We left Bay Creek Marina without any of the drama that had been a part of our entry. We successfully followed the complicated route, stayed well within the markers, and did not encounter any sand piles that amass under the surface from beach erosion, which likely had been the cause of our earlier mishap. The weather was gorgeous for perfect Chesapeake Bay cruising.
We enjoyed watching the osprey building new nests (What happens to the massive old nests?) on every marker or buoy that provided space. Their nests appear to be complicated structures mostly made of twigs, about one inch in diameter, with interiors of much smaller matter to cushion the eggs. Both male and females seemed to be industrious in their efforts and we saw several nests that were already occupied. Strangely, sea gulls are not often seen on the bay; we do see many of them in marinas. Perhaps they have learned that the food prospects there are more abundant and easier to obtain than competing with other species on the open water. I need an ornithologist (That’s a word I’ve rarely used!) to answer my questions.
After a four hour cruise, we entered the winding channel up Onancock Creek. Lined with stately, two and three story homes, mostly of eighteenth and nineteenth century construction, set on spacious lawns dotted with magnificent pines, the creek presented a Norman Rockwell picture of ideal American life.
We docked at Onancock municipal wharf, only two blocks from the small downtown area. As quickly as possible, we were downloading our bicycles and ready to explore the area. I was delighted to see David, despite being weakened by pneumonia only a month ago, was having no problem in riding his bicycle. Since this has been one of our greatest pleasures in traveling on the boat (and also a necessity for easy transport of supplies), we were greatly reassured that he could easily manage bike riding.
Onancock’s downtown area consisted of about five blocks, mostly restaurants, antique stores, gift shops, and the usual businesses found in small towns. They had no nearby grocery store. For some reason, it is common to place such resources as far as possible from marinas, leaving boaters no choice but to eat at the local restaurants. We enjoy eating out but we often need to replenish supplies.
We returned to the dock in time to see a large Hatteras coming in to the area behind our boat. Since the dockhand had left for the day, I rushed over to catch their lines and subsequently was introduced to Judy and Dan Querrey. They seemed like pleasant people and I invited them to come to our boat for drinks.
Spending an hour or so with this delightful couple on the aft deck of The Bottom Line was a highlight for us. Dan and Judy, both in their mid-fifties, had lived and worked for many years in Southern California, decided it was time to leave, bought and operated for a decade an apple orchard in Vermont (they still live there), and resolved that when the last of their three children graduated from college, they would pursue their dream of owning a large boat and travel.
As we had done, they spent many hours on the internet searching for the “right” boat. They needed one that would accommodate the low bridges on the Erie Canal and some of the major waterways in the Northeast, but be large and strong enough to manage open-sea cruising. They bought a 1983 custom-built Hatteras, 53’ in length and without a fly-bridge. It was the only boat like it ever built by Hatteras and the name of the first owner was on a plaque mounted on their control panel.
In a very strange twist of fate, as Dan and Judy were docking at Onancock, their first time ever in that place, a small boat was being hoisted onto a trailer in front of them. One of the men, a guest of the owner, came over to the Querreys and told them that his father had owned a boat identical to theirs. It was quickly determined that this was, indeed, the same boat and it was his father’s name etched on the plaque. Everyone was astonished by this remarkable coincidence and the Querrys were delighted to learn more about the early history of their boat.
Later we learned that after buying their Hatteras in Portland, Dan had taken it (with the help of two captains) to Long Beach, California, where the captains departed and Judy boarded for the remainder of the journey down the coast of Mexico, Central America, and through the Panama Canal. Deciding to bypass the eastern coast, they proceeded to the Grand Caymans and then (due to boat malfunctions) to Cuba. After some time there, the boat was ready to go and they continued to Key West, up the East Coast, completed the Great Circle cruise through the Erie Canal and down the Mississippi, and were now traveling northward again. They had lived on their boat for sixteen months. Obviously, we were fascinated by their stories of adventure and found them to be a valuable and generous resource for information.
The following day, we resumed our bicycle exploration of Onancock and easily
found the hardware store, where we were given expert help needed to fabricate a unique part that would connect shore water to our boat. Later in the afternoon, while David napped and listened to endless reports on the killing of Osama bin Laden, I rode my bike through the residential areas of Onancock and enjoyed the bountiful display of Spring flowers. Azaleas and iris of every color and species were abundant in the acidic soil provided by the tall pine trees sheltering them. In a short while, masses of hydrangea will be blooming. I am guilty of “hydrangea envy” since seeing the magnificent ones in other areas and having no luck growing them well in my yard.
Onancock was rich in historic churches and lovely homes. Blocks and blocks of white homes or red brick ones with dark green shutters were pristinely maintained. As noted in other areas of the South, back yard fences were rare. Perhaps dogs and small children are better disciplined here than in Texas!
In the evening, Dan, Judy, David, and I walked several blocks to Bizotto, a lovely little restaurant, subtly lighted, with crisp spotless linens and attentive service. We had an appetizer of fried artichokes stuffed with a mild bleu cheese. It was delicious. Of course, everyone ate seafood entrees. We spent a delightful evening getting to know the Querrys, then we walked back to the boat, exchanged hugs, cards, and travel schedules. It would be wonderful to spend more time with them and hopefully we will meet again soon.
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