June 30-July 1                   Salem, Massachusetts

The mechanic arrived early and immediately found a valve that had not been turned on and our steering problem was solved.  The water problem accelerated when we realized we had no water from shore connection.  The mechanic determined our water pump may be malfunctioning but could not discover what caused the shore connection problem.  We could go no further without a water source.  David examined the shore connection to the boat and found it clogged with seaweed.  The mechanic confessed that the marina had a problem with seaweed getting into their lines.  After a thorough cleaning of the connection, the water began to flow and we decided we could cope with the water pump problem until we had the time and opportunity to have it repaired. 

After exiting the circuitous route back to the bay, we deployed the automatic pilot and found it worked perfectly.  What a relief!! Going through the canal brought back happy memories of our last trip through it in September 2011 after spending a delightful weekend in Boston with Stephanie, Joe, Blake, and Amanda.  Massachusetts Bay at the eastern entrance to the canal was littered with hundreds of lobster traps but the water was smooth as glass.  We set the automatic pilot and with minimal adjustment, we arrived six hours later in Salem Harbor.  As we passed Boston Harbor, I was thrilled to see three tall ships with full sails on their way  for the big harbor parade on the Fourth.

The Marina at Harbor Place in Salem was located in a beautifully renovated historical dock area.  It was small but our docking was easy.  We soon discovered they had some electrical difficulties which prevented us receiving ample power to consistently run our A/C.  It was almost 90 degrees and the heat was predicted to continue for two more days.  We could run our generator but we were running low on fuel.  We had been eager to leave Mystic and planned to fill our tanks at Kingman Marina but their fuel dock was not operating. We were forced to continue to Salem without re-fueling.  Our long journey had depleted our tanks and we learned after docking that fuel was available only across the harbor.  We would have to be conservative in using the generator during the day to be sure we had A/C for sleeping.  One more challenge!

The dock scene was interesting with its myriad of shops and historical buildings.  We had dinner at 65, a lovely restaurant absent of the crowds and noise that permeated the rest of the marina area.  I had a dish of delicious gnocchi that melted in the mouth and David had cod that had been seared on the outside but was moist and flavorful within.  We felt wonderfully rewarded after our long day on the sea.

Saturday was a perfect time for David to rest and heal while I walked the short distance to the Peabody Essex Museum.  The PEM is the oldest continuously operating museum in the country and is housed in a beautifully renovated historical building and a new contemporary addition with open spaces and soaring ceilings.  Its collection includes treasures amassed during Salem’s golden age of merchant shipping throughout the world.  Their impressive collection of Chinese and English porcelains, crystal, and silver are displayed in spacious galleries along with hundreds of maritime articles, maps, and models.  Fabulous priceless items from China fill several floors. There is a limited but select group of paintings by Gilbert Stuart, John Singer Sargent, and other American artists which are complemented by Impressionists such as Monet and Jongkind.  The PEM has benefited greatly from the largess of numerous prominent donors and collectors.  I loved spending four hours perusing their outstanding collection.

Blake and Amanda were scheduled to arrive on Sunday, July 1.  As scheduled at 2:30, they came by taxi from the airport in Boston.  Since their time in Salem was limited, we ate a hurried lunch at Victoria Station on Derby Wharf and then caught the Salem trolley for a town tour. This was a good plan since David was not able to walk very far.  The afternoon was warm but Blake and Amanda were relieved to escape the103- 105 degree temperatures they had experienced that week in Fort Worth. 

Salem was a prominent port in the late 1700’s and early 1800’s and wealthy merchants had built lovely homes, which had been carefully preserved. Many streets were adorned with large Federal and Neo-Classical style houses bordered by expanses of lush shrubbery and blooming hydrangeas, roses, and lilies.  Everything was clean and pristine, an indication of considerable civic pride.  In 1692 Salem had a spate of witchcraft trials and the history of those tragic events has been parlayed into a tourist phenomenon. Stores are devoted to merchandise promoting witches and their cults.  We were told that the entire month of October is a long, boisterous, and sometimes wild Halloween celebration. Hundreds of visitors come to Salem to participate in numerous events dedicated to witches and black magic.