August 23                                      Miramichi, New Brunswick, Canada

As promised, the prop and shaft repair crew arrived at 7:00 AM and promptly began installing the straightened shafts and the spare props.  Despite the heavy weight of the props, stored in the hold below the galley, they were removed without incident using a hoist mounted next to the port side of the boat.

At 10:30, I was informed I must leave the boat for they were ready to put it back into the water.  Another crew from the shipyard had arrived to make possible this Saturday departure.  We were grateful and humbled by their concern for us on a day when they usually would not be working.  John Boucher, the general manager of the facility had become a special friend.  He made certain the work was done and  we were safe and comfortable in our "penthouse boat" more than 20 feet above the ground.  

After the boat had been placed into the water, I began to board but was stopped by the foreman of the crew who gave me the European kiss on both cheeks.  The other men followed and I felt like a prom queen!!  David started the engines and we moved out into the bay.  The new props worked beautifully.  The feeling of once again being on our journey was indescribable.  The knots of tension between my shoulders began to relax.

Marinas on the Northumberland Strait are limited in depth and dockage size.  As we left Caraquet late (almost noon), we had few choices for our evening stay.  Although it was located more than twenty miles upriver, Miramichi seemed to be a good choice.  The Bottom Line is more than 17 meters in length and most marinas offer little dockage for boats more than 15 meters.

We turned into the Miramichi River at 7:00 PM.  The GPS indicated we would arrive at the marina by 9:00 PM.  This would be just before the last light was gone.  Although marked by red and green buoys, the river channel was twisting and shallow.  We had to slow our speed and the sun disappeared about thirty minutes before we reached our destination.  With his usual calm and common sense, David proceeded without incident to the rustic marina located just before the giant Centennial Bridge that spans the river.

As promised, the dockmaster and several helpers were on the dock waiting for us.  Within minutes, we were docked and our long day’s journey had been successfully completed.  Dinner was on the boat.

August 21-22                                       Caraquet, New Brunswick, Canada

We were at the Centre naval du Nouveau Brunswick before 8:30 AM. Dock help was waiting for us.  We quickly were placed in the slings for haul out and moved to the adjacent dock.  In a short time, the prop people arrived to survey the damage.  We were distressed to learn the shafts, both props, and the port stabilizer unit was damaged.  The anterior and posterior hull had damage and water was coming through a small opening in the bow.  We were immediately impressed with the skill and knowledge of the people who were trying to help us. 

Fiberglass people were on site and began to work within a few hours.  The shaft and props were removed and taken to a repair facility.  The boat, held aground with blocks under the keel and securing units, was a pathetic sight.  When the yard help learned we wanted to board the boat, they mounted a large metal ladder to the deck so we could safely and easily come abroard.  We had decided to stay on the boat rather than go to a motel.  Electricity was provided and we had plenty of water.  The shipyard agreed to let us stay on the boat (highly unlikely in the U.S. due to OSHA and insurance limitations).  

David’s efforts to rent a car were unsuccessful.  One of the workmen insisted on leaving his very nice pickup for us to drive and we were given keys to the gates if we wanted to come in after the facility had closed.  We were again overwhelmed by the generosity of the people of this town.

As it seemed possible our return to Texas would be delayed, we decided to refill two prescriptions (one for each of us).  We were told this could only be done when approved by a doctor in New Brunswick.    An appointment with a doctor would be secured sometime in the next week.  As we were scheduled to leave within a few days, we were advised to go to the emergency room of the community hospital.  Using our loaned vehicle, we went to the hospital and were efficiently processed through admitting.  We were informed the cost would be $570 CD per person!  Hoping our insurance would cover some of this huge expense, we accepted the charge.  We saw a nurse practitioner who asked for our recent medical history and then wrote prescriptions for our medications.

No word about the shafts was received until after 5:00 PM on Friday.   They had been repaired and the crew would arrive at 7:00 AM to install them.  Although it would be Saturday, the shipyard crew would be present three hours later to take the boat from the dock back into the water.  We are hopeful no additional problems occur that further delays our journey.

August 20                                            Caraquet, New Brunswick, Canada

As promised, at 9:00 AM and high tide, our dock help arrived to help us negotiate the difficult maneuvering required to take our large boat from the restricted dock space.  With his usual calm and skillful piloting, David quickly moved us away from the dock and turned expertly into the large expanse of the St. Lawrence.  The weather was great and we were excited to have a long day of cruising.

The GPS was programmed to take us past the shoals.  I brought in the fenders and knelt down to secure the small ladder we had decided to leave attached to the boat when a tremendous jolt pushed me forward toward the ladder opening.  I grasped the railing and held myself on deck.  A horrible noise indicated we had hit a shoal, not marked and not indicated on the GPS, hidden by the high tide. 

We were immediately aware we had sustained prop damage.  Knowing we had no help at Chandler, we decided to continue our journey.  Our maximum speed was 7 knots without incurring considerable vibration.  David perused our manual and found a shipyard at Caraquet located across the Bay of Chaleurs.  The weather was wonderful and we easily made it to Caraquet.

Our journey was marred by our damage but the excellent weather and beautiful shoreline scenery were pleasant distractions.  We were delighted to see the huge hulk of Perce Rock, a red granite monolith extending far into the water and one of the most photographed sites in Canada. Across from it was the I’lle-Bonaventure, a favorite site for birdwatchers who come to view the huge population of northern gannets and other birds that nest here every summer.

 We could find no information for the Caraquet shipyard so we passed it and continued to the harbor marina, a rustic facility with predominately fishing boats in their docks.  The harbor master saw our boat and told us we were too large to dock there.  I pleaded we had sustained damage and needed to come in.  He graciously came to hold our lines and help us secure our 58’ boat into a dock meant for a 30’ foot vessel.  Hearing our tale of woe, he called the shipyard and made arrangements for us to be there at 8:30 AM to be pulled and have our props replaced with the spares we had on board.

We needed cash to pay the shipyard so we climbed the treacherous ladder from the dock onto the wharf and walked four blocks to the grocery store and the nearest ATM.  Of course, David had to make a long, long stroll through every aisle.  His purchases were limited by the fact we would be carrying everything. o Determined to bring some happiness into this special day of our anniversary, he surprised me with a beautiful bouquet of red roses.  What a guy!!

The wharf, only four feet behind our aft deck, was a popular nocturnal place.  Cars, motorcycles, and bicycles came slowly through the area as the drivers were perusing the boats in the marina and several stopped to inquire about the visitors from Texas.

August 19                                                        Chandler, Canada

Chandler seemed to be the perfect place to stop before we crossed the Bay of Chaleurs, noted for its high afternoon winds.  Morning rain and wind caused us to reconsider venturing from the marina, however, a favorable report from Chandler encouraged us to continue our journey.

We were instructed that entrance to the marina had to be on a high tide.  We arrived an hour too early and floated about in the bay.  Noting the many marked and unmarked shoals at the entrance to the marina, we made plans to take a wide arc around them upon departure.

The marina, reportedly a full-service marina, was very small and very tight.  The fuel dock was at the end of the marina and with the help of numerous dock help, David expertly parallel-parked our boat, which appeared gigantic to the others in the marina.  The dock help was excellent.  Diesel fuel supplies were limited and we drained their tanks with 300 gallons.

Simon, the dockmaster, invited us to his sailboat for rum and coke.  We spent a delightful hour with him and three of his friends and gained considerable information about the small marinas in this area.  Marinas are government funded and staffed by volunteers.  Simon was a lawyer who specialized in labor negotiations but he loved sailing and he was thrilled to be a volunteer for part of the summer at the marina in Chandler.

Dinner was at the recommended marina restaurant.  On the second floor of the marina office building, the restaurant had an incredible view over the breakwater to the wide expanse of water beyond.  The service and food were excellent.  I had morue, a local fish which was wonderful.  David had escargot and mushrooms in a vodka tomato sauce as an appetizer and langoustines for his entrée.   We spent a delightful evening recalling sixty years previously when we were at our wedding rehearsal dinner at the Liberty Grill in Cleburne, Texas.  The menu had been considerably different!  Looking out at a fabulous view, we recalled many happy times and wonderful people who had contributed to our lives in our sixty years of marriage.

August 18          Riviere de Reynaud, Canada

We were determined to make the 90 nm journey to Riviere de Reynaud despite weather reports that showed light rain and winds of up to 11 mph.  We left the dock at 7:30 AM with clear skies and negligible winds.  We were delighted to have great visibility and we enjoyed viewing the charming villages we passed.  The mountains became taller and the granite cliffs steeper as we continued on our route.

Fog suddenly enveloped us and once again we were navigating via GPS and radar with zero visibility.  The wind was not a significant factor so we continued smoothly on our route.  These long cruises involve intermittent naps for both of us and lots of needlepoint for me.  About an hour from our destination, the wind considerably increased, the water became very choppy, and the boat was buffeted by waves.  Not a pleasant experience!

The harbor at Riviere de Reynaud is protected behind another huge stone breakwater.  The marina shares dockage with the large commercial fishing fleet that has made this a mecca for seafood processors.  We were assigned a great place on the new dock.  Our dock hand was Robert, a recently arrived sailor who volunteered to secure our lines.  He spoke excellent English and had a delightful sense of humor.

The rain continued and we were restricted to the boat.  The lovely village ahead of the marina was beckoning but we were reluctant to venture that far in the rain.   After dark, we saw the large lighted cross next to a small church on the hill.  The village, situated at the foot of the mountain, was postcard-perfect.  Reluctantly we decided to spend the evening on the boat and plan for the next days.

August 17                                         Sainte Anne des Mont, Canada

After our previous arduous day, we elected to make a short cruise of six hours to Sainte Anne des Mont, one of Canada’s premier winter playgrounds.  We had a great day for cruising with sun and little wind.  The scenery was spectacular.  The verdant hills were dotted with small villages, red-roofed cottages, and steepled churches. 

Behind a formidable breakwater of huge granite boulders, the marina provided excellent shelter and great docking facilities.  With only 15 amp electricity available, we kept our generator running.  As it is very quiet and uses little fuel, this is not a problem.  Docking was again facilitated by the aid of several boaters who assisted the lone harbor master.  Dockage fee was only $1.25 per foot!

We left the boat to explore the adjacent area with its locally renowned seafood restaurant and enormous Catholic Church made of native stone. The area was nondescript with a few stores and government offices.  Most of the businesses were located on the long highway that extended for miles along the mountainside.

 Two blocks past the marina, we found a Metro Plus, one of Canada’s largest supermarket chains.  

Supermarkets have the same emotional appeal to David as art museums do for me. He likes to walk slowly through each aisle (he will skip baby food and pet supplies) and peruse every label.  This can take a very long time. I have always vowed I would NEVER follow a man through the aisles of a grocery store as I have often seen others do at home.  When I caught myself doing this, I quickly walked away and told David to meet me at the cashier station.  Fortunately, his choices and quantities were limited by the fact we were walking and carrying whatever we bought. After reading the menu of the restaurant, we opted to have dinner on the boat.  David made a wonderful clams and spaghetti dish that would rival any others. 
 

August 16            Matane, New Brunswick, Canada

Trying to adhere to a schedule that would bring us into Halifax by August 26 in order that we could return to Texas in time for the blessed event of Baylor playing its first football game in its new stadium, I charted a long day of cruising across the wide expanse of the St. Lawrence from its northern shore to its southern shore. 

Leaving Taduassac before 8:00 AM, we soon captured the speed of a high tide.  Wind was minimal and at times, the water was glassy smooth.  The incredible contrast of blues in the sky, clouds, and water was amazing.  It was a perfect day for making the long cruise across the St. Lawrence. 

With smooth seas and a boat that was performing exceptionally well, we relaxed and took turns at the helm.  Unfortunately, this serenity changed abruptly about three hours from our destination.  Wind velocity increased considerably, a light rain began, and the water became choppy.  The boat was tossed as we fought the wind, waves, and current. 

Matane Marina had English-speaking help and we were able to have them meet us on arrival at their fuel dock.  Since diesel fuel is not available at some marinas on our journey, we have elected to fuel at every opportunity.  With a strong cross-wind, David had difficulty bringing the boat into the small, rustic dock for fuel.  The dock help was inadequate for the task and suddenly several boaters appeared to help us secure the boat for fueling.  Later, they appeared again despite the rain to help us dock for our stay.  They were gone almost before we could express our gratitude.

It had been a long ten-hour day.  Dinner on the boat and phone calls to family and friends brought our activities to a close.  We were ready for a respite.