June 24-25                               Block Island, Rhode Island

Our cruise to Block Island was uneventful except for the surprising appearance of a large black submarine surfacing near us.  New London, Connecticut is a submarine base for the navy and, apparently, they were training in the Sound. 

We had been told to go to Block Island and enjoy its special beauty and unique setting.  Entering through a narrow strait bordered with white sand beaches and an historic lighthouse, one encounters the Great Salt Pond with its surrounding beaches and hills.  It was Race Week and hundreds of sailboats filled the moorings in front of the four marinas on the far edge of the pond.  David skillfully made his way through the maze of moored boats to the crowded marina. Docking was a challenge with a strong wind pushing against us and boats close by.  We were again positioned on a stationary dock and would have to deal with the rise and fall of the tide in making our exits and entrances.

Payne’s Marina is a Block Island legend.  Boats are packed into the small spaces and people into the small bar on the dock.  An adjacent enclosed bar looks like something from a scene in a Humphrey Bogart movie with its mahogany bar, tiny piano, and weathered wooden floor in a 300 square feet space with a low ceiling.  Since we were docked nearby, we enjoyed the scene (and its music) every evening.

On our way to lunch at Dirty Dick's (A misnomer for the restaurant was immaculate and quite good!), we stopped to admire a gorgeous red Stanley Steamer puffing its way down the road.  If those authomobiles had been more efficent, Ford's combustible engine would not have been needed and we would have far less pollution today.  An opportuity missed!

Wanting to see as much as possible during our short visit, we called for a taxi to give us an hour tour of the island.  Our driver was a retired high school teacher, a longtime resident of Block Island, and very knowledge of its history and architecture.  We were immediately taken by the beautiful homes and buildings, most in Victorian style, wooden, painted white, gray, or nautical blue. Some seemed to be from Edward Hopper paintings in their isolated, vulnerable settings on top of the hills.

 Building codes are strictly enforced and growth is limited by the paucity of available residential and commercial lots.  Like Nantucket, Block Island has a conservation trust supported by a 3% tax on all land sales.  Proceeds are used to purchase available land which remains undeveloped but can be leased for agricultural purposes.  There are only 600 year-round residents on the island.  The school, all grades in one building, ranked last year as third in the state for the quality of its educational programs.   Unlike Nantucket which carefully guards its limited water supply, Block Island has 365 fresh water ponds and no shortage exists. 

In Old Harbor, the only town on the island, we were delighted to visit a small, family-owned zoo with monkeys, camels, kangaroo, and emus all roaming together in a lovely open space.  The ferries dock at Old Harbor and  surrounding the area are shops, restaurants, a movie theater, churches, etc.  The beaches on Block Island are sandy and popular with summer residents and day-trippers from the mainland.  Although some of the mansions and great hotels from the past have been destroyed by fire or hurricanes, others remain and add to the unique charm and historical significance of the island.  An improved economic situation has contributed to the restoration of lovely Victorian hotels that enjoy a brisk summer business.  Excellent restaurants are plentiful.

The dock scene on our final evening was quite active with music continuing past midnight.  It was never obtrusive.  David sat on the aft deck and observed the action.  He wanted to join it but the rising tide had elevated our boat more than three feet above the dock and he wisely chose to remain on deck.