Monday, June 26, 2017

June 20-25                           Southwest Harbor, Maine

Another day of fog and then several days of brilliant sunshine.  Phil and Linda came for dinner on the boat on Tuesday.  We served fresh salmon and halibut laced in an attractive entree banked with sautéed squash, zucchini, and baby tomatoes.  Dessert was a fresh triple berry pie from a local pie maker.  Our guests were leaving on Thursday for a trip to Africa with their daughter, Amy.  The hours went by swiftly as we lingered over wine and good conversation.
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Miller continued to come to the boat and work his magic as he removed the decayed wooden supports for the fly-bridge compartments.  He replaced them with new wood, sanded the compartments and applied new paint.  They looked like new and we were delighted.  With the great new decking applied last year in Portsmouth, our fly-bridge never looked better.

Micah and his staff diligently worked to replace the worn carpet and supports on the gangway leading from the docks to the marina entrance.  They installed heavy outdoor carpeting and wooden dividers which greatly reduced the possibilities of slipping and falling.  With a tide of twelve feet, the gangway can become almost vertical in low tide.

Saturday dawned with dense fog which seemed to miraculously lift before noon.  We had cloudless blue skies and wonderful cool weather.  The dock was crowded with excited boaters ready to take their boats for cruises around the islands.  The Castlefinn, a 102 feet yacht owned by the family of the Ore-Ida Potato Company, always docked at Southwest Harbor in the summer, had the owner on board with guests and they took advantage of the glorious weather and left early for a long cruise. We were pleased to meet them later that evening.  Although the owner usually comes on weekends, the crew remains in place and carefully cares for this beautiful yacht.

Micah, our beloved dockmaster, was feted by numerous friends at a pig roast for his birthday.  We attended with others to see the amazing sight of a pig roasted for many hours over burning coals and taste the delicious results.   Miller orchestrated the event and it was a resounding success.  The birthday boy had been overserved and was not fully aware of the festivities.  However, to our amazement on the following morning, he was erect and sturdy on a bicycle quickly pedaling on the docks toward an approaching vessel.  The resilience of youth!!!!

Sunday was another glorious Maine summer day.  Pretzel needed some attention and David made an appointment with a vet in Bar Harbor.  We were impressed with their beautiful facilities and great staff.  It was exceptionally clean and fresh-smelling.  Afterwards, we enjoyed lunch, with Pretzel at

our feet, on the dock of a renowned seafood restaurant.  The food, halibut and a seafood medley was exceptional, as was the service.

 The town was packed with tourists from numerous buses and two large cruise ships.  Bar Harbor handles well this influx of population.  Restaurants, shops, and civic amenities are up to the challenge and everyone seemed to be in a happy mood as they perused the streets, relaxed on the village green, and enjoyed the beautiful harbor scene.  We felt fortunate we were not leaving but would return to our beautiful boat and enjoy a lingering sunset from the bridge.












Monday, June 19, 2017

June 16-19                      Southwest Harbor, Maine

Friday was a day of preparation for our guests, Katrina and John Little from Fort Worth.  Their visit provided the motivation to be more diligent in cleaning the boat.  Miller began work in the compressor and engine areas to clean, organize, and prepare to paint the floors.  Every boat captain takes particular pride in showing off a pristine engine area.  David has not had that joy for quite some time as back problems have prevented him from doing the arduous work required.  Miller can do it faster and better.

Katrina and John arrived about 7:00 PM on Saturday as the marina was being enveloped in fog.  Our usual source for lobster was not available but we were able to acquire four large ones from a local lobster pound.  Miller cooked them in sea water on the dock and we were spared the smell within the boat.  Corn on the cob and blueberry pie with vanilla ice cream completed a quintessential Maine dinner.

Fog continued to cover the area but finally lifted enough for us to leave the boat and enjoy a tour of Mount Desert Island.  As John is the proud owner of a 1931 Model A Ford sedan, we made a visit to the Seal Cove Antique Auto Museum.  This amazing collection of mostly restored and very valuable automobiles from America and Europe is one of the largest in the United States.  Located in a remote village on the island, it is lovingly staffed by volunteers and is a wonderful surprise for antique automobile fans.

We made a brief journey to Northeast Harbor to see the magnificent homes dotting the hills of that enclave for the rich and famous.  Martha Stewart and some of the Rockefeller family are among its residents.

Thula Gardens, high above the beautiful cove at Northeast Harbor, was easily accessible by car and the weather cleared for our visit to this incredibly beautiful place.  Replete with huge rhododendron bushes laden with blooms of pink, magenta, and white and surrounded by ancient beech, cedar, and oak trees the garden is a  visual delight.  Begun as a private garden by an avid horticulturalist and conservationist, the grounds have expanded and improved through the years but remain intimate and accessible.  The lovely cedar cabin, once the home of the founder, contains many original furnishings, including two large zinc sinks, a wood burning cooking stove, and a large collection of the family’s blue patterned china.

We enjoyed a late lunch at the Jordan Pond Restaurant.  The renowned view from the terrace unfortunately was obscured by fog.  The vegetable stew was delicious but the highlight was the popovers and strawberry jam that accompanied them.   The restaurant is family-friendly, casual and extremely popular with visitors and residents.

We followed the scenic roads to Bar Harbor and easily found the B and B where John and Katrina had become engaged almost l7 years ago.  It has remained a lovely, stately mansion offering gracious hospitality to its guests.  Bar Harbor has a number of these B and B’s or inns which formerly were privately owned homes during the town’s “Golden Age.”  A steel band concert on the beautiful lawn overlooking the harbor brought a large crowd of Father’s Day celebrants to enjoy the music and the ambiance. 

After dinner on the boat of fresh halibut with capers, we enjoyed conversation with our interesting and delightful guests.  John and Katrina, wearing their The Bottom Line embroidered caps, left on Monday morning to continue their vacation trip to Quebec City and Montreal.  We missed them immediately.











Friday, June 16, 2017

June 12-15                                       Southwest Harbor, Maine

We rejoiced in being back in “our happy place,” a term Kennedy has applied to SW Harbor, and quickly became acclimated.  Dinner was on the Hardberger’s beautiful Fleming 56’motoryacht.  Linda made a delicious beef stew and served blueberry pie and vanilla ice cream for dessert.  They were thrilled their good friend had been elected mayor of San Antonio (a position held for two terms by Phil only a few years ago) on Saturday and the conversation dealt mainly with politics.

Rental cars in Maine are expensive and can be in short supply.  We were pleased to secure one from the Bar Harbor Airport for a discounted rate (due to help from Jane in the marina office).  They delivered it and we were able to see more of this lovely area.  The car is almost the same bright blue as was my first car after we married.  We had bought a used Plymouth and David painted it "Chevrolet Truck Blue.”  One could always find it in the parking lot and this car will be the same.

 A trip to Ellsworth, eight miles away replenished supplies for our weekend guests.  On our return to SW Harbor, traffic in both directions suddenly halted on the two-way road.  A mother duck and her ducklings were nonchalantly crossing to the other side.  Everyone waited patiently until they were safely in the grass before continuing.  It was a scene right out of Make Way for Ducklings!

Sitting on the aft deck at lunch, we spotted something dark moving through the water near the boat.  It was a small seal, one of many in the area but rarely seen in the marina.  We hope to see more when we take our dinghy into Somes Sound, a secluded and scenic place near us.

Miller appeared early Thursday morning and began giving the boat the cleaning and scrubbing needed to remove all the salt from our journey.  He worked all day and the boat shone from bow to stern with glistening windows and shiny decks.

Pretzel is delighted to run madly around the deck and peek into the galley windows to watch me at work.  We are pleased to report she is being “boat-trained” but is forever forbidden to be on the new salon carpet.  A new 18-inch gate keeps her on the aft deck but provides a view to us in the salon. 

Micah and Miller cooked dinner for us and several other fortunate guests on Thursday evening.  Miller’s specialty is succulent, thick, juicy pork ribs and Micah made a delicious baked halibut.  I contributed a corn casserole and another guest brought crab and lobster stuffed manicotti with a light tomato sauce.  Dining in the pavilion on the dock, we enjoyed meeting some of the other marina guests and staff while watching a lingering sunset.






Sunday, June 11, 2017


June 10                                             Southwest Harbor, Maine

Weather reports were very favorable for the weekend and we contemplated making our planned two-day trip into a long one-day trip.  This would mean leaving by 5:00 AM in order to reach SW Harbor fourteen hours later.  As sundown was not until 8:30 PM, we would have plenty of daylight for the trip.  It would be a long day but we were ready to go to Maine!

We easily left the dock as planned with the rising sun blasting into our eyes as we dodged the lobster pots and entered the ocean.  We plotted a straight course across the Bay of Maine which would take us far off-shore.  This would help us avoid the many islands, rocks, and shoals that present hazards to boaters. 

We took turns at the helm and enjoyed long naps on the sofa when “off-duty.”  Pretzel rode peacefully beside David on the Captain’s bench or snuggled with him to nap.  We saw few boats, many lobster pots, and several large logs floating out to sea.  We attempted to avoid all of them but a lobster pot line became entangled in one of our props and we were jarred by the sudden shaking and noise.  David skillfully reversed the engines and the line was thrown off the prop without damage to the boat (and hopefully to the lobster pot).

The waves were not cresting but the ocean had a rolling quality which seemed to indicate tremendous motion beneath.  I thought of the documentary on the beginnings of the tsunamis in Thailand and Japan in which the oceans were steadily building toward huge waves that overpowered everything in the area.  Nonsense!  There were no tsunamis in New England!  I quickly returned to my needlepoint project.

For a brief period late in the afternoon, the waves began to crest and walking inside the boat was difficult.  David, with Pretzel in his arms, began to walk from the sofa to the helm, lost his balance and fell.  His head hit hard against a wooden table and he lay prone on the carpet.  There was no blood and he finally managed to get up and, with a headache, resumed his duty as Captain.  Pretzel was quickly dispatched to her place on the aft deck. 

At 6:15 PM, we cruised past the new breakwater into our assigned dock at SW Harbor.  Micah, the dockmaster, his son Jacob, and our friends from San Antonio Phil and Linda Hardberger were there to greet us.  We celebrated with the Hardbergers on our aft deck with wine and good conversation.  We look forward to seeing them often during our summer at SW Harbor.






June 9                                    New Castle, New Hampshire

We awakened to clearing skies and little wind.  After again checking the weather reports for the coastal areas, we learned the wind was not as strong as had been predicted the night before.  We quickly made ready to leave and departed the marina at 10:00 AM.  We agreed to cut short our trip if the wind became a problem.  We would go into Boston or Beverly rather than continuing to Wentworth Marina in New Castle, located only a few miles from Portsmouth and easily accessible from the ocean.

The 12-14 knot wind was easily handled by the 70,000 pound weight of our boat and we were comfortable in our decision to leave Sandwich.  As the day progressed, the wind steadily lightened and we had a pleasant voyage to our destination.

Wentworth Marina is located in a small, scenic cove and is part of a beautiful resort facility.  We have stayed there several times and consider it to be first-class in every way.  There are several restaurants, a courtesy car, and an efficient, helpful staff who provide any needed assistance.  We were assigned an easy dockage position and were soon ready to relax on board after a long day afloat.


June 8                                    Sandwich, Massachusetts

As predicted, the weather was sunny and the winds were light as we began our voyage after a warm farewell from the shipyard personnel who had worked on our boat.  We promised to return and once again leave The Bottom Line in their care.

We were delighted to hear the quiet, steady hum of the powerful Detroit engines which power our boat.  All other systems were performing well and we happily exited Narragansett Bay and entered Buzzard’s Bay.  This was familiar territory to us as it leads through the canal up to Boston and Maine, a journey we had made many times in the past eight years.

After several hours of uneventful cruising, we passed the Massachusetts Maritime Institute and entered the Cape Cod Canal.  Opened in 1914, the fourteen-mile canal provides direct passage from the Atlantic Ocean to the inland bays that lead to New York.  It saves hundreds of miles in open ocean travel for many commercial and recreational vessels.  During WWII, it was important as a means of avoiding German U-Boats lurking in New England waters seeking to destroy American ships with supplies for European countries.  Today, the canal is carefully maintained by the U. S.  Army Corps of Engineers and is free to the many ships and boats that go through daily.

Sandwich Marina is a small facility located at the eastern end of the canal and provides a strategic stop before entering the ocean and going northward.  It also serves as a base for the Coast Guard.  We would have preferred to continue for several more hours but we had few options for marinas before Boston.  The 58’ length of our boat is too much for the marinas in the picturesque towns of Plymouth, Quincy, and Scituate.  Boston Harbor is a wonderful destination but the marinas are located a good distance from the ocean.  We would make a long trip to Portsmouth on Friday.


We listened to revised weather reports which predicted Friday would be rainy and windy.  We were disappointed as we were eager to continue and did not wish to spend a day in port.  The sunset was lingering and beautiful as we dined on the aft deck.






June 5-7                    Wickford, Rhode Island

Monday was a disappointment.  The carpet installers finally arrived, took a look inside the boat, and promptly left without offering an explanation.  When contacted, they stated they had not been told the job was on a boat.  We were later called by their boss who apologized and promised someone would install the carpet on Tuesday.  The new batteries were delayed in shipping and would not arrive until Wednesday.  The same was true with the part for the A/C. 

Tuesday was a cold, rainy, and windy day.  We made a quick shopping trip and returned to the warmth of the boat.  Wet docks can be hazardous so we left most of the goods in the car to be removed when conditions improved.  The carpet installers called and told us the carpet had not been returned by the guys who came on Monday.  They promised to do the job on Wednesday morning. 

We were greeted by a beautiful, warm, sunny day on Wednesday and positive things began to happen.  The carpet was installed quickly and we were very pleased with the work.  The A/C guy replaced the defective part and added needed Freon to the systems.   The new batteries were expertly lifted from the dock onto the bow of the boat and soon were connected.  I returned the rental car after one more trip to the store to ensure we were well stocked.  The weather reports for the next four days were favorable.  We were finally ready to start for Maine!






Monday, June 5, 2017


May 30-June 4                     Wickford, Rhode Island

Our plans to return to Wickford in mid-May were changed twice by a business concern and the sudden unexpected death of a beloved friend.  We finally made an early departure on May 30 with dog and five suitcases.  Pretzel, our miniature Dachshund puppy, accompanied us in a small carry-on.  She had been mildly sedated and was quiet and docile.  Our trip to Providence was uneventful and we secured our rental car and soon were on the way to Wickford.

The scenery on the short drive from the airport was lovely with lush greenery, magnificent bushes of rhododendrons in profuse blooms of white, pink, and magenta, and tall erect Irises in colorful display. The many historic homes along the route seemed to be situated in botanical gardens.

 Our GPS guided us to Wickford Shipyard and we easily found The Bottom Line on the main dock.  To our amazement and delight, Miller Dupuis, our friend from Maine, waved to us from the deck and immediately came to transport our luggage to the boat.  He was a lifesaver!  He lives nearby and had come to the marina to wash the boat, straighten the interior, and see that all systems were ready for our arrival.  He would continue to work on the boat for several days more to provide the help needed to prepare for our journey.  We were pleased to have a great view of the channel from the bay and could easily watch the many boats and various activities on the water. 


After short naps, we left for Wickford, only a half mile from the boat, to buy food for breakfast and have dinner.  Tate’s Italian Kitchen, a small local favorite, was our choice.  Immaculately clean and neat, Tate’s is a delightful place with excellent food and service.  We enjoyed veal, mushrooms, and capers in a flavorful lemon sauce.  My roasted beet and orange salad was the best ever.  With a good bottle of wine, we celebrated our return to Rhode Island.
Wickford Shipyard is a large facility with many boats in the water, on the hard, and in various shops.  We were pleased with their winter storage care and the extra help we needed to facilitate solving newly discovered problems.  Several large batteries were dead and David decided to replace all eight of them.   They were ordered and would be installed on Monday or Tuesday. The AC in the middle stateroom needed a new part and would be arriving on Monday.  Carpet for the salon was due to be installed on Monday.  Next week would be busy.  Two plastic curtains on the aft deck needed zipper replacements.  A canvas shop was nearby and this repair was quickly made.  Miller was present and active on a list of small tasks. 

The car was useful for trips to Walgreen’s, Wal-Mart, West Marine, and limited sightseeing.  An excellent grocery store was in Wickford. We quickly became acclimated to the area and its many amenities.  Miller surprised us with Caribbean rice and beans with delicious pork ribs for our lunch on Wednesday.  On Friday, he brought freshly caught monk fish and scallops for our weekend meals.  We are spoiled and we love it!  Pretzel us consistently defying our attempts to "boat train" her.  She is unpredictable and I am in fear of my soon-to-be-installed carpet.







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