July 24-29                      Southwest Harbor, Maine                         

Our long stay at Southwest Harbor gives us ample opportunity to complete some remodeling and repair projects.  Joe, from Ellis Boat Company, came onboard and agreed to install molding in the hall to give a finish to the separation of wallpaper and flooring.  He will also design and install teak above the helm to cover holes left by the removal of antiquated electronics.

In the meantime, David is caulking, sanding, varnishing, and completely covering most of the boat with an assortment of tools, equipment, and supplies that are never returned to their rightful place.  He is oblivious to clutter and disorder.  Mindful that such an arrangement will continue until his projects are finished, I remind myself it will not be a permanent situation—order someday will return.  I am delighted that this year, for the first time in two years, David is feeling well enough to be interested in working on the boat.  He enjoys these activities but they are not fun when one is in pain.

The dinghy straps (used so well in hoisting our washer/dryer from the dock onto the boat) were worn and stained.  The heavy and expensive hardware was in good condition.  We only needed to replace the straps.  My visit to the nearby sail maker was not successful.  She reluctantly inspected the straps, made a call, informed me the black strapping I wanted was available only in 1000 yard rolls, and she could not do the job. It was clear she was not interested in my small project.

Leaving her shop, we walked across the street to West Marine, found a roll of black strapping, purchased 40 yards at a reasonable price, and, using information from a friend, drove four miles to Bass Harbor, and found the lovely home of Ms. Johnson, a seamstress for boat builders.  She inspected our straps, determined the project was doable, and told us the work would be finished within an hour.

We used the time to have lunch at Seafood Ketch, a charming seaside restaurant in Bass Harbor with an incredible view of the bay with the blue mountains beyond.  David raved about his steak sandwich and my crab cakes with lobster bisque sauce were excellent.  We returned to Ms. Johnson’s shop and, as promised, our dinghy straps were ready for us.  Her charge was reasonable and we were delighted with the work.

Lobster rolls are popular on menus from Cape Cod northward (McDonald’s serves them in Maine).  As we have easy access to lobster in our marina, I asked a local for her recipe.  It was surprisingly simple:  chopped fresh lobster meat, finely chopped celery, mayonnaise to taste, and a sprinkling of Old Bay Seasoning.  Mix well and refrigerate for at least an hour.  Lightly toast buttered sub or hot dog buns.  Add chopped lettuce to the bun and top with the lobster mixture.  The result is wonderful!

In a telephone conversation,  my neighbor and good friend, Esther Huckaby, told me about One Man’s Meat, a compilation of essays by E. B. White written from 1937-1942.  She described it as a “Maine classic” as the author writes about his life on a Maine farm during that turbulent period before and during WW II.  Esther is a voracious reader and I greatly respect her choices.  To my surprise and delight, I uncovered a tattered and yellowed paperback copy of One Man’s Meat at the Southwest Harbor Library Book Sale. 

I was familiar with E. B. White as the author of the children’s classic, “Charlotte’s Web” and the co-author of “The Element of Style,” a manual on writing considered indispensable by Stephen King and many other authors, but had not heard of “One Man’s Meat.”  I found it to be a treasure, with beautifully written short essays conveying the insightful, often humorous ruminations of the author on his family, neighbors, nation, and the world.  Reading this book is giving a gift to yourself! Since my copy is in a deteriorated condition, I shall try to find another on Amazon.  It is a reminder of the goodness and beauty found in people and the value of the simple joys of life.

 

 

 

 

July 15-23                      Southwest Harbor, Maine

The weather in Southwest Harbor was sunny and hot with temperatures in the 90’s during the four days David was in Texas.  He reported Fort Worth had rain and cool, delightful weather.   I had remained on the boat to avoid the horrible heat of Texas and it was cooler there than in Maine!   Sloth was quickly assumed after David’s departure and I spent several lovely days doing as little as possible and reading for hours.  The cleaning, washing, etc. were finally completed hours before David’s return.

For three days, David methodically dismantled the closet doors that hid the non-functioning washer/dryer, removed the chrome handrails, sawed and disassembled the steps leading from the galley to the hall, and moved all obstructions.  Efforts to pull the unit from its secured position were futile.  The only solution was to separate the washer from the dryer and then disassemble each of them.  We were fortunate to have the unexpected help of Miller, our dockhand from last year who had returned for a brief visit.  He is strong, smart, and willing to tackle almost any job.  With his help, the unit was taken apart and removed in pieces from the boat.

The day of the scheduled delivery was the foggiest day we had seen but the guys arrived with the new appliance as scheduled.  They immediately informed us they could not get it on the boat and if they did, they could not install it.  We refused to take no for an answer and told them we would take full responsibility for any damage.  We kept admonishing them, “it’s not a problem, it’s a challenge.”

Using the davit on the bridge, the hoist was lowered and attached to the canvas straps (formerly used to hold the dinghy in place on the bridge) around the unit on the dolly.  With ease and precision, David maneuvered the unit off the dock, into the air where it was turned sideways, pulled across the water, and onto the aft deck.  I was greatly relieved the straps  held and my new washer/dryer had not gone into the water!  With considerable effort and an offer of an additional $100 each to increase motivation, the unit was finally in place.  Without David’s guidance, perseverance, and monetary reward, the installers never would have attempted the job and we would have lacked the considerable convenience of having onboard laundry facilities.  It WAS a challenge!

 

 

 

July 13-14                      Southwest Harbor

We rose early to have breakfast at the Sea Biscuit Café, a charming place with a menu focusing on local Maine home cooking.  David and I enjoyed excellent omelets and local sausage.  With charming ambiance, great service, wonderful food, and reasonable prices, this little café, serving only breakfast and lunch, is popular with locals and visitors.  We plan to return with our guests who will come in August.

We were delighted to learn we were once again in time for the annual Flamingo Days Parade.  It is a fun occasion with floats, classic cars, and musical groups.  All are bedecked with pink plastic or feathered flamingoes, pink balloons, and festive decorations.  It is a great occasion for local communities to show their magnificent and massive fire engines and a wonderful celebration of small-town American life at its best!

The charming Southwest Harbor Library was again having their annual book sale.  I spent an hour perusing the many volumes on display and carried back to the boat ten books for me, three for Winn, and two for Dave.  I found three Diane Mott Davidson mysteries I had not read.  Her books fall into the “fun stuff” category of reading—good stories with believable characters.

Sunday morning I bade farewell to David at 6:45 AM as he left by taxi for the airport.  He would fly to Boston and then on to Texas.  I would be alone on the boat for four days.  It would be a good time to do some cleaning, complete some projects, and read “fun stuff.”  Of course, he was immediately missed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

July 11-12                                    Southwest Harbor, Maine           

We were hopeful to have an early start for our journey to Southwest Harbor but the fog remained so dense we could not see past the marina.  I walked to the office and told them we would remain another day. At 10:30 AM, David declared the fog had lifted sufficiently for us to start our cruise.  I was dubious but, as I am often reminded, he is the Captain.  Five minutes after leaving the marina, we were surrounded by fog and limited visibility necessitated the use of radar as well as GPS.

 

 

 

We proceeded slowly and carefully for almost four hours before we were rewarded with good visibility.  Misting rain and overcast skies kept us from enjoying the beautiful scenery we had witnessed on our journey last year to Southwest Harbor.  As we turned into Western Way, a passage leading from the Atlantic into Somes Sound and Southwest Harbor,  the clouds lifted, the sun shone brightly, and the sky became a brilliant blue. 

Micah met us at the dock and, as promised, assigned us to a great position where we could enjoy the view of the water and boats in front of the marina.  It was 6:30 PM.  We had successfully completed a long and challenging cruise.

On Friday, we enjoyed the marina ambiance with the surrounding hills covered in evergreens and the beautiful blue water.  Lobsters were ordered for dinner from Micah who would meet one of the lobster boats that unload nearby and deliver them to our boat.

The washer part of our dryer/washer combo developed a leak and the spin cycle was out of balance.  Since it appeared the boat had practically been built around this unit, we had long dreaded the day when problems would require it being removed.  David disassembled the cabinet work holding the appliance, disconnected it, and removed anything that might hinder its removal.  Since it was original to the boat, we decided it was not cost-effective to repair.  A new unit was located on the internet, purchased, and delivery scheduled for July 23.  The laundry facilities at the marina would be available for use meanwhile.  Now the challenge was to remove the old unit.  Micah promised to find help for us.

The dinghy’s 40 hph Yamaha motor barely ran despite considerable time and money spent in repair.  With Micah’s help, we located a guy in Bar Harbor who convinced us he could clean the carburetor. We would be spared the expense of buying a new motor.  David lowered the dinghy, started the motor, and we slowly cruised across the bay to the ramp where our repair person waited.  He seemed very knowledgeable and promised to return the repaired motor and dinghy to us in a week.  Not only do we need the dinghy for fun cruising but, as Dave reminded us, it could be a life-saving means if we had to abandon the boat in case of fire or collision.

 

 

July 9-10                                      Boothbay Harbor, Maine

Our seven hour cruise to Boothbay was boring and rougher than the day before.  At one time, we were more than eight miles off the shore and I was hoping to see whales but none appeared.  The sky remained white with intermittent fog. 

We chose the Tugboat Marina for our stay in Boothbay.  Located near the main street with shops and restaurants nearby, the marina offers convenience as well as excellent dock help.  For some unknown reason, we had terrible phone and internet reception throughout the marina area.

Our stay at Boothbay was quiet.  A walk through town and across the long pedestrian bridge across the harbor ended in lunch at Boathouse Bistro, a rustic place with a terrace.  David had a smoked seafood platter and I enjoyed fried beer-battered halibut.  It was an indulgence but worth the calories! Dense fog rolled in over the hills with misting rain.  We returned to the boat for naps and chores.

 

 

July 8                                      New Castle, New Hampshire

Tuesday morning was hotter and steamier than previous days.  We were glad to move north to cooler climes.  The wind was variable but stayed below 12 knots and our cruise to New Castle was without incident.  Located at the mouth of the Piscataqua River, the Town of New Castle is only a few miles from Portsmouth.  We did not want to repeat our journey last year to Portsmouth against strong currents. We decided to stay at Wentworth by the Sea Marina.  It was an excellent choice with beautiful docks, great assistance, and many other amenities including a courtesy car.

Above the marina does the magnificent Wentworth Inn, an imposing white structure with a red roof resembling the great hotels in Georgia and Hilton Head.  The grounds were pristine with flowers in large beds and lush shrubbery scattered among the huge granite outcroppings.  With six restaurants, pools, etc., Wentworth Inn would be an ideal place to vacation.  We regretted we would be there only one night.

Using the courtesy car, we went into Portsmouth for supplies and were able to see some of the gorgeous residential areas of the city.  Blocks and blocks of beautiful stately homes lined the tree-lined streets.  Flowers were abundant with huge bushes of hydrangeas in shades of blue and pink dominating the landscapes.

At the local Ace Hardware, we encountered a guy who mentioned working for a Fort Worth company and spending considerable time in our city.  He remembered it best for a great barbeque place.  He recalled it being in a red building on Belknap Street.  David asked if the waitresses were “good-looking girls” and he enthusiastically replied, “Yes, that’s the one!”  They had a long conversation about The Pit and the merits of its barbeque and wait staff.  MEN!!

We barely made it back to the boat before the rain began.  Dinner was on board as we prepared to depart the following day.

 

 

July 4-7 Boston, Massachusetts

July 4-7                          Boston, Massachusetts

We eagerly awaited Dave’s arrival on the morning of July 4.  Shortly after eleven o’clock, he came to the marina from the airport by water taxi.  The driver provided service directly to our dock.  Dave was excited to see the hundreds of boats in the harbor and the marina.  For two days, we had witnessed a steady influx of boats and people coming to the waterfront. Unknown to us, they were there to witness a special event that occurs only once each year. 

To our delight, we looked across the bow and saw the magnificent U.S.S Constitution coming into the harbor preceded and followed by fireboats spouting massive streams of water.  The sails were furled and it was towed by a small tug.  More than 200 years old, the Constitution remains a commissioned and manned ship in the U.S. Navy.  It is docked near the Bunker Hill Monument and is a popular attraction for visitors to Boston.

Dave was ready to enjoy some great seafood and our lunch choice was only a few steps from the gate of the marina.  The Chart House, located in an historic building on Long Wharf, offered a great selection of menu choices in a pleasant, quiet, and lovely setting.  David and Dave had fish and chips after an appetizer of delicious calamari.  I had a lovely molded three-layered salad of chopped avocado, mango, and crab.  It was so beautiful I was tempted to photograph it!

We were disappointed to learn the fireworks would take place on the Charles River near Cambridge and would not be visible from our marina.  We decided to go there and be a part of the huge watching crowd was a choice we would not make.  We opted to wait until 8:30 PM, walk the short distance to the Italian section of Boston in the North End and have dinner. Dave was delighted with this unique area and its many restaurants, delis, and shops.  The streets were well-lighted and people everywhere were conversing in Italian.  The restaurants are noted for being some of the best in the city.  Our choice was Euno, chosen after considerable internet research, and it proved to be perfect.  Located on Salem Street, one of the most historic in the area, it is intimate, quiet, and lovely.  The service was excellent and so was the food.  David had a succulent grilled veal chop on a bed of sautéed broccoli rabe (his favorite), Dave chose grilled sea bass, and I enjoyed handmade gnocchi in a gorgonzola cream sauce.  The guys raved about the wine (I had a prosecco) from Italy—Tre Saggi or Three Wise Men.

On Friday, we took a tour of Boston on one of the many buses that come near our marina.  I booked a comprehensive tour that would include Cambridge and Harvard.  We expected it to last about four hours.  We prolonged it by leaving for a visit to the U.S.S. Constitution.  We enjoyed boarding the ship and seeing the massive cannons above and below deck.  It has undergone considerable reconstruction and is in excellent condition.  The huge open stove and oven used for cooking meals for 500 sailors was on the second deck.  We marveled that anyone successfully could use such equipment in a tightly confined area. 

 The hot, humid weather encouraged us to seek a cool place  for lunch.  We left the tour  to dine at P. F. Chang near the huge campus of M.I.T.   The tour of Cambridge and the Harvard area was a disappointment as our driver was more interested in being a not-so-funny comedian than a competent guide.  Fortunately, we left him and continued the tour of Boston proper with another guide who gave us historical information and local insights.  We arrived back at the boat shortly after five o’clock.  David and Dave agreed they had learned more about Boston than they really needed to know! 

On Saturday, Dave went on the bridge and attempted to secure the dinghy which had shifted on our journey to Boston.  Instead of completing the task, he and David decided to lower the dinghy and test the motor.  In doing so, one of the canvas straps slipped and the dinghy fell with a loud noise against the boat.  There was no damage.  The motor, repaired several times in the past two years at considerable cost, would not run.  Apparently, the carburetor was ruined by improper maintenance when the motor was winterized in 2011.  When the dinghy was raised, the latch on one of the straps caught David’s finger and made a deep cut.  He bled profusely and Dave rushed to wash away the blood before I saw it.  Fortunately, the cut was less severe than they thought.  First aid and a Band-Aid took care of the injury.

Dave and I enjoy getting up early on Sunday, drinking coffee, reading the New York Times, and watching CBS Sunday Morning.  This Sunday we decided instead to take a walk before the day turned hot. We left David sleeping soundly in the cool quiet of the master stateroom.  Strolling through the North End in the early morning, We sneaked a look into the open doorway of the Old North Church as the priest was conducting an early service.  Afterwards, we stopped at Ferrara on Salem Street for breakfast.  It was an excellent choice.  My eggs and smoked salmon with a side of tomatoes and bufalo mozzarella were outstanding.  Dave loved his brandied pear French toast with a side of eggs.  We ordered pancakes and bacon to return to the boat for David.

Dave left by water taxi late that afternoon.  We hated to see him leave. This weekend had been a rare occasion to have time and conversation with our son.  It gave us an opportunity to appreciate his innate gentleness and kindness as well as his considerable intelligence and abilities.  He called from the airport and expressed again how much he enjoyed being with us in Boston and on the boat. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

June 29-July 3 Boston Massachusetts

At 5:30 AM, we were awakened by a tremendous storm with rolling thunder and flashing lightening.  This continued for more than twenty minutes before it abated to mere rain.  Knowing we would be cruising later, we were comforted the storm had come early and were hopeful it would subside before we planned to leave.  As we pulled away from the gas dock at 9:15 AM, the wind was mild and the sky was clearing.  We look forward to returning to Sandwich Marina in August on our way “down south.”

Except for one brief period when we encountered heavy fog, our journey was uneventful with little rain and pleasantly rolling seas.  Once again, the apprehension spawned by frightening weather reports had been unnecessary.  We reached Boston Harbor in  sunshine and blue skies.

Boston Waterboat Marina is a jewel in the marina world.  Located on the harbor and benefitting from  significant improvements in the area resulting from completion of “The Big Dig,” which buried an ugly freeway beneath a long expanse of green space, the marina offers accessibility to historical sites, shops, restaurants, and transportation.  It is expensive but it is worth it! We were fortunate to arrive before the July 4^th crowd and were assigned the most desirable docking position in the marina.  We had an unobstructed view of the harbor from the bow and a similar view of the city from the stern.  A great place for people and boat watching!