June 12-23                           Southwest Harbor, Maine

The lovely cool weather continued unchanged for days and we made excuses to delay work and stay outdoors as much as possible.  Journeys to Bar Harbor, Ellsworth and Bass Harbor were opportunities to admire the floral displays of rhododendrons, lupines, lilacs and iris.  We made a quick visit again to Thula Gardens near Northeast Harbor to see the massive bushes of pink rhododendrons. 

David continues to be occupied with an important business sale for one of his clients and is on the phone and computer several hours each day.  All is going well but it is a complicated matter with numerous items to be resolved.  He is enjoying the challenges.  I have read several delightful mysteries, checked out from the local library, and continued my needlepoint project.  The latter is a design kit depicting a portion of a tapestry in the Victoria and Albert Museum by C.F.A. Voysey, whose work is similar to that of William Morris.  Unfortunately, one of the yarns was a garish green which I found offensive but continued to utilize.   After completing a large portion of the design in that color, I made a decision that needlepointers avoid if at all possible.  I would remove all that garish green by laboriously extracting hours of work.  The task was finally completed and I was fortunate to find the preferred color of yarn in a local shop.  Hopefully, the project will be finished in my lifetime!

We were delighted when Marcee and Jon Henderson, friends from Fort Worth and parents of Taft, longtime boyfriend of Kennedy, our granddaughter, called us from Bar Harbor.  They had just completed a ten-day trek on the Appalachian Trail.  Starting in Georgia, the designated beginning of the Trail, they hiked in fourteen states to the northern end in Maine.  Hikes were interspersed with automobile transportation between sites.  They chose to stay in hotels rather than camp out.  Jon stated Marcee did not like to rough it!  An avid runner, she regularly runs five miles each day so she is fit and able to make the long hikes on the Trail.

Jon and Marcee were our guests for dinner at Havana, one of Bar Harbor’s best restaurants.  The guys enjoyed an assortment of local oysters and Marcee and I had delicious strawberry, feta and spinach salads.  Entrees were paella and halibut followed by decadent desserts.  The ambiance was perfect, quiet and dimly lighted, the service was attentive and we declared the food to be exceptional.  Havana merits their great reviews!

The following day, we picked up Marcee and Jon for a day of touring.  Our first stop was the Romanesque Gothic church, St. Savior Episcopal, which for more than one hundred years has been a prominent structure in Bar Harbor.  It has benefited from wealthy congregants who chose to memorialize loved ones with magnificent stained-glass windows.  Ten of these windows are by Louis Comfort Tiffany.  We were awed by the beautiful sanctuary with its wooden vaults lighted by sunshine streaming through windows of multi-colored glass.

We stopped next at Thula Gardens, high above Northeast Harbor, to view the gardens and lodge of the man who created this beautiful place.  Maintained primarily by devoted volunteers, everything is pristine.  The lodge is a reminder of a long past time with a massive soapstone sink, woodburning stove and an icebox with ice tongs hanging overhead.  Most of the furnishings are original.

After a quick visit to The Bottom Line in Southwest Harbor, we drove to Bass Harbor for lunch on the terrace overlooking the water filled with small craft.  Seafood Ketch is always a good choice for dining with casual atmosphere and very good food.  Their sweet potato fries are so delicious that David orders them for appetizers!

Amply reinforced by food, we continued to Seal Cove and the Antique Car Museum.  Located miles from the major tourist sites but renowned for its exceptional collection of domestic and foreign automobiles.  The display emphasis had changed since last year with many never before seen vehicles accompanied by advertising of the periods.  It was fun to see again a video of the beautiful Dinah Shore belting out her signature opening number, “See the USA in your Chevrolet.”  It was an advertising phenomenon of the 1950’s and those “of a certain age” can sing it today.  

Shortly before five, we returned our guests to the Bar Harbor Inn and bade them goodbye until we meet again in Fort Worth.  They were returning home for two days, repacking and heading out the door to fly to Europe for an extended trip to France, Italy and Greece.  Kennedy and Taft will join them in July.  Jon is making the most of his summer sabbatical.

On Thursday evening, we attended the annual Library Dinner at the Claremont Hotel.  Fortunately, I had bought tickets shortly after our arrival for it was again a sold-out affair.  Southwest Harbor residents value their charming little library which is a community treasure.  I value it, too, and make frequent visits during our stay each summer.  The Claremont is a large yellow wooden hotel built in 1880.  It is maintained well and remains popular with visitors.  Situated on a small hill, its expansive lawn with a manicured croquet court, overlooks Soames Sound, one of Maine’s most photographed sites.

We seemed to be the only non-locals in attendance but were quickly made to feel welcome.  After drinks and appetizers on the veranda, we were seated in the charming dining area and served a wonderful dinner of fresh salmon (or steak) with strawberry shortcake for dessert.  The service and the food were excellent.  There were no long speeches and we enjoyed talking with other guests, most “from away” who shared a love of Coastal Maine and moved here after careers elsewhere.

David enjoys silent auction bidding and he was successful in winning three items which we will enjoy:  a cruise to view seals and some of the small islands near Southwest Harbor, a nature walk with a local botanist and a small plane sightseeing tour of Acadia National Park.  We will share these experiences with our family members who will come in July and August.

2018 Return to Maine

May 27-June 11                                          Southwest Harbor, Maine

We were eager to return to Southwest Harbor and The Bottom Line but once again our trip was delayed.  David had a persistent ear problem that could be exacerbated by flight pressure.  We waited a week and then, armed with all sorts of antihistamines and other medications, David insisted he was ready for the trip.  Fortunately, he experienced no aural discomfort and slept most of the way to Bangor.

Micah, the dockmaster and our good friend, greeted us warmly and carried our luggage to the boat which waited in the same docking position as the previous year.  Recently removed from storage, the boat’s exterior had been thoroughly cleaned and the interior was free of dust.  What a great way to be welcomed to Maine!  From the aft deck, we had a lovely view of the expansive harbor, filled with small craft and mooring balls, partially hidden behind the breakwater of massive granite blocks.  The osprey nest remained at the top of the marker designating the breakwater.  There was no visible activity but we will keep watch for future occupants.

Our next days were spent checking the systems to be sure all was well and enjoying the great marina ambiance.  It soon became obvious we were experiencing a familiar problem.  The holding tank for the heads was filled and would require a pump-out.  This had resulted from the failure of the storage crew to properly adjust a seacock valve that admits seawater.  Fortunately, David was able to go below and make the necessary adjustments and the problem was quickly solved.

The boating season in Maine usually begins after June 15 and becomes most active in July and August.  Our marina was mostly occupied by lobster boats and small locally-owned recreational boats.  We were pleased Peter and Kim with their big shaggy dog Jack were once again docked near us.  They live in New Brunswick but keep their boat at Southwest Harbor and make the two-hour drive to spend long weekends here.  Other close boating buddies, Linda and Phil Hardberger and Jill Cohen and Jerry Orloff will not be joining us this summer.

Five days of wonderful weather with sunshine and light breezes encouraged us to make forays to Bass Harbor for a great lunch at Seafood Ketch, Ellsworth for fresh Spring Rolls at Shinbashi, our favorite Asian restaurant, and drives through the countryside to re-acquaint us with the old and let us view the new.  The sunshine enhanced the dark green foliage of the forests and expedited the blooming of fields of pink and lavender lupines and white and yellow daisies.  Bushes of lilacs, covered with either white, pink, fuchsia or lavender blooms, were seen in most yards.  Rhododendrons, the queen of azaleas, presented a magnificent display which will last for several weeks.  Maine in early summer is actually a floral extravaganza.

Three days of rain finally ended with a brilliant afternoon of sun and warmth.  Time to go to Bar Harbor and celebrate with a special dinner.  We arrived early and had time to explore the charming downtown area.  A small cruise ship was departing but there were many people left on the streets and in the stores enjoying the fabulous weather.

The only French restaurant in Bar Harbor is Mache Bistro, located in a small nondescript old home on the main street.  The menu was limited but diverse and definitely nouvelle French.  My appetizer was a white asparagus salad with a grilled salmon entrée.  David enjoyed white anchovies and roasted lamb.  The food was excellent, the ambiance understated and quiet, and the service friendly and attentive.  We will definitely return!

A welcome indication that David has made considerable recovery from the persistent pain and weakness of last summer is his renewed interest in doing tasks on the boat.  He spent several days in the engine rooms organizing his shelves of tools and cleaning to make easier access.  In addition, he has kept busy on the phone and computer with business projects.  Fewer long afternoon naps interfere with his progress this year!

Micah brought us four medium lobsters from the catch of the lobster boat on our dock.  The season for lobster is still early and therefore, most of those caught have soft shells.  We like those best because they are easier to crack and have a sweeter taste.  Two lobsters made dinner and the others were enjoyed the next day for lobster rolls.  I am trying to emulate the “best lobster rolls ever” served at the Dry Dock Restaurant in Southwest Harbor—lots of lobster, minced celery, garlic salt, lemon juice and just a taste of mayonnaise served on a buttered toasted roll.  Simple and delicious!  The hard part is procuring fresh Maine lobster cooked in seawater if you are not in Maine!

After our departure for home last year, Miller continued to finish some maintenance tasks.  As Pretzel had ruined the carpet on the aft deck, Miller removed it and laboriously sanded, primed and applied several coats of non-skid paint to the area.  It looks fabulous and once again we are grateful for his skill.  Perusing most of the home décor sites on the internet, we eventually found exactly the rug we wanted—a 9’ red round indoor/outdoor braided rug.  It was ordered, shipped and installed within days.  The aft deck looks great and we are very pleased.

August 16-22                                  Southwest Harbor, Maine

With the exception of one day, in our final week of summer in Maine we experienced exceptionally beautiful weather.  It was delightful to feel the cool breezes waft through the salon and watch the water in the harbor glisten in the sunshine.  The osprey babies were finally visible as they teetered on the nest carefully watching their parents come and go.  Ospreys mate for life, separate in the fall with males going off alone and females doing the same.  They reunite each spring on the same nest and begin anew the process of breeding.  Apparently, the babies abandon the parents and establish their own families.  It’s fascinating to think of them reuniting after lengthy separations.

Jill came with to the boat to show us her wonderful needlepoint project.  It is a large wall hanging based on the intricate and colorful tile designs of Gaudi in Barcelona.  It will be a masterpiece and she guesses it will take several years to complete.  She promised to keep me posted on her progress.

We were ready for some company on the boat and invited Jill and Jerry to join us for dinner.  We served barbequed ribs (made from a recipe of Joe Usher’s) which were tender and delicious.  I made macaroni and a four-cheeses sauce dish that turned out well.  It was fun to have them with us again.

 

Jill grew up in Portland and her mother, an actress, often accepted roles outside of the state.  In 1974, she was a bit player, with several speaking parts, in the classic summer thriller, Jaws.  Jill, as her mother’s heir, is the recipient of residuals from the showing of the movie.  We were impressed! 

Mary and Ed Dysart, owners of the marina, are fans of the movie and planned a special showing on Sunday evening inviting many of the boaters to their lovely residence.  Situated high above the marina, their summer home is a renovated former cannery which was later converted to a dinner-theater.  From a broad deck overlooking the harbor, it opens to a spacious main room with a kitchen area at the rear.  Former dressing rooms are now lovely small bedrooms.  The theater bathrooms remain with stalls and showers.  With a predominant nautical theme, it is absolutely charming and can accommodate many guests.

For the movie showing, sofas had been elevated as if in a theater and a popcorn machine provided additional atmosphere as did a large selection of giant-size candy bars and bags.  Most of us had seen Jaws more than once but still reacted in horror when the iconic music played or the beast suddenly came into view.  Jill pointed out her mother (lovely slim brunette who looked and sounded much like her daughter today) in various scenes.  It was a fun evening.

Before leaving for the boat, we were presented with a small cake with the numerals 63 on top to mark the occasion of our sixty-third wedding anniversary.  It was a thoughtful and generous gesture of special friends and a total surprise!  

Now the packing and cleaning have begun as we prepare to leave the boat and return home.  We have loved spending the summer in Maine and fervently hope we will be able to return here next year to enjoy again marina life and reunite with good friends.

August 8-15             Southwest Harbor, Maine

Kennedy was scheduled to depart on Tuesday, August 8 at 3:05 PM.  Joe, Stephanie and Winn would arrive at 5:20 PM.  Morning on the boat was hectic as Kennedy awakened early and baked a blueberry pie (still in her pj’s) to welcome the guests before finishing packing, etc.  I was stripping beds, vacuuming and cleaning heads for the new guests.  A construction delay on the road necessitated a change in luncheon plans.  We ordered ahead to Shinbashi and ate our spring rolls on the go in order to reach the airport in time for security, etc. 

Joe, Stephanie and Winn arrived on time and the fun began again. We made a stop at Blueberry Hill Ice Cream in Ellsworth for the most delicious treat ever.  Winn’s favorite was Moose Tracks and I loved the toasted coconut.  Throughout the summer, we have seen lines forming outside their windows and now we understand why.  The ice cream was exceptionally rich and flavorful.

 Joe was in a boot following complicated ankle surgery in June and walking was limited.  He was the designated Winn-sitter and did a great job throughout their visit.  As an adored grandson and great-grandson, Winn never lacks for attention and praise. Joe and Stephanie are exceptionally patient and understanding with Winn and keep him entertained with multiple games and diversions.  He quickly learned to negotiate the stairs on the boat and wore his life jacket as required.   Stephanie loves the local library and took Winn there on several afternoons to read books, view videos and play with Legos.  Both were avid fans of the ice cream shop.

On Wednesday, we took the boat into Somes Sound for a delightful cruise past palatial “summer cottages” and moored sailboats.  We returned to the marina for a Maine lobster dinner with freshly baked blueberry pie.  On subsequent days, we visited Bass Harbor, the great shops and restaurants of Southwest Harbor and Jordan Pond Restaurant on Cadillac Mountain. 

We were pleased Linda and Phil came for a visit and met our guests.  Linda showed Winn her South Africa photos of animals and he declared, “I know a lot about animals.”  He does, too, from his year at the Zoo School in Fort Worth.  Phil, one of David’s Baylor friends, was the first in Waco to come to see Stephanie after we brought her home as a newborn.  Sixty-one years later, they re-unite in Southwest Harbor, Maine!

On a gorgeous Monday evening, Miller came to pilot the dinghy for Stephanie and me on a sunset cruise (David, Joe and Winn declined to join us).  We went again to Somes Sound and then across to Northeast Harbor for a great view of the many beautiful homes and boats.  The sun went below the mountains as we returned to the boat for a traditional Maine dinner of steamed lobsters and freshly baked blueberry pie.  With Pillsbury pie crusts and my new and very simple recipe, I have mastered this great dessert.  Of course, the real secret is fresh wild Maine blueberries, smaller and sweeter than the others.  Five cups of these luscious berries make a dense pie that is exceptionally delicious.

Their week-long visit ended much too soon and we made another trip to the Bangor airport.  On the way, we stopped at Shinbashi for an Asian lunch.  David can never get enough of their pineapple fried rice!  The boat was very quiet with the absence of our family but we had many wonderful memories of their visit to Maine.

July 31-August 7                Southwest Harbor, Maine

We were delighted to be invited by Phil and Linda to have dinner on Aimless and learn about their recent journey with friends to the northern coastal area of Maine and the Manan Islands.  They experienced the significant tides (more than twenty feet) in that area and the isolated culture of the fishing island of Grand Manan.  An anchor chain malfunction meant hard work in manually pulling almost 300 feet of line.  Otherwise, the trip was delightful.  We had a delicious dinner of pork roast, polenta, and fresh wild blueberries with ice cream for dessert.  With Phil and Linda, conversation generally focuses on politics, history and books.  We can talk for hours!

On Tuesday evening, we attended a special charity event benefiting the Harbor House of Southwest Harbor.  This wonderful facility provides many services for children, seniors, and the indigent.  On the spacious grounds of Hinkley Boat Services, Inc., large white tents had been erected and approximately 1,000 people assembled for drinks, socializing, and the silent auction.  It was a summer fashion show with multiple Lily Pulitzer brightly colored sheath dresses, all sorts of nautical designs, and some “I’m here to get attention” attire.   The evening was cool and we had a great view of the sun dipping below the mountains.

 Dinner consisted of lobster, corn, potatoes, slaw, mussels, bread and a yummy blueberry cake for dessert.  It was a feast.  At our table, we met John and Mary Treanor from Houston.  Avid sailors for many years, they had once owned a 50’ Hinkley sailboat which they sailed across the Atlantic and through the Mediterranean. They had no crew except for occasional visiting friends.  We were awed by their daring!  They now own a home in Southwest Harbor where they spend summers.

This was the week for social occasions!  On Wednesday evening, we went with Jerry and Jill  to dine at their favorite restaurant in the Bar Harbor, Havana.  Located in a non-descript older house on Main Street, it is deceivingly simple on the outside but transforms into a lovely up-scale place as one enters the front door.  Fully booked, but tables were well-spaced and the ambiance was subdued.  Jerry and Jill are great conversationalists with considerable wit and we were delighted to spend time with them.

The new chef at Havana has reportedly lessened the Cuban influences in his cuisine but they were discernible in many dishes.  Paella is a house specialty made with great Maine seafood, multiple vegetables and saffron rice.  I enjoyed crusted sea scallops on a salad of baby tomatoes and croutons of toasted Cuban cornbread (sweeter than most). Outstanding!  We shared a dessert of a single fried banana, rolled in shredded pastry and fried golden brown.  It was garnished with hazelnut sauce, wild blueberries (it’s Maine, remember?) and whipped cream dollops.  All of us agreed our food was fabulous, the service was great, ambiance was exceptional, and pricing was reasonable for such a wonderful experience.

Kennedy, our 20-year-old granddaughter arrived on Thursday.  She will be a junior at Baylor University and is always a total delight.  We enjoy her company and having her all to ourselves for four days was special.  The weather cooperated with sunny skies and cool temperatures. We made shopping forays to Southwest Harbor, Northeast Harbor, and Bar Harbor, made a short cruise on Sunday afternoon and ate at lovely little restaurants during her visit.

 The Hardbergers joined us one evening on the boat for a dinner of cioppino made with an assortment of great local seafood.  Kennedy found them to be interesting and “very cool.”  Avid about Maine wild blueberries, Kennedy was determined to make b blueberry pie.  With little help, she succeeded beautifully and we feasted on the results.   Evenings were spent watching movies on TV and putting together puzzles as I did needlepoint and David and Pretzel napped.  Not very exciting but she insisted it was perfect way to spend time with us.

July 23-30                            Southwest Harbor, Maine

David’s back problems have continued throughout the summer.  He contacted a physical therapist in SW Harbor and now is scheduled for therapy several times a week.  The clinic, a lovely facility, is located about five minutes from our marina and David immediately liked the therapist.  He seemed to have a good understanding of the problems and was insistent David do exercises on days when not scheduled for therapy.  He is hopeful this will improve his balance and mobility.

Wednesday night was a “date night.”  Time to leave the boat and enjoy time in a special place.  We chose the restaurant at Jordan’s Pond where we had been earlier in the summer but at that time, the renowned view of the mountains and the gorgeous deep-water pond had been obscured by fog. This night was clear and cool.  We were seated outdoors just as the sun was beginning to go behind the mountains, providing a soft luminous glow to the beautiful scene.

The restaurant is very large but we enjoyed an intimate space on the terrace which was surrounded by gorgeous flowers.  The lavender delphiniums were especially outstanding.  Maine’s cool temperatures and moisture are the perfect atmosphere for outdoor plants.  They grow larger and maintain a freshness and “perkiness” that is lacking in my plants in Fort Worth.

In addition to their delicious popovers and strawberry jam, house specialties, we enjoyed entrees of steak and lobster and pumpkin-seed crusted sea scallops with bacon-wilted kale and couscous (orzo would have been better but couscous seems to be an “in” food item.)  We lingered for quite a while enjoying the fading twilight as shadows fell on the pond and the mountains.

Miller came by on Thursday to say goodbye before departing for home in Rhode Island.  He had worked consistently all week to complete the polishing of the hull and repairing and painting a damaged area below the bow pulpit.  The weather was sunny and cool so he was able to do everything as planned before leaving.  Miller loves to sing as he works (a little off-key) in an accent that probably comes from his native Dominica.  He entertains everyone on the dock.  Once again, he brought flowers to me.  The man is a true charmer!  He will be gone for three weeks on a journey with Aga and Junior to Poland to visit his wife’s parents.

We have been salivating over a 70’ Marlow yacht with an enclosed pilothouse and a navy-blue hull which arrived this week.  The internet revealed that it sells for about $2,500,00.  We will continue to dream! On a dock visit to friends, Jill and Jerry, we met Patti, one of the owners of this splendid boat, and her pet Electus parrot.  This amazing bird is 26 years old, tamed to relate well to people, talks and will kiss on request.  Jill, an avid animal person was ecstatic to hold him and shower him with love.  Sebastian, the parrot, in grief for his deceased wife had plucked most of the feathers on his neck area.  He was a delight!

Happily ensconced in our marina slip, we watch boats coming and going, the ospreys nesting on the marker atop the breakwater, and the flooding and ebbing tides.  I am enjoying the mystery novels of Barbara Ross, who uses the Maine coast as the locale for her stories.  She is a very good writer whose books are suspenseful, realistic and informative.  She always includes food descriptions and has a recipe section after the conclusion.  Some recipes have been keepers.  Great summer reading!

July 16-22                Southwest Harbor, Maine    

      

Three days of fog finally ended and we had gorgeous Maine weather for the remainder of the week.  Naturally, we were eager to leave the boat.  We returned to XYZ Restaurant with Phil and Linda and enjoyed again their wonderful cuisine while discussing their plans to journey by boat to Nova Scotia.  Friends would join them later in the week and they planned to be gone for ten days.  We were invited to join them in our boat but decided we “had been there, done that” and were quite content being sloths in Southwest Harbor.

Stonington is a quiet village of quaint shops, small restaurants, and nineteenth and early twentieth century buildings and homes.  The beautiful harbor is dotted with large rocks which are dramatically revealed at low tide (more than 10 feet).  To reach Stonington, we drove again to Blue Hill and continued east.  At one point, we had a fabulous panoramic view of the sea, mountains, islands, and forests that make up the coast of Maine.  It was breathtaking but unfortunately my little camera could not capture it in all its majesty.

Stonington is “the lobster capital of Maine” and the bay is crowded with lobster boats.  Due to the significant tide, larger boats must moor out and use their dinghies to dock.  We had a great lunch at a lovely cafe with outdoor dining.  The lobster rolls were exceptionally good!  A nearby bookstore offered an eclectic selection with many titles by Maine authors.  I always look for books on sailing history that might appeal to Dave, an avid reader, but found none that had not already been added to his collection.  

With the great weather, we saw a marked increase in large boats coming into the marina.  The Huntress, a 180 feet yacht with a crew of ten came for five days.  At night, with all the lights blazing from its four decks, it looked like a giant hotel.  Other sleek, beautifully maintained boats arrived and we decided to get a closer view from our dinghy. 

A lovely evening cruise in the dinghy past the large boats in the marina, past the moored boats in the harbor, past the Coast Guard Station, and into Soames Sound, bordered by dense forests and stately homes, is a great way to spend time.  We took Pretzel with us and she soon adapted to the dinghy and was eagerly surveying the scene.  We did not see any seals (which populate the Sound) but we did see the 90 feet sailboat with a blue hull which belongs to Charles Butts of Corpus Christi and HEB food markets.  He is a long-time summer resident of the area.

Another trip to Ellsworth, ten miles from Southwest Harbor, was necessitated by the loss of my cell phone.  Intensive searching for five days had been unsuccessful and I was reconciled it was gone forever.  A trip to AT&T revealed the phone was insured (we had forgotten this) and could be replaced with a better model for a nominal deduction.  I would receive the phone in two days.  The following morning, I picked up a small cookbook on top of the microwave and there was my cell phone hidden underneath.   I will keep the new one and return the old one to the insurer.

Ellsworth is the location of Shinbashi, our favorite Asian restaurant.  Their spring rolls are wonderfully light and delicious and their pineapple fried rice is exceptionally good.   We seldom look at anything else on their extensive menu.  

Stephanie and Joe will come for a week in August and we are already planning places to go and things to do.  They are always wonderful guests and love coming to the boat and Maine.  The escape from horrendous Texas heat will surely be welcome.