May 15 and 16                                    Havre de Grace, Maryland

It was finally time to leave Baltimore and we were ready!  The dinghy was uploaded and secured, fenders were retrieved, and lines were stowed.  We waved goodbye to our friends on the dock and headed down the Patapsco River to the Bay.  We were bound for Havre de Grace, about thirty-eight nautical miles northward on the Chesapeake and four miles west on the Susquehanna River.  It would be an easy day of cruising in pleasant weather.

Havre de Grace is on the western side of Maryland (the same as Baltimore).  We had not stopped there before but after learning it was a charming, quaint town with several good marinas, we chose it for our first dockage.  The name, suggested by the Marquis de Lafayette, is French but is pronounced by the locals as “have-er dee grayce.”  Proposed to be the nation’s capital, it lost the decision by only one vote.  The town was burned by the British in the War of 1812 and was almost destroyed by Hurricane Isabel in 2003.  Beautifully restored, the streets are lined with lovely shops, restaurants, and Victorian era homes.

We were pleased to secure dockage at Tidewater Marina, only a short walk from the downtown area.  Assigned a slip down a long, narrow channel, David negotiated it with skill and confidence.  Our absence had not diminished his ability to handle the boat. The marina had good internet connections and I was finally able to go online and purchase tickets to the new Barnes Museum in Philadelphia.  We will go there early on May 31, the day we return to Texas.  Many dates and times were unavailable and we were fortunate to get our choice.

A quick lunch onboard and we were ready for a walk.  Freshly painted stores and homes lined the streets to the Historic Downtown District.  As a duck-hunting mecca, Havre de Grace was the home of noted decoy carver, R. Madison Mitchell, whose works are exhibited at the local Decoy Museum.  Other stores also display decoys and beautiful wooden bird sculptures.  Antique malls and shops are prevalent.  David loves browsing their aisles for items that recall memories from the past.  As we have no space at home or on the boat for more, we seldom buy anything other than books.

Dinner was a non-cooking event with smoked mackerel from the Polish Deli in Baltimore, cheese, flatbread, and cherries for dessert.  The mackerel was delicious, very subtle in flavor and not overly smoked.  We regretted we had bought only one.

Thursday was sunny and very warm.  The afternoon temperature was in the upper eighties.  The streets of Havre de Grace were paved, not cobblestone as in Baltimore, and were perfect for biking.  Unfortunately, the tires on David’s bike were ruined.  We located a shop about a mile away, checked to see if they had the correct size in stock, and were delighted they could change the tires for us. 

Biller’s Bikes was a locally owned business that seemed to take great pride in their service.  We left the bike and, following the owner’s suggestions, walked to McGregor’s Restaurant for a late lunch.  We were given directions, and failing to consult our map, walked twice as far as necessary. Once again, we were amazed by people who cannot give good directions.  I was exhausted and couldn’t believe David had been able to make it.  He seems to be recuperating well! 

Retrieving the repaired bike, we returned to the boat via a much shorter route.  After a brief nap we climbed to the bridge of the boat and watched sailboats racing on the river.  It was a lovely, cool evening with just enough wind to fill the sails as the boats tacked back and forth on their course. It was a beautiful scene.  Dinner was a delicious kale salad (from our Costco supply) and nachos.  It was not gourmet fare but we enjoyed it.