an hour or so, blue skies returned and our journey to Stamford was without additional incident.

Brewer’s Marina is just inside the breakwater to the east channel and just before the hurricane barrier erected years ago to protect the city.  The setting was near a lovely park on one side and massive office buildings on the other.  It was a quiet lovely place but far from any conveniences.  We opted to enjoy the beautiful evening by remaining on deck for drinks and dinner.

August 21                      Noank, Connecticut

We had two choices in determining our route to New York.  We could follow the southern coastline along Long Island or follow the northern coastline along Rhode Island and Connecticut.  The distance was basically the same for both.  We chose to follow the northern coastline and go to New London for our first stop.  After two phone calls to marinas in that area, we changed our destination to Noank.  It was an hour nearer, they had floating docks, and they promised to have dock assistance waiting for us.

Noank is an old village perched atop several hills at the entrance to the narrow channel leading to Mystic, our home for six weeks last year when David had the accident that resulted in hospitalization and a period of rehabilitation. A magnificent white Baptist church has a prominent place in Noank’s village center.  More than three stories tall with an impressive steeple, it is a reminder of the days when Noank was a bustling fishing center with a larger population than is present today.  Surrounding the church are numerous Federal style homes, large and small, with plaques noting previous occupants and dates of construction.  Many are close to 200 years old.  Noank is a peaceful, beautiful village with few commercial enterprises and is a tribute to residents who take great pride in their heritage.

Noank Village Marina was a convenient location for a short walk to Ford’s Lobster Shack, a local seafood legend. Dining was al fresco on the docks.  We had a lengthy wait but it was worth it.  David stated his steamed lobster was as good as those he had in Maine, Joe and I had great seafood chowder, and my lobster salad in an avocado half was wonderful.  The setting was very rustic but the food was gourmet!  We enjoyed our walk back to the marina through the quiet streets illuminated by a bright yellow full moon.

 

August 20                      Sandwich, Massachusetts

We awakened to a gorgeous sunny morning.  A perfect day for cruising; but we were going nowhere until the chain was removed from the prop.  As promised, the diver arrived, hurriedly jumped into the water, and in ten minutes had a twenty-foot length of chain up on the dock.  When David tried the engines, the sound was a smooth purr.  The prop was not damaged.  We were ready to go.  The diver’s charge was far less than expected.  David gave him a generous tip and thanked him profusely for coming to our aid.

Carefully maneuvering through the mooring field and Salem Harbor, we were relieved to be in open water.  Our trip to Sandwich Marina, just inside the Cape Cod Canal, was delightful.  Joe, David, and I took turns at the helm.  We were happy and relieved to have survived the prop accident without damage and only a short delay.  We docked at Sandwich Marina without incident.  Dinner was on the boat with succulent grilled steaks from our Costco supply in the freezer. We celebrated our fifty-ninth wedding anniversary with gratitude for each other and  the wonderful opportunity to explore the eastern coast of our beautiful country by boat.

 

August 19                                Salem, Massachusetts

We left Maine behind and returned to Massachusetts.  Another long day of cruising but the sea was calm and Joe did a great job at the helm.  David and I are being spoiled.  Perhaps having a crew member would be an excellent idea!

Hawthorne Cove Marina was our choice because it would be easily accessible.  We previously had stayed at Pickering Wharf Marina, located in the downtown area but it was difficult to maneuver in a boat as large as The Bottom Line.  The dockmaster at Hawthorne Cove reserved a place for us on the end dock because it would be shallow with low tide at the time of our arrival.  That information should have warned me to go elsewhere.

We had difficulty reaching the dockmaster on the radio when we arrived and we did not want to venture through the mooring field without instructions.  Markers were not helpful.  We finally were given instructions to follow the channel to the dock.  When David tried to make a starboard approach, the wind pushed him back toward a hazard marker for a submerged rock (Salem Harbor is a notorious rock field).  In pulling back from the rock, he backed over a buoy, which was drawn beneath the boat and the chain holding it wrapped around our prop shaft.  We immediately lost our port engine

Docking against the wind with only one engine was a formidable task.  The dockhand was young and not very strong.  Others came to his aid but it was more than thirty minutes before the boat was securely docked.  David, Joe, and I were terrified that significant damage had been done to the prop.  Repairs could be lengthy and expensive. 

Determined to make lemonade from lemons, we left the boat and walked a few blocks into the historic waterfront area of Salem.  Dinner was at Finz, a lovely seafood restaurant with a terrace overlooking the marina at Pickering Wharf.  Wonderful fried clam strips, clam chowder, and paella made us feel better!  A diver had been called and would be at the boat by noon.  We did not want to make a Plan B though it was conceivable our Plan A might no longer be possible!  We were hopeful we could continue to New York as scheduled and Joe could depart for home as Dave would arrive to join us for the remainder of the trip to Baltimore

August 18                      South Portland, Maine

Joe and David were ready to depart at 8:30 AM but I was reluctant to say farewell to Southwest Harbor.  We had been here for five weeks but would have loved to have stayed longer.  Micah came to untie our lines and say goodbye.  We promised to return next year and he promised to be there to meet us.

The journey to South Portland (across the channel from the city of Portland) was on the calmest sea we had ever experienced.  Waves were almost indiscernible.  The only disruption in the water was an occasional porpoise that flipped its fins at us as it swam away.  Joe was a conscientious pilot who stayed at the helm most of the day.

South Point Marina offered quick and easy access.  After a long day on the water, we did not want to go into town.  We were eager to walk a little, have dinner, and return to the boat for TV viewing.  Boathouse Joe was our answer for dinner.  Sitting on the deck, overlooking the marina, we were gifted with an incredible sunset.  The sky was lighted in brilliant shades of pink and purple.  Our food was delicious—wonderful crab cakes, seafood chowder, and steamed mussels.

August 11-17                 Southwest Harbor, Maine

Glenn and Ann left early on Sunday morning.   We regretted seeing them leave. They had been a delight.  We returned to the boat to do some cleaning and prepare for our next guest.  Stephanie would arrive later that afternoon.  Joe would come on Wednesday after he completed his business meetings in Fort Worth.   I had not seen Stephanie since June and it was wonderful to have her come for a lengthy visit.  Of course, she was thrilled to be coming to Maine and returning to the boat.

As promised, we had ordered lobsters for dinner.  The bakery workshop was operating and we were able to buy a freshly baked blueberry pie.  Stephanie was excited to enjoy the magnificent Maine cuisine we had bragged about since last summer.

Monday was another day of fog, rain, and cold.  We stayed onboard.  Miller returned and he and David began pursuing the persistent and worsening leakage problem that was discoloring the cedar lining of the closet in the master stateroom.  All sorts of hypothesizes were considered.  Was the leak coming from the icemaker on the aft deck?  Was the leak coming from a source in the adjacent engine room?  At one point, Miller actually sawed away part of the closet floor to determine if it came from an unseen source.  He finally concluded it was coming from the exhaust and could be solved with a dehumidifier.  David and I were dubious but we did not have a better answer.

The rain stopped on Tuesday afternoon and Stephanie and I went to Northeast Harbor to shop without the men.  We slowly perused the lovely shops and made calculated decisions about our wardrobes and gifts for folks back home.  That night, we introduced Stephanie to lobster rolls.  She insisted on blueberry pie for every meal.

Wednesday presented another boat project—but one with an easily discernible solution.  The water pump, needed for a water source when we were cruising (and which had not worked well for several months) was found to be inoperative.  Miller, a fount of inestimable knowledge about boats, quickly contacted the local plumbing company and ordered a replacement.  The good news was it was available immediately; the bad news was it was in Bangor.

Stephanie and I opted to drive to Bangor for the needed part.  It would give her an opportunity to see the beautiful countryside.  The day was sunny with a magnificent blue sky.  We stopped in Ellsworth at the L.L. Bean Outlet for more shopping before continuing to Bangor.  The part was waiting for us and we quickly retraced our route.  A few miles before reaching Southwest Harbor, we stopped at RAT’S.  RAT'S (the initials of the owner) is a local legend for fresh seafood sold from a secluded converted garage surrounded by thick groves of pine trees.  It is accessible from a dirt road about ½ miles from the highway.  We had been told he had fresh cherrystone clams (we consider the local clams to be “muddy” in taste).  The clams were soaking in sea water and were the largest we had ever seen.  One was the size of my hand.

Joe arrived at eight o’clock and, as promised, we had magnificent lobster, delicious clams, and freshly baked blueberry pie waiting for him.  Miller (who calls himself a black Chef Boyardee) insisted on cooking the lobster and clams in sea water on the dock.  He assured me it would taste better than if cooked in regular salted water.  He was correct!  We enjoyed perfectly cooked and very tasty seafood.

On Thursday, we took Stephanie and Joe for a tour through the park and enjoyed lunch on the terrace of Seafood Ketch in Bass Harbor. Friday was a gorgeous day with little wind.  We took the boat out and again cruised to Seal Harbor and Northeast Harbor.  After our cruise,we quickly decided to drive to Bar Harbor for lunch. 

The town was packed with people from a docked cruise ship.  We escaped the crowds by choosing the beautiful, historic Bar Harbor Inn for lunch.  It was an excellent choice for both food and ambiance.  Sitting on the terrace, we had a great view of the harbor and  an assortment of boats coming and going.

 The repertory theater at Somesville was presenting A Murder is Announced, an Agatha Christie mystery play.  We were delighted Stephanie and Joe seemed eager to attend.  Held in the rustic s Somesville Masonic Hall, the play utilized well the excellent acoustics of the building.  Seating was an assortment of chairs that might have been donated by patrons or purchased from the local Goodwill.  Most looked as if they were from the Fifties and could have enhanced the living or dining rooms of local inhabitants. The actors were superb, the set was creative, and the play was entertaining.  We were pleased we had attended.

On Saturday, after a quick perusal of the local crafts fair in downtown Southwest Harbor, Stephanie dropped me at the bank, said goodbye, and drove our rental car to the airport for her noon departure to Boston.  As a “working girl,” it was time for her to return to reality.  She left reluctantly and we missed her immediately. When I returned to the boat, David and Joe gleefully told me they had solved the mysterious leak in the closet.  Joe had opened a wooden panel and discovered an exhaust hose was leaking condensation.  He tightened the hose clamps and the leak stopped.  Hours later, there was no sign of moisture.  Not only handsome, Joe is brilliant, too!

We decided to utilize the dinghy for a “cocktail cruise” of Somes Sound. We were fortified with wine, prosciutto, crackers, and life jackets, as we made a leisurely voyage up this exquisite little fjord,” which is surrounded by heavily wooded hills and beautiful homes.  The area is ‘picture-perfect Maine.” We were excited to see several sea lions flipping smoothly through the water.

 

 

 

 

August 7-10                            Southwest Harbor, Maine

Joe, from Ellis Boat Company, knew we had guests coming and he worked diligently to finish the new teak baseboards in the hall, the re-configured stairs leading from the galley to the hall, and the beautiful teak panel above the helm.  Miller had completed most of his work on the bridge, Troy had checked the five air conditioner units, cleaned vents, and added Freon, and Roger had worked on the refrigerator and made the defective control panel work until a new one could be installed.  The boat was busy as a beehive and with all those guys coming and going. I could not finish my cleaning.  Our guests would arrive at 4:00 PM and at 3:00 PM, disorder reigned.  David went to the airport without me.  All the workmen left by 3:30 PM and I managed to make the boat presentable for our guests who would arrive on the dock by 5:00 PM.

As I waited for David’s return, I looked into the water next to our boat and saw the black, sleek body and head of a small sea lion.  It was casually turning flips as it swam past and out into the harbor.  We never had seen a sea lion at Southwest Harbor and I was very surprised.

Glenn and Ann Biggs, good friends from San Antonio arrived on a beautiful day in Maine.  We were so glad they could see the incredible scenery bathed in sunlight for; unfortunately rain and fog were predicted for the next two days.  Glenn and Ann are lovely, gracious people who have traveled widely and have had many interesting experiences.  They are excellent conversationalists and we love to visit with them.

As predicted, Thursday was rainy, foggy, and cold.  Breakfast and lunch were on the boat. We were curious about a large yacht dock next to us.  With a distinctive tan hull and three sleek upper decks, it was a beautiful boat.  A brief break in the rain prompted Glenn to walk to the ladder of the boat and step up to the deck.  We were watching and were sure he would be told to leave.  Instead, after a short conversation, he returned to our boat with the captain. We learned the yacht was owned by Paul and Judy Andrews of Fort Worth.  Joe, the captain, and his family live in Aledo and he had been a captain of several yachts for the Andrews.  The name of the yacht, Abbracci, means to hug in Italian.  It is 155 feet long and has staterooms for eight people.  Joe was delightful and a wonderful source of information about marinas and ports on the east coast and in the Bahamas.

The afternoon presented a break in the weather and we toured Southwest Harbor, part of Acadia National Park, and Bass Harbor. We visited the Wendell Gilley Museum.  Gilley, a resident of Southwest Harbor, was famous for his extraordinary wooden carvings of birds.  His carvings are carefully executed and  hand painted in great detail.   Dinner was at Fiddler’s Green, a charming restaurant near the marina.  The ambiance, service, and the food were excellent. 

On Friday, we awakened to loud rolls of thunder and hard rain.  Fog again encapsulated the area.  After a late breakfast, the fog lifted and we ventured out with umbrellas to drive to Northeast Harbor.  Hard rain met us before we arrived but subsided after we parked in the small downtown area.  Northeast Harbor has some wonderful shops and, despite the persisting showers, we wove our ways into and out of doorways.  The small bookshop had a trove of books on shipwrecks and underwater diving which we knew would appeal to our son.  After making a sizeable purchase, I asked the owner if I could take a photograph of his shop and was quickly told I could not.  He allowed no one, regardless of wealth or fame, to take pictures in his shop.  He wanted to be in control of anything published about it.  We found that to be strange, but whatever????? 

We returned to the boat just as the rain and fog accelerated.  Our plans to attend the play at the repertory theater in Somesville were shelved in favor of safety.  Docks can be treacherous when wet and in the dark, they can be an invitation to an accident.  Dinner was on the boat.

We were excited to learn a contingent of people from Fort Worth would be arriving to board the Abbracci.    Unfortunately, they arrived late and we did not see them before the yacht departed the next morning.  Saturday was the day we had hoped for Glenn and Ann’s visit.  A perfect day with gorgeous weather and little wind.  We decided to cancel the carriage ride on the trails in the park and take a cruise to Bar Harbor.  We saw the Abbracci turning into Northeast Harbor and exchanged greetings by horn.

We were delighted to see the beautiful homes lining the shores of Northeast Harbor and Seal Harbor.  Many of them are visible only by water as they are positioned far off the road and shielded by heavy stands of trees.  Seal Harbor has the huge Rockefeller estate with a number of homes. Reportedly, a large residence owned by Dick Wolf, the creator of the Law and Order shows, has a fabulous view.  The shoreline is composed of huge rocks and tall pine trees that stretch up the mountains in unbroken symmetry. 

When we turned the corner toward Bar Harbor, the wind intensified and we opted to return to the marina.   Rueben sandwiches on the boat, naps for the guys, and Ann and I went into town to shop for her grandchildren.  The shops and streets were packed.  Everyone was eager to get out after two days of inclement weather.  Dinner was at Red Sky, a highly regarded restaurant in Southwest Harbor.  It did not measure up to its exalted reputation. 

Our visit with Glenn and Ann was a highlight of our 2013 trip to Maine.  It was a delight to have them join us on The Bottom Line and spend time renewing our long friendship.  We have many happy, wonderful memories of times spent with them in the past.  They were perfect guests, always easy and accepting.  I was amazed Ann quickly learned how to negotiate the curved, steep stairs leading from the galley to the salon with trays of dishes and food.  She showed more skill than some others years younger!

                                         

            

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

July 30-August 6           Southwest Harbor, Maine

Northeast Harbor is a small, quaint village with a few tiny shops, several upscale boutiques, and an incredible home shop that stocks fabulous china, crystal, and home accessories.  The antique store is a treasure for discerning buyers and the market (although rather disheveled) carries wines to please any oenophile.  Residents of the expensive homes on the hills surrounding the little town are not deprived of their luxuries.

For fifty years, Northeast Harbor has hosted a series of chamber music concerts during the summer months.  In the beginning, they featured musicians who were faculty or students of renowned schools in the East but recognition and support increased and the concerts now are by professional performers of international standing.  Financial stability is provided by the generosity of numerous donors including David Rockefeller, Robert Bass, and Charles Butts, all residents.

The venue for the concerts is a Tudor-style building within the town, built more than 100 years ago, that serves as a community center.  The high-beamed ceiling of the auditorium, with seating for 500, encloses a room with many high windows to let in the cool evening breezes.  We arrived early and enjoyed watching the hall fill with an audience of casually dressed people who were eager to talk with one another.  It was a delightful scene.

The concert featured the Shanghai Quartet with a program by Beethoven, Verdi, and Schumann.  The music was superb and the musicians were amazing.  It was a rare and beautiful experience for us.  We had been told the acoustics of the hall were excellent and amplification was not needed.  We marveled that the full, rich tone of the strings was clearly heard despite the open windows.

 

On Wednesday, we took advantage of the beautiful weather to drive to Bangor.  Ostensibly, we were going to Sam’s Club to pick up a new dock cart ordered from the internet, but we also wanted to see Bangor.  The drive, a little more than ninety minutes, was on two-lane roads, through small towns, and lush, green countryside dotted with granite outcroppings.  Most homes were early twentieth century vintage and pristine in appearance. We rarely saw trashy relics of old cars and decrepit shacks.  Bangor sits high on hills overlooking the beautiful Penobscot River and its buildings and homes reflect its historical significance and its current status as a business center of the state.

I was delighted with my new aluminum dock cart.  It is identical to the one sold by West Marine and, at $49.50 was $250.00 less expensive.  I couldn’t believe it when I spotted it on the internet!  Quickly assembled at the marina, it functioned perfectly to bring our purchases down the dock to the boat.

We are enjoying the wonderful parade of boats into our marina.  Most of the large yachts stay several days, some even longer.  Their crews, often on board while the owners are absent, spend considerable time cleaning and polishing the boat.  Activity increases when the owner and his guests are due.  We see flower arrangements and boxes of food coming down the dock.  Some boats come directly in from Canada and custom officials are summoned to the marina.  On weekends, we often see magnificent runabouts with sleek hulls and polished mahogany interiors come in so the occupants can visit some of the local restaurants.