September 7-12                               Wickford, Rhode Island

Wednesday was sunny with little wind and we finally were able to depart from Newport.  Wickford is opposite the western side of Conanicut Island and a short one hour cruise past lovely scenery and homes.  Almost immediately after passing the island, we encountered Wickford Shipyard, the first of a number of marinas in the wide channel leading to Wickford.

Wickford Shipyard is a large facility which remains privately-owned by an 88 year old who comes to the office daily.  Everything is pristine and orderly.  The marina held almost 200 boats and the owners we encountered raved about the people who worked there. We were delighted to be in such a lovely place and felt confident they would take care of our boat.

That evening, our friend from Maine, Miller Dupuis and his precious little son, Miller, Jr. came to the boat and transported us to their home in Warwick, Rhode Island.  We again reunited with Ava, his wife and met other members of the family.  Miller cooked fresh lobster from Maine and steaks we had brought from Texas.  We had a feast and a great visit in their lovely home.

The following day, we took the dinghy across the channel to Wickford, a small village with many 18^th and 19^th century homes.  The shops and restaurants were charming and people were very friendly.  We had only a brief visit but look forward to returning to see more in the spring.  This is a beautiful area with considerable historical interest and we will rent a car to do some exploring.

After cleaning the boat and making preparation for our departure, we packed bags to leave.  We were fortunate to have the help of Miller.  He came as promised, carried the luggage to his vehicle, and then transported us twenty miles to the airport near Providence. Leaving our boat is always a bittersweet event.  We were eager to return home but we treasured the memories of months of happy times and great experiences.  We were grateful we had not done any damage to ourselves or to our boat.  It had been a good summer!

September 1-6                            Newport, Rhode Island

Our crossing from Sag Harbor to Newport took approximately five hours.  The scenery was lovely and the water was smooth.  The holiday weekend had begun and boats of all sizes and types were evident as we approached Newport. An active party scene greeted us as we entered the harbor.  We always marvel at the large home built on a huge rock near the harbor entrance.  It now rents for $17,000 a week .  We were treated to a magnificent sunset!

Our marina, West Winds, was the first on our starboard side after passing the massive hulk of Fort Adams.  West Winds was not our first choice, or our second, third, fourth, or fifth choice.  Waiting to be certain we had favorable winds for crossing, I had delayed making reservations in Newport and found our favorites were filled.   We were docked on the lower end of Thames Street. We liked very much the area as it was somewhat removed from the hordes clogging the streets and shops near Bannister Wharf. 

.  The sun continued for several days after our arrival and we took a long trolley ride to see the wonderful sights of Newport, including the many mansions, the church where JFK and Jackie married, and the lovely yellow Victorian home where Ike stayed as president when he came to play golf.  The Newport Country Club looks like a miniature Versailles on an isolated plain.  Newport’s ten mile Ocean Drive rivals and probably exceeds the charm and beauty of California’s Seven Mile Beach drive. 

Unfortunately, we had three active clubs with live music surrounding us.  Music (actually noise played and sung by little talented performers) continued until 1:00 AM.   On Labor Day, the noise began at l:00 PM and continued unabated until 1:00 AM.  We tried ear plugs but they were of no help.  It was the MARINA FROM HELL!!!!  With all the other marinas filled and Tropical Storm Hermine bringing rain and winds, we could not leave. The Baylor, TCU, and Texas football games brought us hours of great entertainment despite the weather outside and the noise from the clubs.

On Labor Day, the winds were so great that David chose to remain onboard.  I went seeking a book on Newport and planned a visit to the Armory and its antique collections.  It was filled with nautical treasures, books, chandeliers, and glassware.  Later, at The Mansions Shop, I found the same lovely hat Hilary Clinton was photographed wearing at the Southampton event on Sag Harbor.  Of course, I bought it.

We had planned to leave for Wickford on Tuesday but the storm continued to bring wind and rain.  None of the boats around us were moving.  Dock help came to double our lines.  There was no music on the docks and all the furniture from the bars had been moved inside.  At one time, the wind was almost 40 knots.  We were fearful our new bridge canvas would be blown away but it remained in place.

August 30-September 1      Sag Harbor, New York

Sag Harbor is renowned for its quaint New England architecture and its popularity with the rich and famous.  In the summer, its population swells with escaping New Yorkers who come there for the cool weather and the casual upscale ambiance.  Only a few miles from Southampton, another enclave of the socially prominent, wealthy, and/or entertainment megastars, Sag Harbor is a favorite docking place for those who wish to arrive in their yachts.  Although we had not been invited to any parties, we wanted to go there and experience the scene,

  After a lovely hour and a half cruise from Greenpoint, past the many beautiful homes and scenery of Shelter Island, we turned at the long breakwater into the crowded harbor.  Sag Harbor Yacht Club is a well-maintained, lovely marina with excellent dock help and located near the Main Street of the town.  Megayachts surrounded us.  It was similar to the boat show in Florida.  Some were even moored at the edge of the harbor.  We had never before seen huge yachts on mooring balls but apparently the demand was greater than the supply for adequate dockage.  The crowded marina was evidence that other boaters, like us, had swallowed hard and paid the exceptionally expensive rate (the most we had ever paid) to stay there.

As Labor Day was approaching, we were told numerous parties and events were planned to celebrate the last weekend of summer.  A Hilary Clinton fundraiser was scheduled in Southampton.  We should have had Stephanie and Amanda with us to help identify possible celebrities.  As avid People Magazine readers, they are more knowledgeable about this than we are and could have added excitement to the visit.

As a National Historic Site, the town of Sag Harbor has maintained its authenticity as a prosperous whaling and shipbuilding center during the nineteenth century.  The buildings have been transformed into modern enterprises but manage to retain much of their original exterior charm.  We spent hours perusing the many upscale shops and stores.  Small children, dogs, and very thin, tanned women in Lily Pulitzer sheath dresses were everywhere.  

 We enjoyed visiting the excellent bookstores and food shops.  We were well-stocked on the boat and did not go to any of the many restaurants (probably a mistake!).  On our final evening in Sag Harbor, we stopped at the historic American Hotel for a drink.  Our bar companion was a delightful young woman who teaches photography at the Ross School, a local prep school.  Later some of her other friends on the faculty joined us and we had a delightful conversation about the school and its students.  As a day and boarding school, Ross has a liberal arts-based curriculum but also offers sailing, equestrian activities, multi-media digital studies, and extensive overseas programs.  Tuition for these fortunate students ranges from $35,000 to $80,000 a year.  Recent fundraisers included concerts by Prince and Billy Joel. 

We were reluctant to leave Sag Harbor but Tropical Storm Hermine was threatening to bring high winds and waves to the area.  We wanted to cross Block Island Sound to Newport before the weather turned nasty.

August 27-29                               Greenport, New York

After three days in Port Jeff, we were ready to move northward.  Greenport, a major boating destination on Long Island, was our destination.  This lovely town has retained many of the homes and buildings that existed almost two hundred years ago when whaling ships filled its harbors.  Nestled on the North Fork and shielded from the winter storms of the Sound, it was easily accessible to the Atlantic Ocean.

Our first and second marina choices were unavailable, but we secured a slip at Townsend Manor Marina, tucked into a small cove and only a few blocks from the downtown area.  The channel was narrow and fitting our 63’ boat into the assigned place was a challenge.  With excellent dock help, David again responded well and docked us without a problem.  His years of “shoehorning” our boat into the narrow space at Eagle Mountain Lake in Fort Worth gave him the experience and skills needed.  A fellow boater on the dock told us later he had watched and assumed we had a “hell of a good captain.”  He was surprised when he learned the captain was David.

We enjoyed walking into town and perusing the many shops.  At the used book store, we were greeted at the door by a thin, scraggly-bearded man who barely raised his head from his book to offer help if needed.  The store was a shambles with books, records, picture cards, and junk strewed about.  I was surprised to find a great collection of art books.  I chose one but did not think it was a bargain at $50.00 (later checked Amazon and found it was priced at $55.00).  The fellow was obviously not interested in selling.  He probably owned the building.

Another shop was packed with Italian and Spanish ceramics and resembled shops we had visited in Ravello and Seville.  Beautiful dishes, decorative items, and chandeliers tempted every shopper.  Restaurants were everywhere and enjoying good business.

Most of the lovely two and three story Victorian or Steamboat-style houses appeared to be privately owned.  We saw only a few bed and breakfasts and they were located in very large houses on spacious manicured lawns.  Greenport is meticulously clean despite the many tourists who descend there each summer.

The magnificent Greek Orthodox Church was near the marina and we were fortunate to get a glimpse into the interior.  It appeared to be very traditional with a painted ceiling and walls covered with pictures of saints.  A decorative screen obscured our view of the icons near the altar.  It was a beautiful place and one that was obviously cherished by its congregation as everything, inside and outside, was pristine.

We were pleased to be docked at Townsend Marina.  We liked the friendliness of the staff and the other boaters who preferred, like us, to be away from the hustle of the downtown marinas.  Like Danford’s in Port Jeff, Townsend Manor is a hotel located in several lovely white buildings adjacent to the marina.  Its grounds are spacious, shady, and well-maintained.  We enjoyed the quiet ambiance.

August 24-26                               Port Jefferson, New York

We were ready to move northward and the weather favored great cruising with sunny skies and little wind.  We waved goodbye to the Statue of Liberty and turned into the East River for a brief journey past one of the most familiar scenes in the world.  Iconic buildings, i.e. the Woolworth, Chrysler, United Nations, Empire State, and others, are competing with a number of newly constructed or partially constructed skyscrapers that demonstrate the incredible viability of the area.  Apparently, the instability of foreign markets has made New York real estate an excellent investment.

Hell’s Gate is a narrow opening from the East River toward Long Island Sound.  As it also is the confluence of the East River, the Harlem River, and Long Island Sound, there are eddies and strong currents which can move a vessel onto the neighboring shoals.  The Bottom Line has the power needed to overcome this challenge and we quickly cruised through, past Rikers Island (of Law and Order fame), La Guardia Airport, and into the wide expanse of Long Island Sound.  Like the Hudson River, the Sound is dotted with picturesque nineteenth century lighthouses which are now abandoned or privately owned.

After a five hour journey, we arrived at Danford’s Marina in Port Jefferson.  With a wide, deep harbor, Port Jeff is a major ferry terminus to Connecticut and a large boating capital.  The marina is adjacent to the hotel property which is a popular party and wedding venue for the area.  Occupying a number of buildings, Danford’s is an upscale resort, beautifully maintained, and surrounded by multitudes of blooming plants.  

We were pleased our friend, Joe McCormack would join us for dinner.  We walked several blocks to Pasta Pasta, an elegant, small restaurant with a great menu.  The service and food were wonderful and we had a delightful evening visiting with one of our favorite people.

David visited one of the local barber shops and experienced a haircut similar to the ones he remembered as a boy.  The semi-retired Italian barber cut his hair short and high.  He was an interesting conversationalists who favored the "old ways" and Donald Trump.  David should not require another haircut for six months!

Port Jeff is a charming place that has managed well to maintain its sense of uniqueness despite the hordes of people and cars that descend upon it from the ferry.  Everything is pristine and flowers are everywhere.  It is one of our favorite places on Long Island.