June 18                          Amsterdam, New York

Before embarking the following morning, we needed to buy our canal permit.  To expedite the process, Dave and I trekked up the hill about two blocks away to the office of the lockmaster.  The permit costs $55.00 and is valid for ten days.  That is the only charge for recreational boaters to utilize the four canal systems of New York.  It is an amazing bargain as the cost of operation for these massive locks and lengthy waterways must be considerable.

Dave has the inquisitiveness of a ten-year and when the lockmaster realized he had an appreciative audience, he gave him an extensive tour of the controls and mechanisms for the lock.  Much of the equipment was more than 100 years old but was clean, painted/polished to look like new.  Everything brass is polished each week.  The offices, grounds, and work areas were pristine.  We were impressed by the obvious pride the employees show in their jobs.  Returning to the boat, we noticed an area of concrete embedded with barefoot prints and hoof prints.  This was a small commemorative to the men and donkeys who for many years walked on paths beside the canals and pulled the barges through the waterways.

People are always the most interesting part of our travels.  Everyone (except the Stovalls) seem to travel with dogs.  Camping beside us at Waterford was a young man who was making The Great Loop in a kayak.  He had with him a tent and some bare essentials.  His trip would be approximately 2500 miles.

We went through Lock #2 with some of friends from the Waterford dock but soon passed them after exiting.  For a long distance, we were in the Mohawk River, which is often more than 200 yards wide and winds through communities with names of Revolutionary War heroes.  Using our charts, we were able to monitor distances between locks and heights of bridges and surge gates that crossed the river. 

We were alone in most of the locks and usually entered immediately without waiting.  Lockmasters were always courteous and helpful.  It was a challenge to ready the fenders, move them into the correct positions as the water came in and the boat rose, and keep the stern from pushing against the wall as it was caught in the current.

 

As the locks were large, we were not crowded even when accompanied by other vessels.  To our surprise, we encountered only recreational boats.  We saw no barges, tugs, or freighters after leaving the Hudson River.

After exiting Lock #10, we decided we stop at Amsterdam.  Some of our fellow boaters from Waterford were there, too.  All boats were tied to a terminal wall but exiting was not difficult as there was no tide.  The area was beautifully maintained with ample space to walk.  The dockage fee was $1.00 per foot of the length of the boat.  Amazing!  We again dined onboard.  David broiled Coho salmon and I made a Caesar salad with anchovies.