June 26-28                        Sackets Harbour, New York

As predicted, the rain was gone and the weather was sunny and warm.  Brian had other duties and could not help us for several hours.  David and I decided to do the job ourselves.  With Gorilla tape, we mended the tear in the canvas and began to put the top in place.  Not an easy job for it required standing on small ladders and climbing onto the console.  Being very careful not to fall, we were able to finish much of the work needed to secure the canvas.  Brian finally arrived and did the final tugging and zipping needed to finish the job.  Within a few minutes, we were ready to leave.

As David backed the boat out of the slip into the narrow channel, the crew of a sailboat docked behind us at the fuel dock watched as the massive hulk of The Bottom Line came closer and closer.  Unaware that David was watching his stern on the GPS camera, they began to yell at us to stop.  In plenty of time, David went forward and made the turn needed to leave the marina.  The guys in the sailboat sheepishly waved and wished us a good trip.

Lake Ontario was a beautiful expanse of calm blue water. One of the five Great Lakes, Lake Ontario is 53 miles wide and 193 miles long with an average depth of 283 feet (in some places, it is more than 800 feet deep).  It is governed jointly by Canada and the United States.  We set the boat on autopilot, David took a nap, and I watched the GPS and worked on my needlepoint.  We saw only two small sailboats as we headed toward Sackets Harbour, New York.

Sackets Harbour was a battleground during the War of 1812.  Once a thriving boat building community and a navy base during World War II, it is today a small, picturesque village with many historical homes and buildings.  Our marina, Navy Point Marine, was a few blocks from the small downtown area.  We were pleased to see our Canadian friends, Michael and Sylie Heap whom we had first met in Watertown, and invited them for drinks on our boat the next evening.  We walked to Main Street and visited several of the shops and perused the menus of the five or six restaurants.  Our galley was closed for the evening.  We would dine out.

          

 

We went to The Boathouse for a drink and appetizer.  Their spicy calamari with Thai sauce was outstanding.  In an authentic boathouse from the past century, the restaurant’s interior was sleek and modern.  We enjoyed sitting on their spacious deck overlooking the harbor (and our boat docked across the way).  Our waiter, an affable, handsome young man was a graduate of Texas A & M, a first grade teacher in Florida, and a waiter at Sackets Harbour during the summer. He was enthusiastic about the town and the area.

For dinner, we chose a charming, little place with outside dining in a garden-like setting.  Ferns, hostas, blooming plants, and tall trees with overhanging branches made Tin Pan Galley the most appealing place in town.  Reviews and recommendations were excellent.  We were seated immediately but within a few minutes, all the available tables were filled and the small bar area was packed with waiting diners.

To our delight, a musician with a bank of electronic equipment began to play the kind of music we enjoy.  He was adept in performing the arrangements of Lou Rawls, Bobby Darrin, Frank Sinatra, Neil Diamond, Jim Reeves, and others.  The weather, ambiance, and music were wonderful complements to the excellent food.  David had a delicious broiled sea bass and I enjoyed vegetable tortellini in a light Parmesan-cream sauce.  To prolong a delightful evening, we ordered cappuccino and a Brandy Alexander. 

Friday was a good day for postponed projects.  The hatch to the bridge from the aft deck leaked badly and the wooden bottom had become discolored.  David brought out his “Home Depot” of supplies and tools and began to work.  Not satisfied with a simple cosmetic fix, he decided to do major sanding, varnishing, and replacing the worn seal with a new one.  This was not a job to be completed soon.

Our supply of wine was depleted and since Sackets Harbour sells spirits only in restaurants, we ordered a case from a vendor in Watertown.  This was delivered promptly by a gracious young man who refused a tip!  With cheeses, olives, bruschetta, and fruit, we were ready to entertain.

 Michael Heap is a retired charter accountant (similar to a C.P.A. in the U.S.) and his wife is retired from a variety of teaching/training positions.  They live in Canada but often visit for long periods in England.  Michael is originally from Wales and retains a lovely accent.  They plan to buy a longboat, commonly used on canals and waterways in England, and live on it in that country for part of each year.  This year they will summer on their present sailboat in Sackets Harbour.

We were pleased to be joined by Tanya Binford, who had arrived in the marina a few hours earlier.  Tanya had been with us at Amsterdam and had amazed us by her expertise in solo handling her 25’ Ranger tug.  Tanya is a psychiatric nurse from Tucson who resolved several years ago to buy a boat and complete The Great Loop.  She is fulfilling a dream!  The locks on the Erie Canal had been a formidable challenge for her to accomplish alone.  After being battered and bruised on several of the earlier ones, she talked to the lockmasters and they gave her “an easy lift” with much less turbulence.  Tanya is determined to continue her journey and we are eager to follow it on her blog (tanyagreatloop.blogspot.com).   This evening proved again that people are the most interesting parts of our travels. 

Awakened again to a beautiful sunny day, we left the marina for a walk to the nearby site of a battleground during the War of 1812.  Today it is a lovely expanse of green lawn with tall trees overlooking the bay. Several stone monuments commemorate the historical events in the area. We continued with a leisurely walk through the charming downtown area.  A visit to a dilapidated, crowded, and dirty antique shop unexpectedly produced a great book on Joseph Duveen, a famous art dealer to Rockefeller, Morgan, Mellon, and wealthy individuals.  

The local art society was having a show and we were invited in by Ms. Summerville, a pretty little lady who was probably in her nineties and walking with a cane.  As we were studying the paintings on display (most of them were quite good and some were exceptional), she approached me and said, "I must ask you something since you are from Texas."  She said "I am a Republican but Texas Republicans seem to be crazy to elect some of the people now in office.  I sent money to that lady who is running for governor.  Some of my friends did, too.  Does she have a chance?"  I had to admit that Wendy Davis' chances of being elected are probably not too favorable at the present time but I, too, was a supporter and keeping the faith.

Outside the gallery, a local artist was working on a painting which we admired.  When he learned we were boating in the area, he advised us to go to Adams next week for the cheese festival.  He would be exhibiting a carving of a mouse made from a $400.00 block of cheese!  He proudly showed us a clay model.

As we returned to the boat, we noticed the white gazebo in a park overlooking the harbor was filled with a small crowd.  Ahead of us on the sidewalk, we saw four girls dressed alike followed by a bride and her escort.  As we came closer, we realized this was a most unusual wedding party.  The dresses were made of a shiny pink camouflage printed fabric.  The bride's white dress included a long train of this fabric.  The flower girl was dressed in similar fabric in blue.  The men in the party had suits of black and green camouflage denim fabric with red ties.  ALL members of the wedding party wore FLIP-FLOPS.  It was a Duck Dynasty wedding in New York!!!!!

June 23-25                               Oswego, New York

We left early from Brewerton and with some trepidation approached the next lock.  Dave was gone and the responsibility for the lines and fenders was now mine alone.  Following his instructions, I positioned the fenders high and low on the starboard side and prepared to catch one of the hanging lines with my bow hook.  All went well.  Again we were downlocking and there was much less turbulence than we had experienced when uplocking. 

We have been amazed by the consistent excellent maintenance of the New York Canal System.  Apparently, the workers spend much of the winter when the canals are closed to clean, repair, and paint.  The bright royal blue and gold colors of the NYCS are displayed on the boats, work barges, railings, gates, etc.  We saw nothing faded or rusted.  Everything was pristine!

We exited the lock to a beautiful scene.  The banks were lined with pine trees and lovely large homes, some with little gazebos in front (in Holland, they are called tea houses).  We were grateful for another sunny, beautiful day with little wind.  Large faded red barns with adjacent silos told of the rural history of this area.  Another reminder of days long ago was clothes lines with laundry hanging from them.  Flocks of Canadian geese were common sights and it was  amusing to see them diving in the river with their rears sticking up like little white flags.

To our dismay, a tug pushing a small barge came into view before the next lock.  As commercial vessels have priority, we had to follow it all day.  The locks were not large enough to accommodate the tug, barge, and our boat, so we were forced to wait at each one.  Most waiting times were 15-20 minutes and required us to tie to a bollard on shore and keep the bow thruster engaged to make sure we did not hit the concrete walls.  Approaching the junction of three rivers (Seneca, Oswego, and Erie), we made ready to exit the Erie for the Oswego. We were hoping the tug and his cargo would continue on the Erie Canal but this did not happen.

Several smaller boats accompanied us in most of the locks and were not happy with our diesel fumes.  I wasn't happy with the fumes either.  I was subjected to a blast each time I moved toward the stern to adjust the fenders or pull on a line.  After nine locks, it was a relief to reach the port city of Oswego on the shore of Lake Ontario. We docked at the small Oswego Marina and decided it was a good place for more R & R.

The following day gave us an opportunity to put the radar arch, antennas, and canvas in place.  Brian, an affable young man from the marina shop came to help us.  We had been assured we would not encounter more low bridges on our journey. Our satellite television reception was immediately restored and we gained improvement in the accuracy of the GPS. 

It was time for some personal grooming.  We walked several blocks to a lovely little day spa.  David received a needed haircut and I had a pedicure.  Roughing it is not my style!  Just as we finished, the sky darkened, lightening cracked, and thunder echoed.  We hurried to the boat and made it just before a torrential rainstorm hit.  We had a very dirty boat and I was glad to have it washed by nature and not by me.  David made a wonderful clams and spaghetti dish for dinner and we enjoyed the rain.

It continued to be stormy on Wednesday so we delayed our departure from Oswego.  David was often on the phone with his office and I worked on my blog and cleaned the interior of the boat.  Unfortunately, the storm had blown loose the canvas over the bridge.  There was a tear in it which would need repair.  Nothing could be done while it was wet.  We were hoping a nearby canvas repair shop could do a quick job for us the next day.

June 21-22                           Brewerton, New York

Saturday morning we left the boat at 7:15 AM.  We drove to the Syracuse International Airport, said good-bye to Dave, and were leaving the airport grounds at 7:43 AM.  Although our guide book had said we would be minutes from the airport, we were amazed to reach it in such a short time. Dave was reluctant to leave and we hated to see him go.  It had been a wonderful five days with our son.   After completing a few errands, we filled the car with gas and returned to the marina.

The weather was cool and sunny.  We needed some R & R time after a busy week.  We were in the perfect place with a great view of the Oneida River from the aft deck.  Reading, work, and relaxing made for a great weekend.

June 20                          Brewerton, New York

The beautiful, sunny weather was with us once more.  We left early from Little Falls and reached the lock before opening time.  Could have slept thirty minutes more!  In Ilion, the marina gas dock was conveniently located only a few yards from the canal.  Diesel fuel is not readily available and David is careful our tanks do not get too low.  Re-fueling was easily accomplished and we were pleased to see our fuel consumption was much less than anticipated.  At $4.00 per gallon, diesel is a major expense.

The locks were a challenge today as we seemed to be making fender and line adjustments for each one.  The turbulence kept pushing the stern toward the wall and David was constantly employing the bow thruster to protect the front of the boat.  Dave worked hard to keep everything safe.

Locks #21 and #22 were downlocking instead of uplocking.  The water in the lock goes out rather than coming in.  The turbulence is much less and we found it easier to handle the boat.  Leaving Lock #22, we encountered Oneida Lake, approximately 20 miles across and 4 miles wide.  We had been warned that its small size is deceiving as it catches crosswinds that can make for choppy water.  As we approached, we saw miles of white caps but Dave insisted they were no problem for a boat the size and weight of The Bottom Line.  He was correct.

We exited the lake at Brewerton, a small fishing/summer resort without frills.  Brewerton Marina had limited space for large vessels and we were docked adjacent to the fuel dock.  This gave us a great view of the river and the activity there.  The marina was a rustic facility but it had a beautiful green lawn with blooming plants and the dockmaster/owner was very pleasant and helpful.  Best of all, they had a courtesy car we could use to go to dinner that evening and take Dave to the airport the following morning.

We drove about ten miles (few restaurants and little shopping is located near the marina) to Red Lobster for a seafood dinner.  We usually prefer local places to chains but we have found this restaurant offers excellent seafood, good service, and pleasant ambiance.  Dave was incredulous but agreed with us after enjoying a delicious medley of lobster, crab, and shrimp in a great sauce.  Their cheesy biscuits are wonderful.

June 19                 Little Falls, New York

The weather gods were with us!  We awakened to a beautiful, sunny day with little wind.  Together with some of our fellow boaters, we left Amsterdam and headed toward Lock #11.  We were hoping to make Ilion our final destination for the day.  As the locks closed at 6:00 PM, we were on a tight schedule for we had planned a detour at Canajoharie to see the Arkell Museum. Docking was easy at Canajoharie.  We pulled in to an empty space at a small riverside park.  Dave jumped to the dock and within minutes we were leaving the boat to walk two blocks into town.  On our way, we saw a marker honoring John Winn.  As Winn is a family name for Amanda and the first name of our great-grandson, we considered it worthy of a picture.

 Like many of the small New England towns, once large, thriving, and prosperous businesses have departed.  In Canajoharie, Beech-Nut Industries, most famous for its chewing gum, once occupied an impressive industrial plant near the center of town.  It now sits vacant and in need of maintenance.  The company’s manufacturing interests are elsewhere.  The town presents a brave, confident face with baskets of lovely flowers hanging from posts and pristine sidewalks.

As we walked to town, we were startled to see coming down the street an Amish couple sitting in a small black buggy pulled by a horse.  Dressed in traditional black clothing in a style from the nineteenth century, the man wore a long beard and the woman a simple bonnet.  We learned later that the area has a significant Amish population.  They own large farms in the area and are reportedly quite prosperous.  They have no electricity in their homes and no tractors or mechanized equipment on their farms.  When Hurricane Irene brought devastation and massive flooding to Canajoharie, the Amish worked long hours to help the community.  They wanted no pay but used their skills in building and carpentry to restore homes and businesses.

Lunch was at a local café that seemed more like West Texas than New England.  The setting was tacky, the waitresses chatty, and the food presentation decidedly plain.  Dave ordered the special of the day, chicken and biscuits, and received a huge plate covered in white gravy.  To our amazement, he declared it to be good.  My veal parmesan was equally unattractive but was tender and flavorful.  David rhapsodized over his liver with onions and bacon.  He said it was much better than the same dish in New York last week that cost more than three times as much!

The Arkell Museum was a gift from the foundation of the Arkell family, the originators of Beech-Nut and pillars of Canajoharie for several generations.  Housed in a lovely, modern building adjacent to the library, the museum’s permanent collection is small but noteworthy.

 On exhibit were prints of black, white, and gray illustrations of Winslow Homer from 1859-1906 publications such as Harper’s Weekly and The Century Magazine.  Titled “A View from the Shore, Winslow Homer’s Impressions of the Coast,” the prints had an overall theme of life near the sea.  Like N. C. Wyeth, Homer gained early attention as an illustrator for periodicals before acquiring fame as a painter.

We were also pleased to view a small collection of landscapes by another American artist, George Innis.  His works have a sentimental appeal with rainbows and flowery settings but the detail and beauty of execution make them worthwhile.

On view also was a pictorial history of the Arkell family and Beech-Nut.  Besides being innovative in marketing and production, Beech-Nut offered amenities such as a display of art and piano music in the company lunchroom.  We enjoyed our stop at Canajoharie and our visit to the Arkell Museum, another of America’s lovely small art museums.

Back on the boat, we met again some of our friends from our previous dockage at Waterford and Amsterdam.  As we exited Lock #14, we saw pulled to the side the beautiful 52’ trawler with a blue hull we had admired in Waterford.  We learned later the throttle reportedly jammed and the captain was unable to stop the boat’s forward motion.  Racing past other boats in the lock, it slammed into the rear doors and sustained significant damage to the hull.

We barely made it to Lock #17 before it closed for the day.  We were awed when its massive doors opened and we saw the cavernous interior.  This lock has a lift higher than any other in the world—more than 40 feet.  The tremendous amount of water pouring into the closed space created a turbulence which required careful attention to lines and fenders as the boat could be tossed onto the walls of the lock.  Dave made sure that did not happen to The Bottom Line.  He and I watched with horror as two children, approximately 10 and 12  years old, were allowed to scramble about on the bow of a small 21’ boat bouncing to and fro.  If either had fallen into the murky water of the lock, it would have been difficult to rescue them.  They could have been swept beneath the boat or crushed between the boat and the wall of the lock.  Their life jackets would have been useless in the turbulence.  Fortunately, they survived the negligence of the adults onboard.

It was now too late to make it to Ilion, located past Lock #18.  We docked at the lovely municipal marina in Little Falls.  It was another opportunity to visit again with our boating friends.  Once more our dockage fee was $58.00!  Dinner was on the boat.

June 18                          Amsterdam, New York

Before embarking the following morning, we needed to buy our canal permit.  To expedite the process, Dave and I trekked up the hill about two blocks away to the office of the lockmaster.  The permit costs $55.00 and is valid for ten days.  That is the only charge for recreational boaters to utilize the four canal systems of New York.  It is an amazing bargain as the cost of operation for these massive locks and lengthy waterways must be considerable.

Dave has the inquisitiveness of a ten-year and when the lockmaster realized he had an appreciative audience, he gave him an extensive tour of the controls and mechanisms for the lock.  Much of the equipment was more than 100 years old but was clean, painted/polished to look like new.  Everything brass is polished each week.  The offices, grounds, and work areas were pristine.  We were impressed by the obvious pride the employees show in their jobs.  Returning to the boat, we noticed an area of concrete embedded with barefoot prints and hoof prints.  This was a small commemorative to the men and donkeys who for many years walked on paths beside the canals and pulled the barges through the waterways.

People are always the most interesting part of our travels.  Everyone (except the Stovalls) seem to travel with dogs.  Camping beside us at Waterford was a young man who was making The Great Loop in a kayak.  He had with him a tent and some bare essentials.  His trip would be approximately 2500 miles.

We went through Lock #2 with some of friends from the Waterford dock but soon passed them after exiting.  For a long distance, we were in the Mohawk River, which is often more than 200 yards wide and winds through communities with names of Revolutionary War heroes.  Using our charts, we were able to monitor distances between locks and heights of bridges and surge gates that crossed the river. 

We were alone in most of the locks and usually entered immediately without waiting.  Lockmasters were always courteous and helpful.  It was a challenge to ready the fenders, move them into the correct positions as the water came in and the boat rose, and keep the stern from pushing against the wall as it was caught in the current.

 

As the locks were large, we were not crowded even when accompanied by other vessels.  To our surprise, we encountered only recreational boats.  We saw no barges, tugs, or freighters after leaving the Hudson River.

After exiting Lock #10, we decided we stop at Amsterdam.  Some of our fellow boaters from Waterford were there, too.  All boats were tied to a terminal wall but exiting was not difficult as there was no tide.  The area was beautifully maintained with ample space to walk.  The dockage fee was $1.00 per foot of the length of the boat.  Amazing!  We again dined onboard.  David broiled Coho salmon and I made a Caesar salad with anchovies.

June 17                 Waterford, New York

Studying our charts, we realized we would soon encounter many low bridges.  It was time to take down the radar arch, canvas over the bridge helm area, and the antennas.  Before leaving Baltimore last year and after we considered making the Down East Circle Cruise, we had measured the boat from the waterline to the top of the windshield.  We needed to be below 20 feet.  We measured 18 feet and 6 inches.  With our equipment lying on deck, we would not have television or GPS until everything was replaced upon completion of our journey through the Erie and Oswego Canals.  To our surprise, the GPS did continue to work!

Today we would go through our first lock.  After a five hour journey, we passed through Albany, the capitol city of New York.  Massive state buildings were visible from the river.  We regretted time did not allow us to stop for a visit.  Here we encountered our first low bridge, one of many to come.  Needing only a few feet of clearance, we lowered the antennas and I nervously stood on the bow to observe if we could pass under the girders without slamming into the upper part of the boat.  It was a tense moment as we began to glide forward.  We cleared with ample space to spare.

Troy is almost a suburb of Albany and it has re-invented itself as a popular restaurant and club scene.  To our dismay, the Troy Marina listed in our guide book was no longer open.  We were unable to secure the canal permit and extra fuel in our tanks needed to lower the boat for better clearance under the low bridges.  Looking ahead, we saw a massive outpouring of water from the dam across the river.  All three of us were studying the chart and consulting the GPS as we tried to locate the lock we knew was there.  Hidden by trees on a small island protruding into the river,  the lock remained invisible to us until we were with several hundred yards of its massive doors adjacent to the dam.

Troy Lock is the #1 lock of the Erie Canal. It is a Federal lock and the others are owned and operated by the State of New York.  Dave had never been in a lock and he was awed by the experience of being inside a huge concrete box as massive torrents of water poured into the area. Unlike the many locks we encountered on the Rhine, Main, and Danube Rivers, the sides of the lock were devoid of layers of green, slimy moss. The rough surface was clean but presented a hazard to fenders as they rubbed hard against them.

Almost as soon as we exited Troy Lock, we saw a large blue highway-like sign with arrows pointing right to the Champlain Canal and left to the Erie Canal.  The Champlain Canal is a more direct route than the Erie to the St. Lawrence Seaway but it tends to be narrow and shallow in many areas.  It would not be possible for The Bottom Line to navigate that route.  We turned to the left and immediately saw the small docking area at Waterford.

With confident maneuvering, David skillfully docked the boat between two others on the terminal wall.  The crews of the boats came forward to catch our lines and immediately engaged in conversation.   The dockmaster proudly showed us his 1967 Hatteras tied to an adjacent dock.  Carefully maintained, it was a beauty with a dark blue hull and white superstructure. 

Waterford has an impressive visitor center and small downtown area with several recommended restaurants.  We opted to dine onboard from our copious supply of provisions.   We had delicious rainbow trout with baby green beans and tiny tomatoes.  The charge for overnight docking with electricity was $1.00 per foot of the length of the boat.  Never have we had such inexpensive fees.  

Several hours after going to bed, I was awakened by thunder and lightning.  Remembering we had been complacent about the weather and had left open the doors and plastic flaps on the aft deck, I rushed above and closed them just as the rain hit.  Our new carpet was saved!  The storm continued unabated for several hours but we were securely docked and sustained no damage.  The Bottom  Line received an excellent washing!

June 16                          Kingston, New York

We departed Liberty Landing Marina shortly after eight o’clock on a glorious sunny morning.  It was exciting to pass under the George Washington Bridge and leave the city behind.  We felt our long-awaited journey had actually begun.  Passing beneath the bridge, we saw the famous "Little Red Lighthouse, " subject of a popular children's book and a river icon.  The Palisades across from Manhattan remain unspoiled due to the vision and generosity of John D. Rockefeller, Jr. who wanted a beautiful view from The Cloisters located in Fort Tryon Park at the northern end of Manhattan.  After Yonkers,  the Hudson River is bordered by small villages which open up to large cities hidden in the dense trees.  We saw little commercial traffic. The wind was minimal and the river was smooth despite the considerable current.

 The ruins of Bannerman Castle on Pollepel Island came into view as we came around a bend in the river.
Built by Frank Bannerman, an enterprising merchant who bought all the weapons, uniforms, etc. left from the Civil War and began an early Army-Navy business that continued to prosper for many years.  He added to his supplies from the Spanish-American War.  At one time, he was outfitting some European armies.  Bannerman Castle was his summer home, later a state park, and, after a disastrous fire, is now a neglected ruin.

West Point was much more impressive from our river view than when we saw it years ago from the road.  A massive fortress-like structure that covers a huge area, West Point looks like a building from the medieval era.  It is a great example of architecture that exemplifies power and military might.

As we advanced up the river, we were met with considerable debris.  Dave was at the helm most of the day and skillfully dodged the tree trunks and branches that floated toward us.  Confident and capable, Dave enjoys steering the boat, handling the lines, and navigating.  We love having him with us.  He is great company and a lot of help.

After an eight hour cruise, we docked at the Kingston City Marina.  The small town area adjacent to the dock area was bedecked with hanging baskets, beds of flowering plants, and statuary honoring those lost at sea. We dined at Ship and Shore, a recommended casual restaurant with excellent food.  David and I enjoyed an unusual arugula salad with striped beets and dined on steamed  clams.  Dave had a crusted sea bass that met his strict criteria for seafood freshness.  We toasted the end of a great day on the water.

June 9-15                       Jersey City, New Jersey

The rain continued as we left Manasquan and returned to the Atlantic.   The wind was minimal so we were not subjected to choppy seas.  After an hour I noted the rain had ceased but we still had considerable water coming down the windshield.  We had a problem with the washer system.  Numerous efforts to turn it off failed so we turned off the water system.

On our journey to New York, hazy skies hid the city until we passed under the magnificent Verrazano-Narrows Bridge.  Traffic rapidly increased with Staten Island ferries, Statue of Liberty Cruise boats, and many personal boats darting back and forth.  We docked easily at Liberty Landing Marina and were immediately made to feel at home when the dock hand stated he remembered us from last year.

The next evening we were leaving the boat to walk in the park and as I watched David descending the steps, I saw something square and gray fall out of his pocket and into the water.  It was his new phone (only purchased a week before we left Fort Worth).  Nothing could be done so we continued our walk.  Liberty State Park has an incredible view of the new Freedom Tower, built on site of the Twin Towers.  A memorial has been built in the park that contains about a thousand names of New Jersey residents killed in the September 11, 2001 attacks.  Two long granite structures, clad with stainless steel inscribed with the names, stand parallel on the lawn. One end opens to a view of the site of the tragedy and the other to a view of a large twisted girder from one of the destroyed buildings.  It is a moving and emotional moment to view the names of those whose lives were lost.

Blake and Amanda arrived shortly after noon on June 12.  Being a “take-charge” person, Blake had brought his old Blackberry to be used by his grandfather until he received his new replacement phone from the AT&T insurance company.  He also had located the nearest place to have it activated.  That was a good reason to take the ferry and go into the city.  The weather was pleasant and we easily accomplished our mission with some additional shopping.  Dinner was at the great restaurant at the marina.

Friday was full-speed ahead as we left early to go into the city for lunch at the Plaza Food Court, one of Blake and Amanda’s favorite places for casual dining.  As the Plaza was a considerable distance from our location in Tribeca, Blake introduced us to “Uber.”  We had read about this car service but did not realize it was so widespread and successful.  Only minutes after our call, we were met by a black Mercedes SUV with a well-dressed driver who spoke excellent English.  We continued to use Uber throughout the weekend and found it to be satisfactory each time.  A little more expensive but the amenities are worth it.  Later that afternoon, we needed to leave midtown for our dinner reservation just as it began to rain heavily.  Uber was there in only a few minutes. That never happens with taxis!

 The Plaza Food Court was a dramatic change from the former oyster/seafood restaurant we went to years ago before the hotel went through multiple ownership changes and renovations.  Sleek, modern, and beautiful, the space offers many food areas with diverse menus in a casual setting.  We had delicious baby arugula salads, sautéed octopus salads, and prosciutto pizza.  The food in New York is wonderful anywhere, everywhere, and anytime!

Gwen Wells, a friend from Fort Worth, is employed by Sotheby’s, a prestigious auction house with headquarters in New York.  She had extended an invitation to tour their facilities on York Avenue.  We were thrilled!  We saw an exciting display of paintings by Victor Vasarely, whose op-art canvases are unbelievably complex in design and use of color.  Another exhibition of paintings by Dubuffet was less impressive.  We were appropriately awed by the world’s most famous stamp, an 1856 one-cent black on magenta item that will go up for auction next week and is expected to sell for more than $10,000,000.

Taking advantage of time before our dinner reservations, we “ubered” to the Modern Art Museum.  Amanda had requested we go there and I was eager to accommodate her.  The guys left us to find a nearby Starbucks.  The MOMA was packed with people!  Van Gogh’s Starry Night was surrounded by viewers and photographers.  It reminded me of the crowds always present in front of the Mona Lisa at the Louvre.    Modern art is an acquired taste and Amanda was more enthusiastic about Cezanne, Van Gogh, Mondrian, and Picasso than she was about Du Champ and Bengalis. I was pleased she had the opportunity to see some of the icons of modern genre.

Amanda and Blake have visited New York often in the past few years on their annual Christmas excursions with their family.  They are well-acquainted with the “in-places” and insisted we needed to go to Del Frisco’s for a drink.  Great suggestion!  We viewed their impressive bar area but opted for an outside table.  It was a wonderful choice until the rain came and we had to abandon our wonderful people-watching site.

We “ubered” to La Repaille, a lovely small French restaurant in the Soho area of Manhattan.  The ambiance was lovely, the service was good, the food was well-prepared, but the owner/maître ‘d had a haughty, dismissive French attitude  we have not experienced since our first visit to Paris more than thirty years ago.  In New York, one has many dining choices.  La Repaille  will not be ours. 

Gwen and Meredith Smart, another Fort Worth friend joined us for dinner and we had enjoyed hearing about living in one of the world’s best cities.   Both women love being in New York and have successful careers.  Gwen is an exhibition specialist with Sotheby’s and travels extensively.  Meredith is a teacher and will pursue a career in theater arts.  We were pleased they took the time and effort to join us.  It was a highlight of our New York visit.

Blake and Amanda’s visit ended on June 15.  They would move to the Hilton for the night to avoid having to leave the boat early for our departure.   On the same date, Dave arrived to be with us for our journey through the Erie Canal.  Together, all of us left on the ferry for the city for a last celebration of family.  We “ubered” to Eataly, a Mario Batali establishment across from Madison Park.  It was a mind-blowing experience! 

A huge facility occupying the former sites of a bank and a church, Eataly is a gourmet market, a fabulous casual dining experience, and a lovely place for formal dining. We ordered a cheese/salami/prosciutto/olives tray with Prosecco and Italian beer.   David and I were awed by the vast display of Nutella, olive oil, vinegar, meats, fish, bread, pastries, and pastas.  The entire marketing concept was amazing.  Although we considered it to be crowded, we were informed it was a slow evening.

Dinner was at Becco, a Lydia Bastianich restaurant on 46^th Street between 8^th and 9^th Avenues.  A crowd was waiting to be seated and we were pleased when we were shown to our table at exactly the time we had specified.  Becco has an unusual menu with an emphasis on pasta and Caesar salads.  The food was excellent, the service was attentive, and we had a great evening.  Afterwards, Blake and Amanda said goodbye and went to the Hilton.  We “ubered” to the marina and prepared for our early departure.