May 13-17                                PHILADELPHIA

On Saturday the rain began and being inside the boat was so pleasant and cozy that we stayed there.  David and I always have “something to do” and we are rarely bored.  The winds blew, the rain fell, and the current in the Delaware moved rapidly, carrying with it an immense quantity of logs, small branches, and other debris.  We were delighted to receive a call from Tony Struzik, Amanda’s father.  He was flying into Philadelphia to consult on a project for his company and wanted to meet with us on Sunday.

The rain continued intermittently on Sunday but finally ended in the early afternoon just as Tony arrived at the dock.  Following a brief tour of the boat, we took his rental car for a sightseeing venture into South Philly, noted for multiple ethnic neighborhoods and cultures.  Tony was familiar with the area and pointed out the local landmarks on South Street, the bustling center of the area.  The sidewalks were crowded as people were obviously taking the opportunity to go outdoors and enjoy the sunshine that had finally broken through the clouds.

South Street was an eclectic mixture of mostly small shops, some well-known and mainstream and others catering to the tattooed and pierced population.  There was a small but very nice Whole Foods in the area with the highest prices we have ever seen in a grocery store.  This did not seem to be a deterrent as the aisles were filled with carts piled high with grocery, meat, and produce items.

After returning to the car for more exploration in the Society Hill and Old City areas, we decided to have a late lunch/early dinner at a Southwestern restaurant  recommended by Tony.   Xochiti proved to be an excellent choice with table-side preparation for an outstanding guacamole salad.  With an elegant, colorful décor, great service, a very good (but small) menu, and a lovely location on one of the oldest and most beautiful streets in Society Hill, this restaurant was a delight and one that we hope to visit again.

Tony had to leave early on Monday to travel to Westchester, Pennsylvania, about thirty miles from Philadelphia, and accepted our invitation to stay with us overnight.  The rain returned shortly after we returned to the boat and we were glad to enjoy the warmth of the salon and the interesting and erudite conversation of our guest.  Tony is a well-read, well-traveled individual with a varied professional background and we truly enjoyed having this opportunity to visit with him.

We awakened early to say goodbye to Tony and again were confronted with rain.  In addition, we were enveloped in fog that limited visibility to probably no more than a mile.  We were delighted that we had come early to Philadelphia for we would have had to remain where we were as traveling in such difficult circumstances would have presented too many possible dangers.

Remaining on board gave us the “opportunity” to clean a bilge that had somehow accumulated an excess of water and oil emitting an odor in the middle stateroom similar to that of dirty socks.  Obviously, it had to be cleaned, and without a pump, we decided to bail it into a five gallon container.  After working on his stomach, facing down into the bilge for an hour, David finally asked me to call the office of the marina and see if they had a pump we might borrow.  I did and they did.  The job proceeded much faster and we finally had the offending area  drier and cleaner.  David was filthy with oil stains on his clothes, face, and even his hair.  I was kept busy trying to keep the oil off all the surrounding surfaces.  It was a dirty, unpleasant job but we were successful in eliminating the odor.

Tuesday was the day we would return home.  It was also the day that Michael Brinker, the a/c repairman would arrive to find the leak that drained all the Freon from our main unit.  Michael came promptly on schedule and was soon all over the boat.  He crawled through the spaces below the galley and those below the steering console on the bridge.  He was determined to discover the leak and he eventually did so.  We would need a new coil unit.  As one wry pundit stated, “BOAT are the letters that stand for Bring Out Another Thousand.”  We have often agreed.

Michael agreed to order the needed unit and install it while we are in Fort Worth. We will have a functioning a/c system when we return in June.  Leaving the boat clean when we depart for home is imperative.  We spent hours cleaning heads, emptying refrigerators, changing sheets, doing laundry, putting away exterior cushions, locking bikes, and making everything as pristine as possible.  We will be rewarded by a beautiful boat to welcome us when we return.

The View of the Delaware River and the Benjamin Franklin Bridge
from the dock of our boat
Philadelphia, PA

May 12                      PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA

We needed to leave the Delaware City channel on a high tide to have sufficient depth to turn around the boat in the narrow space between the dock and the opposite shore.  Our neighbors, aft and forward, had departed early so we had extra room for maneuvering.  With the expert help of one of the dock hands, we were soon turned around and headed back to the Delaware River. 

Blue skies, sunny weather, and calm breezes accompanied us as we followed the route along the eastern shore lined with refineries and chemical plants, leading to the main body of the river.  Delaware was once, and may still be, almost a fiefdom for the DuPont de Nemours family who came to this country in the early part of the eighteenth century and established one of the most successful chemical companies in the world.   The family’s homes and gardens in this state are legendary and some today are open to the public.  We visited them on several occasions years ago and regret that none are easily accessible from our boat.

We had wondered why there was such a dearth of marinas available enroute to Philadelphia but soon discovered the reasons.  For miles and miles on both sides of the Delaware River are chemical and industrial plants.  The current is very swift and the river, according to our guide book, is always carrying a significant quantity of debris and logs.  Large tankers and tugs comprise most of the traffic.  This is not a river that invites pleasure craft. We would have liked to dock at Wilmington, a beautiful city known for its outstanding gardens, but the only place for transient boaters, the Velvet Elvis Marina (we would have loved to have seen this place!), did not accommodate large boats.

Despite being warned about the danger of floating logs, we were astonished to see the quantity and size of some of them rapidly coming at us on the swift current. We continued to dodge logs until we reached the entrance to the marina in Philadelphia.  At one point, we dodged two tires, complete with wheels, floating past us. The high tide we needed in Delaware City was also high tide on the Delaware River and the current reduced our usual 10 nm speed to 7 nm.

 The Philadelphia Marine Center, one of only three marinas in the downtown area, was the only one with space for us.  We had called several weeks ago and made reservations to leave our boat here for a month, including the time we would return home.  Barbara, the manager was helpful and friendly.  I was eager to meet her.  She proved to be delightful, accommodating, and offered advice and directions for places near the marina that we might need or enjoy.  We felt confident that our boat would be in good hands.

After docking, we quickly changed to our “city clothes,” walked several blocks, and caught the Pflash, Philadelphia’s center city trolley, an on-an-off transport that goes to all the major tourist sites within a three to four mile radius.  We made the entire route and were able to ascertain where and what was available. 

Philadelphia appeared to be a vibrant city, clean and safe for walking.  The Old City, near our dock, is filled with historical sites and there are many signs that give directions and information.  We left the trolley at the Betsy Ross House to visit the Mulberry Market across the street.  As before, the selection was very limited and the prices were high.  Another market on our way back to the dock proved to be the same.  I have learned that it is best to take the time and make the effort to bring with us from home as many items as possible that we might need. 

Barbara had raved over a nearby Italian restaurant, La Veranda, and we chose to celebrate our successful final day of cruising with dinner in a nice restaurant.  La Veranda was a beautiful, welcoming place and we were placed at a table near the window to watch the river scene.  The menu reflected the strong Italian culture in Philadelphia and we were not disappointed in our choices.

On Friday, David’s back pain had returned and he decided to remain on the boat to do SGA work.  I took a long walk through the Old City, caught the trolley, and headed for the Philadelphia Museum of Art.  This massive structure atop the highest hill (the only one I saw) in the city is renowned with movie fans for the “Rocky” steps leading to the main entrance.  Today, those doors are closed and one enters from the less impressive rear of the building.  Nevertheless, the experience is awesome.  With a vast and eclectic collection of decorative arts, paintings, sculpture, glassware, and silver, the PMA is a treasure trove.  

The current exhibition at the PMA is Roberto Capucci’s Art and Fashion.  Capucci achieved celebrity status as the boy wonder of the couture world in the 1950s with his complicated designs, elegantly constructed in gorgeous iridescent fabrics.  He won fame and success in both Rome and Paris making high fashion gowns for the rich and famous.  In the late 1980s, he made a decision to focus on fashion as art and began to create his fabulous “sculpture dresses”, marvels of elegant, unique design created with expert, precision craftsmanship.  The exhibition was mounted on black mannequins in blackened rooms so that the dramatic lighting could enhance the magnificent colors and fabrics of the gowns.  I wished for the company of some of my friends, such as Glenda and Esther, who love fashion and appreciate the difficulties involved in sewing complicated designs.

The return trolley ride presented a delightful panorama of a bustling city as the streets were crowded with people seemingly happy to begin their weekend in such pleasant weather.  The bus driver reflected the happy mood as he cheerily greeted and said goodbye to passengers and people waiting at the stops.  He was a great ambassador for the City of Philadelphia.  Hot and tired, I was delighted to reach the boat and find that David had made dinner for us—a mild and very delicious version of his famous (at least in our family) chili.  After dinner, we were surprised by loud noises across the river.  Our aft deck was a perfect spot to view a wonderful fireworks display that lasted for more than fifteen minutes.  We had no idea why this occurred but we enjoyed every moment as great balls of color filled the sky and reflected in the water below.

May 11                               DELAWARE CITY, DELAWARE

We were eager to leave early and take advantage of a low tide which would benefit us as we went through the C & D Canal. The C & D connects Chesapeake Bay with the Delaware River. We had read and been advised that a strong current and high tide could be a deterrent making progress difficult. Again, the weather was calm and sunny and we enjoyed the peaceful sight of ospreys building nests on markers along our route.

The C & D Canal, completed in 1927 to provide inland access to Chesapeake Bay, was not the complicated affair that we had thought it might be. There were no locks and we were given no instructions as we moved steadily through the almost thirty miles from the southern to the northern end. It was very similar to some of the long stretches that we had navigated on the Intercoastal Waterway.

Before reaching Chesapeake City, we had encountered only one small boat in the canal. Rounding a slight bend, we suddenly saw a huge mass in front of us. Initially, we thought it was a multi-storied housing complex on the shore so we were startled to realize it was instead a tanker loaded with containers. With the height of a ten story building and the length of two football fields, this mammoth structure glided smoothly past us creating an almost unnoticeable wake. Traffic on the canal for the remainder of the journey was slight and consisted of small recreational craft.

After exiting the C & D, we turned port, traveled two miles and entered a narrow channel leading to Delaware City. The marina was located in the channel and we were directed to tie up to a face dock. The channel was only about seventy feet wide and the tide was low so maneuvering our boat was difficult in such limited space. David was unaware the current was very strong and pulling into the dock, he was hit the stern of a small catamaran. With able assistance from two dockhands and the frightened boat owner, we were pushed off before significant damage was done.

The owner of the damaged boat, Al Casale was very understanding and accepted our apologies. We were relieved that no one had been injured and that the damage was slight. A call was made to file a claim and, hopefully, he will be pleased with the outcome. Al had just purchased his boat from the estate of the former owner, who had been killed in a private plane accident. Now after this mishap, Al stated that he had ample reason to change the name of the boat from Dark and Stormy. It would soon be known as Nemo.

A bicycle ride through Delaware City revealed a notable lack of shopping opportunities, a few restaurants, and a treasure trove of eighteenth and early nineteenth century homes and buildings. Delaware City is a modest community but they have a rich architectural history and a beautiful park located on the water’s edge.

May 10                                   GEORGETOWN, MARYLAND

After purchasing fuel at the Baltimore Yacht Center, we were ready to begin our journey northward.  The weather could not have been better.  Winds were mild and the temperature was pleasant.  After several hours of uneventful cruising, we turned starboard into the Sassafras River.  The shores displayed the wealth of the area with large homes set on lush green yards adorned with blooming azaleas.  This area was significant during the Revolutionary War and it has been documented that George Washington did indeed on several occasions sleep in Georgetown.

The Sassafras River appeared to be a boating mecca as we passed four large, populated marinas before reaching our destination, Sassafras Harbor Marina.  We docked next to two covered sheds filled with motoryachts.  We had not seen covered slips since docking four years ago at Colonial Beach on the Potomac River.  Our expert dock hand introduced himself as Joe Smith, the owner (and probably the hardest working employee of the marina).  Joe was a trim, neat man who reminded us of Sam Ball, of Cleburne Airport and a former customer of Sentry Aircraft.  Like Sam, Joe Smith ran a “tight ship.”  His marina was immaculate and well-maintained.  Flower beds, gazebos, walkways, picnic tables and a well-stocked marine store were extra bonuses to marina residents. We would definitely add this place to our list of favorites.

Despite our resolve to eat on the boat and begin depleting some of our stocked provisions, we could not resist the ambiance and menu of The Granary, a lovely waterfront restaurant near the marina.  David dined on “gourmet nachos” but was envious of my seafood entrée, Nova Scotia mussels, large, sweet, and fantastic. We sat for a very long while enjoying the food, wine, and a beautiful Chesapeake sunset.

May 6-May 9                                 BALTIMORE, MARYLAND

The five hour cruise to Baltimore was uneventful and familiar.  We had made this journey several times last year in our newly purchased boat on our initial visit to the Chesapeake. The bay was crowded with fishing and crabbing vessels taking advantage of the mild winds and sunny weather.  Six massive oil tankers were at anchor near Annapolis, awaiting their turn to go into Baltimore.  We cruised between them, feeling like a mouse in a room filled with elephants. Strong currents occasionally made steering a challenge as the autopilot could not hold the course. 

The massive Francis Scott Key Bridge, at the entrance of the harbor to Baltimore, is the introduction to one of this nation’s most beautiful and interesting areas for boaters.  Passing by Fort McHenry with the Star-Spangled Banner  “so proudly waving” and large naval vessels docked on the opposite shore,  huge warehouses attest to the importance of Baltimore as a major port. The city docks were vacant of other pleasure craft and we were assigned to a prime place for viewing the waterside scene.  We were delighted to meet again our favorite dock hand, Dominick, “the only White guy” (his descriptive phrase to identify himself from the other dock hands). 

After docking, we rode the Circulator, a free shuttle that makes a five mile loop north and south from the Inner Harbor (there is another one that does the same trip east and west), to a small hardware store in Federal Hill.  Serendipitously, we found the brass grommets needed to complete the fender hangers David has been working on since last year and which I have been “regularly urging” him to complete.             
        

The Happy Hour crowds were evident and the streets were filled with people heading toward the nearby stadium to watch an Orioles baseball game.  We decided to take a break, have a snack, and enjoy the ambiance.  David chose the restaurant with the prettiest waitress and we munched on fried eggplant spears and rocket salad. Very good!  We walked the approximately ten blocks (all downhill) back to the harbor and were pleased that David, although tired, was not in pain. 

The predicted thunderstorm proved to be brief but it was fun to sit on the aft deck and watch the lightening and dark clouds come in from the north before the rains began to fall. We were reminded of a similar evening four years ago when we were here on a chartered boat with Joe Usher, our son-in-law.  He and David sat for hours one evening watching it rain, sipping Scotch, and “solving the problems of the world.”  Bored with all of their profundity, I went to bed early.

Saturday was another gorgeous spring day that began with a large wedding party boarding the Spirit of Baltimore, a party vessel on the adjacent dock.  We had a perfect view of all the outside activities.  The Spirit was apparently fully booked as people were boarding all day for harbor cruises.  That evening it was the scene of a large high school prom and we sat on deck to watch the fashion parade.  The girls were dressed in fancy party gowns, with elaborate hair styles, and stiletto heels.  Most of the boys had on casual shirts and slacks—they were not going to play the social game (and probably never would!).

                             

I made a visit to Cross Street Market to buy fresh Maryland crabmeat.  It was expensive ($31.00 a pound) but I wanted the real thing.  The waiter at Coolighan’s Pub in Cambridge had given me the recipe for crab cakes and I was eager to try it. Walking back through the historic neighborhood of Federal Hill was so pleasant that I took my time and visited several of the small shops, including the funky Book Escape, a tiny version of Half-Price Books in Texas. Baby strollers and dogs on leashes were everywhere as people were enjoying the weather and the weekend.

    

David stayed in his pajamas until time to go to dinner at 7:30 PM.  He had worked on boat projects, reviewed reports for SGA, and had thoroughly enjoyed being a slob.  Taking the Circulator, we went to the Blue Agave, a unique Mexican restaurant in Federal Hill.  Definitely not Tex-Mex, Blue Agave is noted for its interesting menu featuring many fruits and vegetables from Central America and Mexico.  We found the food to be delicious.

                                                                                           

Mother’s Day is apparently a major holiday in Baltimore.  Lines were forming on the dock for the Spirit at 9:30 AM and the boat was constantly on the move until 10:00 PM.   Again, we could witness a fashion show as men, women, and children were dressed in Sunday best. All day large and small family groups strolled the Inner Harbor.  Restaurants were filled and flower vendors were busy. We enjoyed watching the children ride in the sea dragon boats and waving to the passing pirate ship that continually crossed our stern.  Long lines formed in front of the aquarium and bands played on top of Federal Hill.  It was a holiday atmosphere and we were enthralled.

 I made a pilgrimage to one of my favorite places, the Walters Art Museum.

The Walters, father and son, were eclectic collectors who were enormously wealthy from investments in banking and railroads.  The original building for the museum was patterned after an Italianate palace and is still one of Baltimore’s most beautiful structures.  The collection has a broad range of select objects that testify to the incredible interests and curiosities of its founders:  natural history specimens, armor, weapons, porcelains, glassware, jewelry, paintings, sculpture, decorative arts, and more from all over the world, ancient and modern.  It’s a place where one could spend days perusing the walls and cases.  My favorite object, and one that I always have to re-visit, is an exquisite and unusual tiger necklace by Rene Lalique, a jewelry designer before becoming a maker ofReturning to the boat, I detoured to Sure Fresh Market to buy provisions.  It is equivalent in quality to a small Central Market with an outstanding bakery and seafood area.  It is on the Circulator route and, thereby, convenient for boaters. As previously noted, good grocery stores near docks are rare.   Dinner was on the boat.  My crab cakes were outstanding but still not as wonderful as those at the Cambridge Yacht Club.  I will keep trying. 

We were so immersed in the lifestyle of the Inner Harbor, we decided to delay leaving for another day.  Monday is another sunny day and we purposely will keep our activities simple in preparation for the busy days ahead as we make our way to Philadelphia. We plan to ride our bikes to the south side of the harbor and visit the picturesque neighborhood below Federal Hill Park.  Baltimore offers so much that we always enjoy being here and experiencing its many charms and gracious people.

May 3-May 5                          CAMBRIDGE, MARYLAND

Knowing we had a very long day of cruising to reach Cambridge, we arose early to be ready for departure by 9:00 AM.  Onancock was a lovely town but there was not much action in the downtown area and we were eager to continue northward.  The Querreys left the dock only minutes before us and we were soon following them through the snake-like river to the bay.  They had decided to go only to Middle Hooper Island, which was about a four hour cruise instead of the seven-hour journey that we had charted.  My information on Middle Hooper indicated that the dock at the one marina there would not accommodate a boat as large as ours.  If we wanted to stay on the eastern coast of Maryland, we had no choice but to continue to Cambridge.

The weather was cool and sunny, but the wind was quickly escalating from the calm breeze we had enjoyed when we had breakfast on the aft deck.  After reaching the bay, the wind was much stronger and the sky became very cloudy.  For an hour and a half, we were in fifteen to twenty knot winds (Ideally, we prefer winds less than ten knots.). We had to lay down everything in the boat that could be broken or become a flying object as we were tossed in three foot waves.  David turned on the windshield wipers but the steady stream of water often made visibility difficult.

As suddenly as it had appeared, the winds abated, the sky began to clear, and we were cruising along beautifully.  David left the helm to me and retired for his late morning nap.  Although the rain seemed to have ceased, there was a continual deluge of water streaming down the windshield.  Since I was occupied with the GPS and staying on course, I waited until David returned to begin questioning what was causing this excessive water from above.  Within minutes we discovered that we had inadvertently turned on the windshield washers (We didn’t even know we had such an accessory!) along with the wipers.  Our water tank was almost drained from the hours of needless washing.

The rest of the journey to Cambridge was uneventful and we soon docked at the lovely Cambridge Municipal Docks.  Weather reports indicated that another storm was on the way for the evening and the following morning.  Noting that the Cambridge Yacht Club was nearby, we checked for reciprocity with Fort Worth Boat Club and made reservations for dinner.

The CYC, organized one hundred years ago, has a small, casual facility with an impressive display of sailing trophies and is located adjacent to the city docks. The dining room looked out onto the water and the view of the lighted bridge across the river was spectacular.  The wait staff was welcoming and accommodating.  David never misses a chance to have lamb and declared it to outstanding.  My crab imperial was the best I’ve ever had—light, fluffy, and packed with delicious morsels of flavorful crab.  I am not trying to audition for the food editor of the Star-Telegram—but we do enjoy food and like to find new dishes or methods of preparation we might want to try.

 Afterwards, we hurried through the wind back to the boat and soon fell asleep to heavy rain.  I was delighted that the weather forecast had been correct—now I wouldn’t have to wash down the boat tomorrow to remove all the salt from our cruise.

The rain and wind continued through the night and into the afternoon.  We were concerned about Dan and Judy who were enroute from Middle Hooper Island to Cambridge.  They finally arrived at 3:00 PM after a very rough day cruising on the bay.  One of their bow porthole covers had blown off in the storm and the stateroom had become swamped with water.  Dan finally solved the flooding problem but beds, carpet, and everything in the stateroom was wet.  They had to spend time after docking to get it out, dry it, and clean the mess.

We were delighted they agreed to join us for dinner at the Cambridge Yacht Club.  Again the service and food were outstanding.  Dan and Judy will leave their boat at Oxford for a month, return home for a wedding, and then return to continue their journey.  We are hopeful that we will have another opportunity to visit with them this summer.

Thursday was windy but sunny.  After spending the morning completing SGA work and boat projects, we unloaded our bikes and toured the nearby historic neighborhoods.  Cambridge is rich in stately eighteenth and nineteenth century homes.  The downtown area, only a few blocks from the marina, shows evidence of architectural grandeur but, unfortunately, economical factors have emptied many of the buildings and little opportunities for shopping could be found.  The one grocery store, an establishment almost one hundred years old, is small, crowded, overpriced, and stocked with a limited number of provisions.

Cambridge has wonderful old churches, large and architecturally significant.  Obviously, the town has had a very prosperous past and there is evidence that current leadership is striving for revitalization.  Its location and reputation as one of the most important destinations on the Chesapeake may be a great advantage for future growth.  We loved seeing it by bicycle and were warmly greeted many times by locals.

We had a late lunch at Coolighan’s Pub on the main street of Cambridge.  Our waiter was a former chef and first mate on the 84’ Hatteras yacht belonging to John Glenn, the astronaut and later U.S. senator.  Since he wasn’t busy at that time of the afternoon, he entertained us with stories of his six month cruise on that incredible boat.  The Pub was located in a former Woolworth’s and the owner had decorated it with beautiful bird prints, highly polished wooden furniture, and lovely accessories that made it seem like a well-appointed private club.  The food was simple but very good.

We returned to the boat and resumed work on our boat projects.  The wind completely died and we enjoyed a lingering sunset while viewing the Choptank River and the marina from our aft deck.  We are hopeful that this calm will continue through tomorrow for our journey to Baltimore.

May 1-May 2 ONANCOCK, VIRGINIA

We left Bay Creek Marina without any of the drama that had been a part of our entry.  We successfully followed the complicated route, stayed well within the markers, and did not encounter any sand piles that amass under the surface from beach erosion, which likely had been the cause of our earlier mishap.  The weather was gorgeous for perfect Chesapeake Bay cruising. 

We enjoyed watching the osprey building new nests (What happens to the massive old nests?) on every marker or buoy that provided space.  Their nests appear to be complicated structures mostly made of twigs, about one inch in diameter, with interiors of much smaller matter to cushion the eggs.  Both male and females seemed to be industrious in their efforts and we saw several nests that were already occupied.  Strangely, sea gulls are not often seen on the bay; we do see many of them in marinas.  Perhaps they have learned that the food prospects there are more abundant and easier to obtain than competing with other species on the open water.  I need an ornithologist (That’s a word I’ve rarely used!) to answer my questions.

After a four hour cruise, we entered the winding channel up Onancock Creek.  Lined with stately, two and three story homes, mostly of eighteenth and nineteenth century construction, set on spacious lawns dotted with magnificent pines, the creek presented a Norman Rockwell picture of ideal American life. 

We docked at Onancock municipal wharf, only two blocks from the small downtown area.  As quickly as possible, we were downloading our bicycles and ready to explore the area.  I was delighted to see David, despite being weakened by pneumonia only a month ago, was having no problem in riding his bicycle.  Since this has been one of our greatest pleasures in traveling on the boat (and also a necessity for easy transport of supplies), we were greatly reassured that he could easily manage bike riding.

Onancock’s downtown area consisted of about five blocks, mostly restaurants, antique stores, gift shops, and the usual businesses found in small towns.  They had no nearby grocery store.  For some reason, it is common to place such resources as far as possible from marinas, leaving boaters no choice but to eat at the local restaurants.  We enjoy eating out but we often need to replenish supplies. 

We returned to the dock in time to see a large Hatteras coming in to the area behind our boat.  Since the dockhand had left for the day, I rushed over to catch their lines and subsequently was introduced to Judy and Dan Querrey.  They seemed like pleasant people and I invited them to come to our boat for drinks.

                                                                

Spending an hour or so with this delightful couple on the aft deck of The Bottom Line was a highlight for us.  Dan and Judy, both in their mid-fifties, had lived and worked for many years in Southern California, decided it was time to leave, bought and operated for a decade an apple orchard in Vermont (they still live there), and resolved that when the last of their three children graduated from college, they would pursue their dream of owning a large boat and travel. 

As we had done, they spent many hours on the internet searching for the “right” boat.  They needed one that would accommodate the low bridges on the Erie Canal and some of the major waterways in the Northeast, but be large and strong enough to manage open-sea cruising.  They bought a 1983 custom-built Hatteras, 53’ in length and without a fly-bridge.  It was the only boat like it ever built by Hatteras and the name of the first owner was on a plaque mounted on their control panel. 

In a very strange twist of fate, as Dan and Judy were docking at Onancock, their first time ever in that place, a small boat was being hoisted onto a trailer in front of them.  One of the men, a guest of the owner, came over to the Querreys and told them that his father had owned a boat identical to theirs. It was quickly determined that this was, indeed, the same boat and it was his father’s name etched on the plaque.  Everyone was astonished by this remarkable coincidence and the Querrys were delighted to learn more about the early history of their boat.

Later we learned that after buying their Hatteras in Portland, Dan had taken it (with the help of two captains) to Long Beach, California, where the captains departed and Judy boarded for the remainder of the journey down the coast of Mexico, Central America, and through the Panama Canal.  Deciding to bypass the eastern coast, they proceeded to the Grand Caymans and then (due to boat malfunctions) to Cuba.  After some time there, the boat was ready to go and they continued to Key West, up the East Coast, completed the Great Circle cruise through the Erie Canal and down the Mississippi, and were now traveling northward again.  They had lived on their boat for sixteen months.  Obviously, we were fascinated by their stories of adventure and found them to be a valuable and generous resource for information.

The following day, we resumed our bicycle exploration of Onancock and easily

found the hardware store, where we were given expert help needed to fabricate a unique part that would connect shore water to our boat.  Later in the afternoon, while David napped and listened to endless reports on the killing of Osama bin Laden, I rode my bike through the residential areas of Onancock and enjoyed the bountiful display of Spring flowers.  Azaleas and iris of every color and species were abundant in the acidic soil provided by the tall pine trees sheltering them.  In a short while, masses of hydrangea will be blooming. I am guilty of “hydrangea envy” since seeing the magnificent ones in other areas and having no luck growing them well in my yard.

Onancock was rich in historic churches and lovely homes.  Blocks and blocks of white homes or red brick ones with dark green shutters were pristinely maintained.  As noted in other areas of the South, back yard fences were rare.  Perhaps dogs and small children are better disciplined here than in Texas!

In the evening, Dan, Judy, David, and I walked several blocks to Bizotto, a lovely little restaurant, subtly lighted, with crisp spotless linens and attentive service.  We had an appetizer of fried artichokes stuffed with a mild bleu cheese.  It was delicious. Of course, everyone ate seafood entrees.  We spent a delightful evening getting to know the Querrys, then we walked back to the boat, exchanged hugs, cards, and travel schedules.  It would be wonderful to spend more time with them and hopefully we will meet again soon.

2011 JOURNEY OF THE BOTTOM LINE

April 26-April 28                                        HAYES, VIRGINIA

 We had been anticipating for months our return to The Bottom Line and beginning again our journey on the East Coast.  David's recent back surgery and the subsequent unexpected complications were considered, discussed, and finally deemed to be manageable.  We would accommodate his recovery as needed, keep the schedule flexible, and hire help to do the difficult jobs.  He did not want to delay the trip and insisted he would be OK.

The weather was pleasant when we arrived at the boat and we quickly unloaded the two extra bags, filled with "necessities"--most of them books.  We also had brought groceries, and computers.  The scheduled work partially had been completed, the new curtains in the galley were a great improvement over the old plastic blinds, and we were delighted to be back. 

A torrential rain storm battered the boat during the evening and thunderstorms of varying intensity continued for the next two days.  Workmen completed their projects and helped us with newly discovered malfunctions  "There is always something!" is surely the cry of every boat owner.

We were pleased with Severn River Marina's staff.  They were prompt, willing, and capable.  Sean Gordon, the manager, was eager to help.  We met Mike, an owner of the marina and one of the principals of The Bluewater Group that operates several marinas on the Chesapeake.  Mike told us about Bay Creek Marina and Resort on the Eastern Shore and graciously compted us for one night's stay in this new facility.

April 29-30                                        CAPE CHARLES, VIRGINIA

On Friday morning, the weather was clear, the winds were calm, and we were ready to depart from our boat's winter home.  At the last minute, we learned there was another problem with a gauge.  Two workmen promptly determined what was needed and had it repaired in several minutes.  We left the marina with several of the staff standing on the dock waving to us.  We had really enjoyed the folks at Hayes and would not hesitate to return there in the future.

The trip across the bay was without incident.  I had spent some time plotting our course on the new GPS and we were soon in the blue water with a line of oil tankers, apparently waiting for word to go into Baltimore.  The entrance to Cape Charles is via a very long and narrow channel, fortunately well-marked.  As in many other places in the Chesapeake, the water can be quite shallow, often less than four feet.  Since our draft is five feet, we are careful to follow the signs and pay attention to our depth gauge and the readings on the GPS.  As we approached the entrance to Bay Creek, we began to get into mud and momentarily lost our steering control.  The boat didn't make the required turn in time and seemed to be going out of the channel.  Fortunately, David recovered control quickly, backed out of the mud, regained position, and was able to proceed without additional problems.

Bay Creek is a beautiful, pristine facility surrounded by a development of large homes and condos with Italianate designs and colors.  We were given a golf cart that was "town legal" and we explored the area and the little community of Cape Charles.  A once prosperous railroad and boating center, Cape Charles is now struggling economically.  Many of the storefronts are closed and For Sale signs are placed in front of a large number of homes.  The residential neighborhoods bear evidence of the former prosperity of the town.  Many of the homes are large and grand.  Hopefully the new Bay Creek Resort will be the impetus for wealth and activity that will rejuvenate this once-lovely little community.

Bay Creek Resort includes the Aqua, a beautiful restaurant with sweeping views of the Bay and the small white sand beach.  Our lunch there consisted of the most delicious fried oysters either of us have ever eaten.  They were small, sweet, fresh, and barely dusted in cornmeal.  We considered them "gourmet dinner quality" and may try to copy them when we return home.