June 26-27                                    Annapolis, Maryland

With only a four hour journey to our next destination, we decided to depart later than usual.  We would enjoy Sunday breakfast at the nearby Hidden Harbor Café, a local favorite. Immaculately clean and decorated with nautical items, it held only ten small tables.  An outdoor deck accommodated larger groups and was filled with diners enjoying the delightfully sunny but cool weather. This charming waterside restaurant offered an extensive breakfast menu.  I enjoyed one of their specialty omelets and David opted for eggs and sausage gravy over biscuits.  He was in heaven!  After such indulgence, we needed the long walk back to the boat!

Shortly before eleven, we left the dock in a 4 knot wind.  Perfect cruising conditions for a powerboat!  The bay was smooth and glistening in the sunshine.  Boats of all sizes and types were everywhere.  One had to be constantly watching to be sure sailboats with sails unfurled (hoping to catch a gust of wind) did not try to cross our bow.

The beauty of the shore in this area is marred by the large facility jutting into the bay to receive liquid natural gas.  Huge liners come here and unload into an underwater tunnel that transports the product to storage tanks.  Clearly visible in the same area are the towers of a nuclear facility, another energy producing source.  Environmentalists and guardians of the bay strongly oppose the presence of both but the governmental and militaristic interests of the state are deemed more important.

Maryland’s state capitol dome is clearly visible as one enters the mouth of the Severn River which leads into the center of Annapolis. Built in 1779, it is the oldest state house in the nation in continuous use.  It was here that the Treaty of Paris, ending the Revolutionary War, was ratified by colonial leaders.  On the northern shore, the impressive dome of the chapel at the Naval Academy is a landmark sighting.

We had chosen to stay at a marina near the entrance to the bay.  Chesapeake Harbor Marina is surrounded by three-storied condos and is hidden from view.  Following our GPS, we looked for the marina but could not locate it.  Finally, we observed several boats leaving the bay and heading toward the beach where they seemed to disappear.  Locating the red and green markers, we made the same route and found an opening behind and between the condos.  With approximately 200 slips, boats were crowded into a small man-made cove.  

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Chesapeake Harbor Marina has only 15 transient slips.  We were told we could have space if we came after 3:00 PM and left before noon on Tuesday.  That fit our schedule and we agreed.  We were informed later by other boaters that the waiting time for a resident slip here is at least three years. The facilities are clean, modern, and convenient.  A small beach is on the property and a recommended seafood restaurant is within the marina.

Ahead of us on the dock was a very unusual boat.  It had a wooden hull, extensive teak trim, a wooden mast and was pristine from top to bottom.  Bernadette  is a 71' Trumpy Fantail built by John Trumpy in Annapolis in the 1950's.  It is a twin to the former presidential yacht sold by Jimmy Carter and now a charter vessel in Washington, D.C.  Only six or seven Trumpys exist.  This beautiful boat is lovingly cared for almost daily by its owner who comes to the marina to clean, polish, and enjoy.

On this evening, we went to the beach to enjoy the sunset, sat on a bench, and made profound statements on a myriad of subjects as we looked at the water, the birds and the boats.  Grateful for another beautiful day and for each other!

Monday was a good day to visit the historical center of Annapolis as the weekend crowds would be gone.  The marina shuttle transported us to the state capitol and we enjoyed strolling the streets lined with centuries-old buildings and perusing the many lovely shops.  Lunch was at Galway Irish Pub, a local favorite for corned beef Reuben sandwiches and delicious Irish potato fries.  I enjoyed the BEST crab cake and fried oysters but David declared the Reuben was "almost as good as the one you make."  Diplomatic guy!

June 25                                          Solomon’s Island, Maryland

The threat of thunderstorms and high winds was finally over and we were able to depart on Saturday in beautiful weather.  We reluctantly left Kilmarnock, the lovely marina, and our new friends.  Hoping to be in Baltimore on June 28, we would make a leisurely journey with several stops enroute.  Cruising conditions were good and we delighted in once again being underway.

Solomon’s is a popular boating haven on the Patuxent just past the wide mouth of the Potomac River.  Twelve marinas are located in its harbor and boats fill every available space.  We chose to stay at Calvert’s Marina on the opposite side from the town (which we had explored extensively twice before on previous visits).  

The owner of the marina helped us dock the boat and graciously offered any assistance.  We liked him very much and admired his industry in personally caring for a facility that held 200 slips.  We had a great view of the harbor and enjoyed a lingering sunset as we sat on the bow and watched boats coming and going in front of us.

June 17-June 24                          Kilmarnock, Virginia

Eager to move on, I unwisely chose to leave for Kilmarnock though the weather reports indicated rain and winds of 12 kts.  I calculated we would be out of the bay and into Indian Creek, a sheltered area, before the rain and winds came.  I was wrong.  We entered the bay from the Rappahannock at precisely the time the storm broke with torrential rain, fog, and winds that exceeded the forecast.

We headed into a strong northwest wind and experienced considerable turbulence.  Although I had latched the door to the freezer compartment of the refrigerator, the large upper door was not latched.  A horrible crescendo ensued as the door swung open, hitting the side of the galley booth and multiple items from the shelves fell to the floor.  I was helpless to do anything about it as going below would endanger my safety.  For more than thirty minutes, I listened to repetitive banging of the door and crashing of bottles and containers. 

We finally turned into Indian Creek and I was able to go below and latch the door.  The galley was a mess with food and cooking utensils littering the floor.  We reached the lovely Chesapeake Boat Basin marina in sunshine and calm winds. Given a choice of washing the salt from the exterior of the boat or cleaning the galley, David, to my great relief, chose the latter.  It took almost an hour but he did a great job of putting everything in order (and no recriminations for me!)

Our dockage was at the head of a beautiful creek surrounded by lush greenery and charming homes.  The marina staff was friendly and a courtesy car was available for our use.  We decided to stay for several days and enjoy the ambiance and amenities. David was having difficulty filling a needed prescription (the details are too laborious and boring to relate) and we decided our best option was to contact the Walgreen’s in Kilmarnock and take advantage of the courtesy car to go there.  Nothing could be done until Monday so we would extend our stay.  An hour trolley ride through Kilmarnock and Irvington gave us a good introduction to the area.

On Saturday, the marina hosted a delightful cookout on the veranda of the clubhouse.  Hamburgers, hot dogs, brats, and steamed crab were accompanied by a wonderful assortment of salads, breads, and snacks.   We met Al and Mary Boutin, who live on their DeFever44 in Kilmarnock most of the year.  Widely traveled and with considerable boating experience, they were interesting conversationalists.  To our surprise, they had lived in Arlington, Texas for fifteen years and fondly remembered their stay there.

Kilmarnock, named by an early settler for a town in Scotland, is a pretty small town with a main street lined with shops, restaurants, and businesses. Walmart is located on the outskirts of town.  The village atmosphere of Kilmarnock is appreciated by many tourists who come to enjoy this part of Virginia.  A favorite local eatery is Lee’s, which is a throwback to the fifties in décor and food.  David indulged in liver and onions and we shared a fantastic slice of coconut pie.  We agreed the reputation of Lee’s was well-deserved.  David finally was able to get his prescription filled at Walgreen’s but we were reluctant to leave Kilmarnock.  More to see!

For many years during this nation’s early history, the enormous Carter plantation (reputedly more than 300,000 acres) encompassed most of the land in this, the Northern Neck part of the state.  Robert “King” Carter was prominent in Virginia governmental affairs and his descendants include three signers of the Declaration of Independence, two U.S. presidents, eight Virginia governors, a Chief Justice of the Supreme Court and Robert E. Lee.  On family land and at his own expense, he built the magnificent Christ Church, which today is one of the most important Georgian structures in America.  Only a few miles from Kilmarnock and down a heavily wooded, winding road, the restored church dominates the spacious grounds surrounding it.

A knowledgeable and very pleasant docent gave us a tour of the church and explained the intricacies of its architecture and the histories of some of the people who had once sat in its high-backed pews and preached from its rare triple tiered pulpit.   We found it to be fascinating and marveled at the levels of skill and effort required to construct such a beautiful building during a time when most structures were quite simple and ordinary.

In Irvington, only a few miles from Christ Church, I located Village Needlepoint, a beautiful little shop with an amazing supply of thread, canvases, and other supplies.  I was delighted to find the thread I needed to finish my needlepoint project.  This shop was a place where one would love to come and spend the day stitching with friends.  I was told this was often true as stitchers in the area make this a destination where they come to sew, learn, and share lunch at a nearby restaurant.  In November, this small shop in a tiny village in a remote area of the state, hosts a three day Needlepoint Retreat at The Tides, a renowned, upscale, resort a few miles down the road.  It is a popular event!

Despite more than ample food on board, we chose to have lunch at another locally acclaimed restaurant.  Northern Neck Hamburgers has won accolades for their delicious and creative food.  We chose hamburgers with caramelized onions, garlic mayonnaise, perfectly cooked beef and soft fresh buns.  David added grilled pineapple to his and raved that it was the best hamburger he had ever eaten.  Twisters, homemade potato chips dusted In Old Bay Seasoning, are a decadent accompaniment.  Spicy and crisp!

Thursday evening was an opportunity to have guests aboard.  Al and Mary were joined by Susan and Fred, also DeFever owners who recently arrived at the marina.  We love learning about fellow boaters and these couples were especially interesting.  Susan is a cancer survivor whose motor skills have been impaired by chemo.  Sadly, she is no longer capable of making the prize-winning expensive lace wedding dresses and confirmation gowns that earned her recognition and a trip to France to visit lace making industries.  With an upbeat attitude, she has accepted this dramatic change in her life and optimistically enjoys each day.  Mary is also an accomplished seamstress who made most of the canvas for their boat in addition to interior curtains, etc.

June 14-June 16                          Urbanna, Virginia

 With engines purring, we left Portsmouth and headed toward the Rappahannock River on the western shore of Virginia.  The wind was a pleasant 8kts and cruising conditions were ideal.  White beaches and lovely beach homes lined the shore of the bay.  Near Deltaville, we turned into the wide mouth of the Rappahannock and headed upstream toward Urbanna.

The well-marked channel is deep but, like most of the bay, the river becomes very shallow a considerable distance from shore.  We had been cautioned about shoaling at R2 marker as we entered the entrance to Upton Creek, which would take us to our marina in Urbana.  David carefully lined up with the green markers and we safely made it to Bridge Marina.

After docking, we walked four short blocks into town and learned most stores open only on Thursday, Friday and Saturday.  We saw the lovely Victorian homes and churches, read the historical markers and admired the beautiful gardens.  In Virginia, two names are ubiquitous--Carter and Lee. Both families were renowned for their wealth or their military prowess.  Robert E. Lee was doubly blessed as his mother was a Carter.  Urbana boasts of the beautiful antebellum home of Alfred Lee, still privately owned.    

    
                                                                                                                                                                                          
We stopped at the Neanderthal Café, Home of Righteous Ribs and Bodacious Butts (a barbeque place) for a cool drink and experience some local food (soft shell crab was a specialty item).

David began a conversation with a fellow customer at the bar and learned he had recently published a book.  Garry Fitchet is a native of Urbanna but has lived and worked in many places.  A successful Domino’s franchise owner, he sold the business and became a trainer and motivational leader.  His book is an effort to help others determine what they truly want in life and what matters most in achieving happiness and success.  Life is a Bicycle (If You Stop Pedaling You Fall Off) is the clever theme of the book.  We were impressed with Garry’s candor and conversation about his experiences.  Hopefully, his book will become an inspiration to those who are seeking guidance in their careers and life.

We were fortunate to be present in Urbana for the first day of trolley service for the summer season.  We had a delightful tour of this small, charming village with its many pristine homes, beautiful lawns, and historic churches.  No Walmart’s or franchise restaurants here!  Urbana is a friendly town where everyone we met wanted to engage in conversation and offer any help we might need.

Bridge Marina is owned by John and Barbara who live in a beautiful yellow home overlooking the property.  The office/clubhouse is new, modern, and immaculate.  The floating docks have recently been rebuilt and most were filled with permanent slip-holders.  It is definitely one of the best marinas we have encountered on Chesapeake Bay.

June 12-June 14                          Portsmouth, Virginia

We were glad we had stayed for Harborfest. The fireworks display over the Elizabeth River was the best we had ever witnessed.  For thirty minutes, dual synchronized fireworks burst above us.  Our seats on the bow of the boat were perfect to enjoy every one. 

On Monday, we readied the boat for departure, paid our bills at the marina, turned in the EZ Pass for all the tolls and the rental car.  Tuesday morning, we rose early, disconnected all the lines, started the engines, and then experienced an unexpected problem.  One of the engines died and refused to start.  John, the service manager came immediately.

After an hour, it was determined one fuel tank (we have two) held a lot of water.  Pumping ensued and more than 15 gallons of water were removed from the tank!  We had fueled several days earlier from a source on the dock which had not been in service for several weeks.  We were the first to receive fuel after its repair.  Apparently, the lines or tank had been invaded by water from the heavy rains during the idle period.  We were the fortunate boaters who received all that water into our fuel tanks.

After making sure the water had been removed and performing other cautionary measures, the engines were again started.  They ran for more than an hour without problems.  Our planned destination was a five hour journey from Portsmouth and it was decided to delay the trip another day.

June 5-June 11                            Portsmouth, Virginia

Monday was a sunny day and the non-skid project was underway.  The fumes from the chemicals were strong and pungent.  We decided to leave the marina and go to Yorktown for a Revolutionary War history trip with me as the guide.  David indulges me by being a capable driver, willing participant, and enthusiastic lunch companion.

Historical Yorktown is separate from Yorktown proper and is an idyllic re-creation of a colonial village.  It is located near the battlefield where Washington’s troops defeated those of Lord Cornwallis resulting in the surrender that ended the Revolutionary War.   A magnificent visitors’ center with a small museum of artifacts from the period provides additional information.  The lobby held a copy of the Winged Victory of Samothrace which honored the triumph of the colonial army.    Numerous shops and inns were nearby and the small beach area was crowded with bathers and umbrellas.  We made a self-driving tour of the battlefield, now a grassy plain dotted with reconstructed redoubts which served as bunkers for the colonial and British soldiers.

The non-skid project progressed well, and with good weather predicted for the remainder of the week, we chose to have the bridge area done before departing from Portsmouth.  It is difficult to find competent people who have skills to work on boats.  John and Josh have been exceptional.  We needed to take advantage of this opportunity to finish the job.

To our delight, we learned Harborfest, a highlight of the summer season, would be held this weekend.  Numerous boats would come into the marina, the harbor would be crowded with moorings, and there would be a great parade of tall ships in the Elizabeth River.  All activities would be in view of our dock!  This was another reason to stay longer in Portsmouth.

John scheduled Josh and Jamar to work on the bridge non-skid project but there was an unexpected snag.  The additional gallon of paint we thought we had for the job had been used on the decks.  West Marine, our usual supplier, did not have more in stock and none could be had until next week.  Eager to utilize the availability of workers and good weather, we began an internet search.  A distributor in Norfolk had it in stock but we had to go through a dealer in Portsmouth to acquire it.  We needed the paint by Thursday morning so we contacted the dealer who agreed to order the paint and have the distributor in Norfolk release it to us.  We drove to Norfolk, brought the paint to the boat, and work proceeded as planned.   Tenacity pays off!! The work was finished on Thursday and the result was amazing.  With the work done by Miller on the exterior of the boat and the new non-skid on the decks, The Bottom Line looked better than when we purchased it more than six years ago.

Harborfest began on Friday with a great parade of sailing vessels of all shapes and sizes.  It was a fun event and we joined others on the dock bordering the Elizabeth River for a wonderful view.  Thousands more were lining the Norfolk side of the river.  The parade began with showers from multiple fire boats, followed by navy and coast guard vessels and a flotilla of small boats decorated with flags and laden with celebrating boaters.  Historic schooners were joined by the Libertad, a 103 m. steel-hulled sailing vessel that serves as a school for the Argentine navy.  With cadets and dignitaries on board, multiple flags flying from masts, and its impressive white hull, the Libertad was definitely the highlight of the show.  Following the parade, a Carnival Cruise Line ship docked near the festival site in Norfolk and passengers joined the crowd already assembled there. 

We decided to wait until evening to go across, hoping to avoid the horde of visitors and the inevitable baby strollers. We took the charming water taxi from the marina to the festival site and joined the celebrants.  As expected, food trucks or booths, crafts vendors, musicians, and entertainment were in abundance.  The waterside area was a great venue for the event.   Covered in grass with trees for shade and ample docking space for the parade boats and the Carnival cruise ship, it provided a spacious and comfortable location for this popular annual festival.  The Waterside Pavilion, once the home of restaurants and shops, is now a vacant shell of a building.  Restoration is in progress and it will re-open next year.

After meandering through the exhibits, listening to various musicians, and witnessing a myriad of crowd sights (including a number of tattooed women—WHY?), we took the ferry across the river to Portsmouth.  There we joined a small group on the civic lawn listening to an excellent musical group.  It was a scene of America at its best with a small-town familiarity that would have inspired Norman Rockwell