October 24-25                        Essex, Connecticut

As promised, the mechanic came on Monday morning.  He inspected the steering mechanism, tightened a few nuts, and added some hydraulic fluid.  He did not find the feared leak.  The problem may have resulted from a line that had not been bled properly when fluid was added at Fairhaven before our departure from Boston.  The Clinton mechanic was very knowledgeable and David maintained that he had another “expensive learning experience.”

We were ready to leave Clinton for the historic little town of Essex, located a short distance off the Sound northward up the Connecticut River.  The mouth of the river is marked by a white stone lighthouse that has been in this place for almost two hundred years.  Although the river is wide, it is quite shallow and we were careful to follow the channel markers.  The shores were lined with large, beautiful homes in the grand manner of New England architecture.  Set into expansive lawns dotted with huge trees, these pristine shingled and/or clapboard houses shared magnificent views of the river.

The Brewer Dauntless Marina is a small facility adjacent to the Essex Corinthian Yacht Club and the Essex Yacht Club, both modest structures that reportedly have excellent restaurants.  After some careful maneuvering due to the strong current, David expertly brought the boat into the dock.  The afternoon was sunny and cool.  We were eager to see Essex, one of the most picturesque villages in New England. 

A short two block walk brought us to Main Street and the center of the downtown area.  Bright yellow leaves covered the green lawns and almost every home and business was adorned with autumnal displays of chrysanthemums, pumpkins, and colored gourds.  Replicas of antique street lamps were decprated with an amusing display of scarecrows.  A local contest had produced more than fifty very clever structures that hung from lamp posts, sat on benches, or were positioned near front doors. 

Many homes and buildings bore plaques with names of first residents and dates of construction.  Most of these were built in the late eighteenth or early nineteenth centuries.  The Griswold Inn , with its locally popular bar and restaurant, first opened in 1776.  Across the street, nestled in a charming little square filled with chrysanthemums, we found The Christmas Barn.  This lovely little shop was filled with an assortment of Christmas ornaments and decorations—many locally made.  A search for a crèche for my collection was not successful.

We returned to the boat for a delightful evening watching the Texas Rangers win the fourth game of the World Series.  This was a special event as we had missed seeing the two previous contests because of satellite television failure.  The game was exciting and we were captivated by the action on the field.

Our planned departure for Mystic was delayed because of winds that produced 7 to 14 feet waves in the Sound.  Another leisurely day on the boat was followed by a late afternoon walk back to Main Street.  We visited The Griswold Inn for a glass of wine and a small plate of pate and toast.  The bar at The Gris is in a very rustic room with an ancient stove in the center.  The wide-planked wooden floor is worn from years of use and the walls are covered with old prints of sailing ships.  The adjacent restaurant retains the same historical charm of the bar but with a more formal ambiance.  We vowed to return here next summer to experience their menu. Essex is a lovely gem and definitely warrants another visit.