September 28                              Southwest Harbor, Maine

Weather reports indicated the wind would be very mild in early morning but would become stronger near noon.  We left the dock only minutes after 7:00 AM and saw a beautiful sunrise as we exited from the bay into the ocean.  The water was smooth and we enjoyed several hours of idyllic cruising.  We encountered a good current which increased our speed by almost two knots.  The afternoon brought a stronger wind but the waves remained friendly and we had an uneventful crossing of the Gulf of Maine.  Despite a sharp lookout throughout our journey, we did not see whales, which are often sighted in this area.

Our approach to Southwest Harbor brought back great memories of last summer as we passed Seal Harbor and Northeast Harbor, two of our favorite places in this area.  Carefully avoiding the many rocks and shoals, David skillfully brought us into dockage at Dysart’s Marina.  Micah, the harbormaster and Miller, our friend and helper were ready to catch our lines and give us a warm welcome.  We were delighted to see both of them.

We quickly make arrangements for fresh lobster for dinner (pulled from the lobster pot adjacent to our dock and steamed in sea water by Miller).  Although he had planned to leave the next morning, Miller delayed his departure to spend two days helping us do minor repairs on the boat.  He and David have a great relationship and enjoy working together.

After a wonderful lobster dinner on the aft deck, we felt at home.  Southwest Harbor is a special place for us with many good memories from our past two summers here. We both enjoyed a tremendous feeling of successful accomplishment knowing we had completed a journey of approximately 2,000 miles from Baltimore, to New York, through the Erie Canal, Oswego Canal, St. Lawrence Seaway, Northumberland Strait, Canso Causeway, and the waters off Nova Scotia to Maine.  It was a memorable experience!

September 27                              Yarmouth, Nova Scotia

With a prediction of good weather with mild wind, we decided to forego a day in port and continue to Yarmouth.  This would be a 75 nm journey taking us from the south shore to the west shore of Nova Scotia.  We chose to make the “outside passage” to avoid the many shoals, islands, and shallow water we would encounter on the “inside passage.”  The route was longer but with few hazards and not dependent on tide.

The sea was a little rougher than it had been in the past two days but did not present a problem.   We took turns at the helm which gave us time for needlepoint, football watching (the TV worked great) and napping in the afternoon.

Yarmouth had a great marina with floating docks that easily accommodated us.  Fellow boaters came to greet us and aid in docking.  Throughout our journey, we have enjoyed the friendliness of Canadians and their willingness to assist us.  

The waterfront was beautifully maintained with a few historical buildings.  As this would be my last day in Canada, I decided to go shopping and spend my Canadian cash.  A lovely gift shop on the main street depleted my wallet.  As David had some Canadian cash, I persuaded him to dine out at the nearby seafood restaurant.

Rudder’s is a local favorite for its excellent seafood and charming ambiance.  We were seated at a window on the second floor with a great view of the bay and the beautiful sunset.  I enjoyed pan-fried Digby scallops and David had escargot.  

As Yarmouth is near the Bay of Fundy, noted for having the world’s greatest tide differential, the bay was experiencing a high tide which rapidly covered large areas of exposed muddy bottom.  As we finished our dinner, the entire bay was filled with water.  We returned to the boat in time to watch the Baylor-Iowa State football game on TV and prepare for our long day of cruising tomorrow across the Gulf of Maine to Southwest Harbor, the final destination for our 2014 epic journey.

September 26                             Shelburne, Nova Scotia

We departed Lunenburg only minutes after 8:00 AM.  The bay was completely calm and flags on the dock were barely moving.  We were hoping this would continue when we reached the open sea.  To our amazement and delight, the sea was smooth as glass all the way to Shelburne, a journey of approximately 85 nm.  Cruising away from shore to avoid any shoals, we could still view the natural beauty of Nova Scotia with its rocky shores, sandy beaches, and thick forests of tall evergreens.

The approach to Shelburne is straightforward with few hazards, all clearly marked.  The town was settled by British Loyalists who left the future United States after the Revolutionary War.  It became a shipbuilding and fishing center.  The population today is about 2,000 residents and empty storefronts are indicative of a struggling economy.  The small historical area with a few homes and buildings from the early nineteenth century is well-maintained and worth a visit. Shelburne residents seem to be proud of their Loyalist heritage.  Pubs and houses displayed British flags and one home had a wooden statue of a British soldier prominently positioned in the front yard.

D

We docked at the Shelburne Yacht Club and Marina and received a warm welcome from Mary, the assistant manager.  We were invited to the club’s weekly social event that evening.  After a long walk through the town to experience its history and architectural beauty of its many old homes, we decided to attend the yacht club party. 

The club’s main room was on the second floor of the marina office with a breathtakingly beautiful view of the bay from the deck.  A vaulted ceiling with dark wooden beams was decorated with numerous burgees from other yacht clubs.  It was very pretty and festive.  There was a bar and numerous tables and chairs, all filled with club members and guests enjoying drinks and food.  The menu of the evening was southern fried chicken with bacon cornbread, mashed potatoes, and buttered carrots.  One would have thought Paula Deen was in the kitchen!  Obviously, the menu was a hit for we ordered just as they ran out of food.  No problem.  We enjoyed the ambiance and the warm greetings of the members.

Dinner was on the boat as David re-read the instructions for installation and operation of the macerator/waste pump.  Although it seemed to work after being fitted with a new hose, it again would not pump out waste.  As many marinas in this area do not have pump out facilities, this was creating a problem for us.

September 24-25                            Lunenburg, Nova Scotia

Weather reports indicated favorable winds for our departure from Halifax but we looked out to see whitecaps in the harbor.  David kept checking the internet and assured me we would be OK.  I insisted on waiting and by 11:00 AM, we could see improvement and decided to start our journey to Lunenburg.

 As promised, the waves were no problem and the wind decreased to 5 knots.  Cruising near the shore, the scenery was spectacular.  We saw lovely villages surrounded by thick forests of towering evergreens situated on white beaches or rocky shores.  It was postcard perfect!

We arrived at our dock at the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic in Lunenburg only minutes before closing at 5:00 PM and were welcomed with great help in securing our lines.  Eager to walk about, we promptly left the boat for a quick tour of this charming little town.  Situated on a high hill above the sea, Lunenburg is an architectural treasure of colorful nineteenth century homes and buildings.  Settled by German, Swiss, and French farmers, who quickly became shipbuilders and fishermen, the town reflects the prosperity and traditions of its founders.  Lunenburg is remarkably intact because it was spared fires and natural disasters which devastated many towns of that period.  It has also benefited from the pride in heritage of its residents, many whose descendants continue to live or own property here.  In 1995, Lunenburg was named a UNESCO Heritage Site, the first in North America.

A horse and carriage ride was a great way to tour the town without struggling to climb the steep hills.  Our driver was a charming lady who enlivened her historical narrative with many puns (and apologized for none of them!).  The imposing black and white academy building situated atop the hill on expansive grounds was the public school for many years.  It will re-open next year as a school for musicians.  Lunenburg’s churches are impressive and most continue to have active congregations. Many houses have a central dormer feature on the second floor and stained glass above the front doors.

We enjoyed a light dinner at the very nice seafood restaurant on the second floor of the maritime museum.  David ordered steamed mussels but we both agreed my calamari dusted in cornmeal drizzled in a sweet chili pepper and balsamic vinegar reduction sauce was superior.  We shared a decadent dessert of lemon custard on a layer of sweetened cream cheese atop a pecan shortbread cookie crust.  It was fantastic and after leaving the restaurant, we have tried to find a similar recipe on the internet.

On Thursday, we had to move the boat about a hundred yards to another docking area so we could receive fuel.  A truck supplied us with approximately 500 gallons of diesel fuel.  We should be OK for the remainder of the journey.  

The driver of the truck was very helpful in finding a length of special hose needed to repair our waste pump out system.  David spent most of the afternoon deep in the hold lying atop the damaged props installing the new hose and several needed replacement parts.  He emerged sore but victorious.  It worked!

While David worked, I enjoyed another walk through the terraced streets of Lunenburg and admired the many hanging metal sculptures of fish, scallops, mussels, and oysters, all which had meant so much to the economy of this town.  A glorious sunset ended the day as we enjoyed dinner on the  the boat.

September 21-23                       Halifax, Nova Scotia

It was sunny when our plane landed but dark clouds moved in quickly.  The sky began to darken and the wind increased.  Our taxi driver informed us a large storm was on the way with a prediction of hours of rain.  As we unloaded our suitcases from the taxi, the first raindrops began to fall.  We hurried to the nearby dock and hoisted everything on board as quickly as we could.  The rain came in torrents just as we closed the boat door.

We quickly checked the refrigerators and freezers to find all was well.  The interior of the boat looked great.  Joel came by to welcome us back.  We had agreed to pay him to watch over the boat during our absence and we were pleased to find he had done a good job.

We were soon settled in, watching TV, and enjoying a seafood pasta dinner on board.  The rain and wind continued for hours but we were securely tied to the dock and shielded by the bulk of the large WWII ship next to us.

Monday was sunny and beautiful.  We walked seven blocks to a large grocery store adjacent to the cruise ship terminal.  Three massive cruise ships filled the area.  September and October are the busiest months for cruising trips to Nova Scotia and Halifax is grateful for their considerable boost the local economy.

Although our list for shopping was small, our cart was filled and overflowing.  David is an impulse buyer and loves to try new items.  We needed a taxi to transport us and our many bags back to the boat.  With filled cabinets, refrigerator, and freezer, we are well provisioned for the rest of our journey.

Joel arrived at five o’clock as promised to install the new waste disposal unit I had brought from home.  Ours had not worked for more than a month and I missed the convenience.  With David’s supervisory help, Joel did a great job of installation.  Another problem solved!

We took advantage of another sunny (but cool) day to take a lengthy tour of Halifax.  The driver, dressed in full Scottish regalia, was an excellent guide.  He told us details of the great explosion of 1917 and the Titanic tragedy in 1912.  We visited the Fairhaven Cemetery where many of the Titanic victims are buried.  Always a site for tourists to visit, it has had increased popularity since the blockbuster movie about the Titanic’s sinking was released in 2007.

After the tour, I visited the small National Gallery of Nova Scotia.  Their collection is limited to mostly regional artists but one exhibit is truly outstanding.  The work of Maud Lewis is astonishing and mesmerizing.  A tiny woman, severely crippled by arthritis, who lived her life in extreme poverty, Maud Lewis was compelled to paint.  Lacking canvas and paper, she painted on every surface in her home, including walls, floor, stove, ceiling, tables, etc.  Her small one-room house has been moved into a gallery of the museum and is surrounded by her paintings.  It is a scene of beauty and jubilant expression.  Although she was untrained, Maud Lewis was not a primitive painter.  She possessed great skill in color, composition, and perspective.  She achieved some recognition before her death but did not live to enjoy the fame she has today.

We enjoyed an early dinner at McKelvie’s, a fine seafood restaurant in the financial district a few blocks from the dock.  Our entrees were pan-sautéed cod with a medley of fresh green and yellow beans, carrots, and asparagus.  Very good!  We shared a piece of coconut cream pie piled high with whipped cream and toasted coconut.  Decadent and delicious!

We were fortunate the Maritime Museum of Nova Scotia, located on the waterfront in front of our dock, was open late and free on Tuesday evenings.  With extensive displays of Halifax history and many models of the large seagoing vessels that once cruised in the area, it was an impressive and interesting place to visit.  There was a gruesome display of a pirate figure hanging from the gallows with his body encased in a gibbet.  We had seen one of those devices for the first time in a museum in Quebec.  Apparently, they were quite popular for holding the dead body in place as a stark reminder of punishment for criminal acts. Black and white photographs of the devastation caused by the explosion of 1917 were almost unbelievable.  Everything was leveled for miles in the southern part of the city.  

August 29-30                               Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

As predicted, Friday was very gusty and cold.  After leaving the boat to check in at the marina office, I decided we would remain on board and do some cleaning and needed small repairs.  Our tour of Halifax would wait for better weather. 

We were docked beside a naval war monument that attracted many visitors despite the harsh weather.  Painted white and blue, the Sackville, one of fewer than 300 Corvettes manufactured in World War II and serving to protect supply vessels from roaming German U-Boats, was restored and docked in Halifax as a reminder of naval vessels that helped to win the victory.

Although we had been onboard since May 24 (except for 10 days for trips to Texas and Belgium), David and I both expressed reluctance to leave our beautiful boat.  We were comfortable and content, however, our strong desires to see family, friends, and home (and attend the Baylor football game) were incentives to leave.

On Saturday, we left keys and instructions with Joel and departed for Texas.  It was a beautiful sunny day and bagpipe music was being played on the dock.  It was tempting to remain. We loved our visit to Canada and are looking forward to returning next month to complete our journey.

August 28                                      Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

Weather reports indicated we had a one day window of good weather before the onset of high winds from the hurricane off the coast of Newfoundland.  We left the dock at 7:15 AM for a long day of cruising.  Halifax was 100 nm from Goldboro and we hoped to be there before 6:00 PM.

Exiting the bay, we headed out into the Atlantic on a course that would avoid the many shoals indicated on the GPS and chart.   The waves initially were very choppy but lacked the violent turbulence of the previous day.  We could handle this.  As predicted from our weather reports, winds greatly decreased as we neared Halifax.  Our last three hours were on a glassy, calm sea.  It was wonderful to see at last the little white lighthouse welcoming us into Halifax Harbor.  It sits at the base of the famous citadel erected three centuries ago by the French as a fort.  

Halifax Harbor was the scene of the greatest man-made explosion ever until the advent of the nuclear bomb.  In 1917, two ships collided in the harbor.  One had a large cargo of explosives which was ignited by the sparks created from the scraping of metal on metal.  More than 4000 people died, many of them children, and more than 9000 were injured.  Help came from all over the world but the people of Massachusetts were particularly generous.  In gratitude, every year since 1917, Nova Scotia sends their largest evergreen tree to Boston for their city Christmas tree.  

We had been in contact with Joel at Halifax Waterfront for more than a week arranging for extended dockage.  We would leave on August 30 to fly to Texas.  The boat would remain in Halifax for our return on September 21.  Joel had reserved a great docking place for us.  We were in a wonderful position to observe the active waterfront scene.  It was a warm, beautiful evening and there were many people visiting the nearby sites, playground area, and souvenir shops.  The tall buildings of the city were only a block from us.  We were eager to explore Halifax.

Sitting on the bow, having a glass of wine, and observing the children playing on the large wave sculpture near the boat, we were called to the side by a couple who noticed our Texas flag on the maststaff.  They were from McKinney, Texas and were visiting Canada on their 40’ motorhome.  We invited them on board and found much to like about Carolyn and Larry Curfman.  They were dedicated travelers and had many great stories about their adventures.  We exchanged information and promised to meet again in Texas when all of us back in Texas.

August 27                          Goldboro, Nova Scotia, Canada

The fuel truck arrived on time and with a fast pump, we had taken on more than 500 gallons of fuel in less than ten minutes.  We left the dock before 8:00 AM on a beautiful sunny day with little wind.  Weather reports had indicated the wind would increase so we were expecting choppy waves when we entered the Atlantic. 

Our destination was a recommended marina at Liscombe.  This would be a journey of about eight hours.  Communication with Liscombe was not encouraging.  They had no space for us and mooring was questionable.  At 18 meters, our boat is too large for many small docks and we are reluctant to anchor.  Liscombe promised to call us later in the day to give us updated information. 

Before exiting Chedabucto Bay and entering the Atlantic, we experienced a marked increase in the wind and waves.  This continued without pause and we were battered as the bow of the boat was lifted high into the air and then dropped with considerable force.  We had “battened down the hatches” but furniture was moved, books thrown from the shelves, and a cabinet door in the galley shaken loose.  We were confined most of the day to the helm as it was too dangerous to go below.

We were hopeful the waves would diminish as the hours passed but this did not happen.  We both agreed we had experienced our worst day ever on a boat.  Shortly after 4:00 PM, I finally found a nearby place to stop.  We had not been contacted by Liscombe and were reluctant to continue another two hours to an uncertain destination.  Goldboro offered a public wharf in an easily accessible location.  Quickly changing our course, we entered a lovely protected bay and proceeded the short distance to a small dock.  We pulled into the one available space and our lines were secured by one of the fishermen on the dock.

Goldboro, an idyllic community of lovely homes and churches tucked into the lush forests surrounding the bay, had an impressive community center on the wharf.  Ladies inside were selling ice cream and snacks to the many wharf visitors.  Goldboro has only 35 residents but it is a popular local destination.  We were delighted to find this refuge from the storm.  Our dock fee was $29.00.  We would recommend Goldboro to other mariners as a great stop on the way to Halifax because of its easy accessibility (no shoals and only 2.5 nm inland) and natural beauty.

August 26                                      Port Hawkesbury, Canada 

We wanted to leave early for our long journey to the Canso Causeway.  Looking back on our previous lock experiences, we would allow plenty of waiting time.  As we departed the dock at Charlottetown, we saw a large cruise ship approaching from the channel.  We were surprised to read on the stern that it was from Rotterdam.

The water was smooth and the wind was light.  We easily crossed the Strait toward the Canso Causeway and our last lock.  Shoreline scenery was pastoral with small homes, churches, and plowed fields. 

We were astonished to come upon a pod of whales breaching in front of our boat.  From our manual, we deduced from their size and identifying characteristics, they were Pilot Whales.  This species grows to about 20 feet in size, black in color, have a highly rounded forehead, and are very gregarious.  David slowed the boat to a stop and we stood on deck in awe as they playfully flirted with us.  We counted about 20 members of the pod.  Their actions were so rapid we were unable to take good photos of this amazing sight.

Communication with the lock was instantaneous and we were advised to enter upon arrival.  As the lock goes up only about six feet, it ordinarily requires little time to enter and exit.  We were the exception.  One of the lock gates had been affected by the heat (it was a warm 85 degree day) and refused to close.  We were advised to secure our lines and wait.  After almost an hour, the problem had been solved and we were waved goodbye by the dock personnel.

Throughout the day, we were frustrated by our inability to reach anyone at the Port Hawkesbury Marina listed in our manual.  Numerous calls were answered and hung up without communication.  After considerable research, we located another number and made more calls.  As they were Port Hawkesbury was the only stop with fuel for a considerable distance, it was imperative we reach them.  As we were waiting for the lock to open, we received a call to tell us the marina would be expecting us.  What a relief!

The marina was actually a public wharf managed by a local yacht club and volunteer help.  It was easily accessible by an extended boardwalk popular with townspeople.  We needed fuel and the tank held an inadequate supply.  Walter, a member of the yacht club arranged for a fuel truck to meet us at 7:30 AM.  We were greeted many times by friendly folks who wandered to the wharf and were interested in our boat and Texas.

August 25                 Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island, Canada

John arrived as promised to assist us in pumping out the holding tank.  Red lights in the heads had indicated the tank was almost filled.  We now had taken care of all the basics.  Our holding tank was empty, our fuel tanks were full, and we had an ample supply of water on board.  Upon reaching the Strait, I went to the aft deck to check if all lines had been secured and discovered we had snagged a long length of rope which may have been adrift in the marina.  As this posed a potential danger to the props, David stopped the engines and brought in the rope with a bow hook.  One end was caught, presumably on the damaged bow thruster, but did not seem to impair its function.  The rope became disengaged shortly afterwards and we were able to pull it from the water.

Carefully evading the lobster traps in the Strait, we charted our course across to Prince Edward Island.  Charlottetown is the provincial capital of PEI and is considered a prime destination for boaters because of its large harbor and many attractions. Enroute we were excited to cruise under the magnificent Confederation Bridge which unites PEI with New Brunswick and extends more than eight miles across the Strait.  With its long row of column-like supports and arc-shaped spans, it resembles a Roman aqueduct.  Recognized as an outstanding engineering accomplishment, it is both beautiful and functional.

As we approached Charlottetown, the wind considerably diminished and our cruise was smooth and straightforward.  Heeding warnings, we carefully avoided the large shoal extending out into the entrance channel.  With deep water, we easily docked at Charlottetown Yacht Club, located only a few blocks from the bustling downtown area.  Ready to get off the boat, we quickly walked to the main street and perused the small shops lining the sidewalks, the war memorials in the park, and the few historical sites.  We also read the posted restaurant menus to find the best place for PEI mussels.

As the provincial capital, Charlottetown had many court buildings and offices for solicitors/attorneys.  It also had a large and impressive cultural center and art museum featuring mostly regional artists.  Fans of Anne of Green Gables, a popular book for girls, make pilgrimages to the local shops stocking merchandise related to the book and to the play that tells the story of this small heroine of PEI.

 The streets were busy with cars, motorcycles, and people, many who appeared to be tourists who came to Charlottetown by the large chartered buses parked nearby.  We decided Sim’s Corner would be our choice for dinner.  An outdoor table was available and we enjoyed some great people-watching.  The restaurant featured local seafood, Canadian prime beef, and vegetables from the area.  David had oysters and declared them to be superb. We both enjoyed large bowls of mussels in garlic and white wine sauce.  PEI mussels are noted for their distinctive flavor and tenderness.  Ours did not disappoint.

August 24                                         Bouctouche, New Brunswick, Canada

The dockmaster, John Walsh, met us before 9:00 AM and moved the boat by lines into place at the nearby gas dock.  At low tide, we were showing less than four feet below the stern and we did not want to engage the props.  John earlier had called his fuel distributor to deliver more diesel as his supply was less than 400 gallons.  Despite being Sunday, the distributor promptly responded.  Fueling took a very long while as the pump was slow and we held more than 500 gallons.  David and John spent the time in long conversation about the marina and families.

Shortly after 11:00 AM, John and volunteer help from the marina manned the lines and pulled us back to the main dock and deeper water.  They stood waving as we departed.  Station Wharf is scheduled to be updated in the near future.  John and other investors have obtained a large grant from the Canadian government and will expand and improve all the facilities.  Miramichi River is a renowned fly-fishing destination and popular with sportsmen.

The long journey down the river and out into the Strait was delightful as we viewed lovely, pristine homes and small churches.  Sandy beaches lined the shores and we saw many families with children in bathing suits enjoying the pleasant warm weather.

After several hours of smooth, uneventful cruising, we encountered a field of hundreds of plastic markers denoting lobster traps.  Our line cutters (the bane of lobster fishermen) had been damaged when we hit the shoal and removed by the shipyard crew.  Lobster traps are secured by heavy lines (sometimes chains) which can wrap around a prop, cause the engine to seize, and result in serious damage.  We were VERY careful to avoid them.

The channel to Bouctouche was winding and shallow in several places although we had been assured the depth was sufficient for our boat.  We tend to become anxious when our depth finder indicates less than five feet.  After 4 nm, we reached Sawmill Point, a beautiful small marina located in a lush green park and featuring a magnificent clubhouse/office.  Our dock help was another guy named John who could not have been more gracious.

For the first time in four days, we had access to internet and promptly made use of it to catch up on mail and personal matters.  Dinner was on the boat with a beautiful sunset off the aft deck.