July 21-24                            Montreal, Canada

We were pleased on Monday when Nick arrived to repair the salon air-conditioner (once more needing a Freon boost).  Wayne, whom David had met earlier in the week, graciously asked one of his own employees to come to our aid.  He quickly and competently solved the problem.  An emigrant from Greece, he told us an amazing story of the convoluted way he finally achieved citizenship in Canada.  After hearing of his struggles and deprivation, we once again appreciated our good fortune to have been born in the United States.

Long hours waiting for locks to open had meant significant use of our bow thruster.  Apparently, it made it to Montreal and then died.  This is a major problem and the marina had no recommendations for help.  Wayne had left so he was not a resource for information.  David began tackling the problem.  Two days later, he discerned a new part would be needed to repair the unit.  This was ordered to be delivered to his office and he would bring it back to the boat when he returns from Texas.

I left David to visit Chateau Ramezay, the oldest house in Montreal and located at the top of the hill above Vieux Port and our marina.  Built in 1705 as a private residence, it was considered to be the grandest house in Canada at the time.  Through the years, it has been renovated many times to be governmental offices, a school, and now a museum depicting early life in Montreal.  In 1776, Benjamin Franklin came here and tried to convince the Canadians to join with the colonials against the British.  Obviously, he was not successful.  Franklin later stated, “It would be easier to buy Canada rather than fight for it.”  Perhaps we missed a great opportunity!

There were some excellent exhibitions in the museum—a 1901 automobile made in France, a metal device to suspend dead bodies for display after being hung (a means to discourage crime), and an explanation of transforming beaver pelts into fashionable top hats for gentlemen.  Two rooms had been transformed into a French salon with the addition of gorgeous paneling and Baccarat chandeliers, once in a Parisian mansion.  These were gifts of France after being displayed in the Montreal Expo.  Behind Chateau Ramezay was a large garden space with flowers and vegetables.  It was a quiet and lovely oasis in the middle of a busy tourist area.

Other projects kept us on the boat most of the time.  It was never boring.  There was an active people scene all around us.  A spectacular fireworks show on Wednesday night reminded us of our experience a week earlier as we were in the middle of the mayhem surrounding the scene.  Watching from the bridge, we enjoyed the show much more!  Tomorrow we leave for Texas and Belgium.  Marina staff have been notified and agreed to watch over the boat. We look forward to returning and continuing our journey.

July 20                                     Montreal, Canada

After making a special Sunday breakfast and dining onboard, I left David to go to the Musee des Beaux Arts, the largest fine arts museum in Canada.  As it was one of the stops on our Gray Line route and my ticket was valid for two days, I decided to board the bus again and repeat part of yesterday’s tour.  I had an excellent guide and enjoyed seeing again the sights of the city  The former entrance to the Musee displays a magnificent Dale Chihuly glass sculpture named The Sun, purchased recently by popular subscription.

The Musee, once located in an impressive Beaux Arts style building, now has its entrance in a contemporary glass and steel structure across the street.  Designed by Moshe Safdie, it is a light-filled and welcoming space.  The main lobby is an atrium in black and white with accents of red.  Stairs leading from the area are in black granite and appear at first to be a gradual slope rather than a decline or incline.  Very, very user-friendly!!

The collection is extensive and varied.  There are some great hits and a few not so much.  Everything is beautifully installed in galleries with complementing colors.  I was pleased to see many paintings by Flemish and Netherlandish artists (recently studied in preparation for my imminent departure on the Kimbell Museum docent trip to Belgium) and especially delighted to see a lovely small sculpture of St. Sebastian by Tillman Reimenschneider, a master of wood carving.  I admired an exquisite portrait of a young lady by Rembrandt and Jacob Van Ruisdael’s Bleaching Fields Near Haarlem, once displayed at the Kimbell.

There is a tunnel passing beneath the street which serves as an entrance to the galleries for contemporary paintings, sculpture, and design items.  It is well-designed for functionality and beauty.  Above the contemporary galleries, one enters the original building of the museum with its grand staircase leading to the second floor and space for special exhibitions.  These galleries remain in their traditional state except for lighting improvements.

The special exhibition for the summer was a collection of works by Carl Faberge.  Numerous display cases contained artifacts once owned by the last Czar of Russia and his family.  Most had been manufactured by this famous jeweler to European royalty.  The highlights of the exhibition were the four Easter eggs made as special gifts for the Tzarina.  The “gossip on the street” was that one such egg had recently been offered for sale for $36,000,000. 

I was especially enamored with the exquisite cloisonné and jeweled teapots, vases, and other items that were miracles of craftsmanship.  Billed as the largest display of Faberge’s incredible genius outside of Russia, the exhibit was well-attended.  I was surprised I was allowed to take photographs. 

Leaving the museum after more than three hours, I planned to take a taxi to the boat but changed my mind when I saw the little red bus coming my way.  I again boarded the bus for the second part of the route and enjoyed seeing again the sights of Montreal with another excellent guide. 

Leaving the bus at its final stop at Dorchester Square, I started walking toward the Vieux Port and the boat.  Enroute I stopped at the Cathedrale Marie Reine-du-Monde, a scaled-down version of St. Peter’s in Rome.  Mass was being conducted so I very quietly entered and observed.  The interior is a beautiful combination of creams and apricots with gold accents.  It contains numerous paintings and sculptures but remains tasteful and pristine.  The dome is 249 feet tall, coffered, and provides light from the lantern on top to illuminate the altar.   

Montreal encourages outdoor art.  In front of L Hotel, an upscale boutique hotel, is a monumental Botero sculpture and a Robert Indiana icon.  My favorite is the witty depiction of  The English Pug and The French Poodle near the Basilica.

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July 17-19                                        Montreal, Canada

We were slow to move after our long and stressful day coming into Montreal.  Finally, we left the boat as the afternoon began to cool and walked up the hill to explore the area.  We were at the “front door” of Vieux Montreal.  People were everywhere.  We walked the old streets and looked into the small cafes, bars, and shops.  Notre Dame Basilica was nearby and we admired its French Gothic architecture.  Across the side street was an excellent Christmas shop (worthy of a visit) with many lovely nativities.  I was tempted but did not buy!

We decided to have a glass of wine and an appetizer before returning to the boat for dinner.  Jardin Nelson had a lovely terrace area and had been recommended.  It was a great choice for people watching and bruschetta of hearty bread rubbed with olive oil, lightly toasted, and served with chopped tomato and capers.

On Friday, I walked about eight blocks to McGill Maritime Services to buy charts for the downriver part of our journey from Quebec.  No chart books were available so each chart had to be bought separately.  It was expensive but necessary.  The GPS has proven to be reliable but I am more comfortable having chart backup.

While I was gone, David met a fellow boater, Wayne, who owned a ship repair service.  His company, established by his father years ago, repairs large ships that come through the St. Lawrence and dock in Montreal during the winter.  He offered to have one of his guys come to look at the air conditioner in the salon which had failed to cool for several days.  He also invited us to attend a dock party that evening with some of his friends. 

Wayne was a gracious host when we arrived at his party a little after seven.  Two chairs were set up and waiting for us.  His brother, an acoustic guitarist, provided an hour of very good music.  Everyone on the docks was sitting on their boats enjoying the music.   It was a fun scene.

At a break in the music, we left to walk to the Basilica and attend a special light and sound show.  Drapes had been placed around the huge interior.  These served as screens for the colored lighting and projected scenes depicting the early history of the city.  Alternately, the lights played off the intricate woodwork on the three levels of the sanctuary.  It was a great way to see this incredible building.

Dinner was at Versa, a beautiful little restaurant near the boat.  The cuisine was novelle French and was very, very good.  As it was late, we dined lightly.  I had sautéed octopus.  David had foie gras and a veal entrée.  He raved about the Brandy Alexander ordered for his dessert.  After a taste (or two), I had to agree he was correct.  It was excellent!  When we returned to the marina, Wayne’s party was still going strong.  We listened from the aft deck of our boat. 

Saturday was sunny but a nice breeze kept it cool.  We walked several blocks and caught a Gray Line tour bus.  The guide was very knowledgeable and the tour was well-planned.  Sitting on the top tier of the bus, we better were able to see the architectural details of the many buildings.  Montreal has a wide variety of architectural styles, traditionally French, Victorian, Beaux Artes, Twentieth Century Modernism, and Oriental.  The huge regional library had exterior wall of frosted glass panels.  The city is very clean with little graffiti and almost no trash.

A trip up Mont Royal took us to the large cemetery with more than a million graves and a huge public park with numerous facilities for sports and entertainment.  People were spread on the grass listening to music and sunbathing.

A major attraction of Montreal is the massive St. Joseph Oratory on the apex of Mont Royal.  It is a place for prayer and a pilgrimage site for years for those who seek healing and blessing.  Masses are held there but no funerals, weddings, or christenings.  Mexican workers, who emigrate to the Montreal area each summer and fall to harvest crops, come there on weekends to seek special blessings on themselves, their families, and the crops they will harvest.

Returning to the downtown area, we left the tour at The Village.  The main street of the area is covered with a canopy of pink plastic balls.  This is known as the Gay part of the city and has a diverse group of shops, restaurants, and residents.  It was entertaining and somewhat shocking to walk through the area on our way to one of the famous underground shopping malls.  Resa is one of the largest and most upscale of the malls which give Montreal’s citizens an opportunity to shop in comfort during the long and very cold winters. With a large center atrium dominated by a fountain, numerous walkways lead in every direction.  There are shops, cafes, professional offices, and many other businesses located underground and accessible from exterior entrances.  Although the weather was lovely outside, there were many people in the mall area.

We walked more than two miles back to the marina.  David is determined to use this trip as an opportunity to exercise and build strength and stamina.  He insists he sees more by walking and the effort is good for him.   The past five years were difficult for him health wise and walking was very limited.  It is great to see him improving.

July 16                                               Montreal, Canada

Weather forecasts were favorable for moving on downriver.  We were about 70 nm from Montreal.  This distance was an easy day of cruising for us; however, we would have to go through four locks and some delay could be expected.  We decided to make an early departure to ensure we would reach Montreal well before nightfall.

The morning was clear, cool, and beautiful.  We left Cornwall before 8:00 AM on calm water.  Our GPS indicated at our normal speed we would reach our destination before 3:00 PM.  We saw many impressive homes on the shores of the river.  The area appears to be economically prospering.  Two large manufacturers of aluminum are located nearby, the large Port of Cornwall is active, and the river is a conduit for trade.    We encountered a railway bridge with an elevator lift and had a thirty minute wait for an opening.  We enjoyed our leisurely cruise and reached the Beauharnois Locks a few minutes before noon. This lock is actually two locks, both downlocking. 

As instructed, we docked and I checked in by telephone.  Payment was by credit card and the ticket would be given to an attendant inside the lock.  We were advised on the light board we would be delayed until 3:30 PM.  As we waited, another smaller boat with three young men docked near us.  One of them, Michael, came over and engaged David in conversation.  He informed us that when the lock opened, we would go first, they would follow, and tie to our starboard side.  This was standard procedure for this lock.  The lock was huge and we could not see the necessity for rafting when there would be plenty of room for us to be placed individually along the wall.  At 2:30 PM, a large freighter emerged from the lock and we were allowed to enter.

  

Michael was correct.  We were required to raft with their boat on our starboard side.  As the stern of our boat tends to move out with the descent of the water and I am not strong enough to prevent it, we were not a good anchor for the other vessel.  Michael easily boarded our boat and came to my aid.  He remained on board through the next lock (which we entered immediately) and again helped me.  He and his friends were enjoying a day of vacation and he insisted it was great fun to assist us and see our boat.

We were now at 4:00 PM and had to make a decision to either stop at a marina or continue.  The weather was great, we had only two more locks, commercial traffic had been light, and we thought we could easily make our destination in three hours—well before dark.  We would continue.  Soon we were seeing the cityscape of Montreal in the distance.

The approach to the final two locks is by a long, long canal with a speed limit of 6 knots.  We slowed our speed and reached St. Catherine Lock just in time to see the green light turn to red and the massive doors closing.  Michael had told us there was no necessity to check in or buy a ticket so we were spared the difficulty of docking the boat.  We waited, waited, and waited.  Eventually, we saw the silhouette of a massive bridge rising above the lock doors.  We waited, waited, and waited.  Two hours after our arrival, an enormous supertanker slowly emerged and we finally were allowed to enter.

Unhappy with the outward movement of the stern of our boat in the locks, David and I devised a different plan.  Although the stern cleat only can be reached by bringing a line through the small opening on the siding of the aft deck, it would be a more stabilizing location for the rear dock line than the midship cleat.   After catching the forward line, I would quickly sescure it to the bow cleat and then rush to the aft deck to pull through the rear line.  David would take my place and I would return to the bow, untie the line, and hold it tight as the boat descended.  To our delight, this plan worked perfectly. We were able to keep the stern in place near the wall.

We were subjected to another wait at St. Lambert’s Lock, the final one on our journey.  Now it was after 8:00 PM and the sun was starting to set.  I took advantage of the delay, went to the galley, put chicken breasts in the oven, and prepared some vegetables.  We would be too tired to go out for dinner once we were in the marina.  Forty minutes later, another tanker came out of the lock and we were admitted.  Employing our new procedure, we easily handled the boat as it slowly descended.

It was now dark.  We had never run The Bottom Line at night and had never been in the huge basin of Montreal during the day or night.  There was a strong current and the turbulence made it difficult to consult our chart.  The GPS was our only guide; but to our dismay, the display became very dim.

 We could see the lights of the city and a huge entertainment park on an island near our turn in the river.  It was larger than Six Flags Over Texas and brightly lighted.  As we were passing, we noted a sea of lights from boats that appeared to be anchored in front of the park.  Within a minute, we learned why they were there.  Fireworks began to explode overhead.  It was an impressive show but we could not be distracted as we were trying to dodge the many boats and maintain our course.  As we slowly moved forward, we were hailed by a police boat and told to go back.  No one was allowed to leave until after the fireworks.  At this point, David and I started to laugh!  It was now past 10:00 PM. 

During the delay, I consulted the manual for the GPS, found the solution for our display problem, and easily fixed it.  Now we could find our marina!  The fireworks ended after thirty minutes.  With hundreds of other boats, we began to move through the darkness down the river.  In addition to the current, there was considerable turbulence from the boat traffic.  David tends to become very calm when there is a crisis and he skillfully and patiently steered our boat through the mayhem to Vieux Port of Montreal, our final marina for this first part of our journey.

Vieux Port is nestled between huge commercial docks used for tour boats and cruise ships.  We used the famous Heritage Clock Tower as our location marker.  The marina was past it on the starboard side.  It was well-lighted and dock help was waiting for us.  We were assigned a slip next to the back wall of the marina.  This should be an excellent place to leave the boat next week when David returns to Texas and I join the Kimbell Museum group in Belgium.   It was now twenty minutes until midnight.  It had been a challenging day but we were safely in Montreal.  Dinner and several glasses of wine were celebration for our achievement.

  

July 14-15                            Cornwall, Ontario

We arose early for departure shortly after 7:00 AM.  We had been told pleasure craft were admitted to Eisenhower Lock at 10:00 AM and 1:00 PM.  There was no information available on the assigned telephone number, the internet, nor in any of my books as to an exact schedule. We arrived at the entrance to the lock at 9:00 AM and followed check-in instructions.  We had to dock the boat in an assigned area (without help), walk on a swaying pontoon, and climb the stairs to a call station.  We were told we would have a very brief wait as the lock would soon be opening to emit upriver boats.  I quickly re-boarded and we returned to the lock entrance area.

After entering the lock, we found a completely different docking procedure.  With assistance (thankfully), we tied to bits that lowered as the water receded more than 35 feet.  The turbulence was considerable and I found it very difficult to maintain control of the lines and keep the fenders in place to protect the sides of the boat. 

Only a short distance from  Eisenhower Lock, we entered Snell Lock (there was no preliminary check-in) and encountered a similar situation.   Both locks are massive as they were built to accommodate the large commercial tankers that come through enroute to the Great Lakes or the Atlantic.  We were alone in both locks so we were spared the anxiety of possibly hitting another vessel if our lines (or theirs) became too loose.

David and I agreed the check-in procedure for the locks is highly inefficient and very dangerous.  All information needed could be transmitted by electrical signs (already in place) or by speakers.  We were fortunate there was no wind when we had to dock.  The pontoon was quite unsteady and would have been exceedingly dangerous in a good wind.  I would have had to go on my hands and knees to keep my balance!

Before leaving Crysler Park, I had consulted with another boater about the route to Cornwall, our next stop.  Comparing charts, he and I agreed we could take the shortcut through Polly’s Gut (a disgusting name!) without difficulty.  One of my books mentioned a 24’ bridge in the area but neither of us could find such a barrier on our charts. There was a very high International Seaway Bridge noted but nothing else.  I called the marina in Cornwall, described my intentions, and asked if the bridge was a problem.  I was assured it was not.  WRONG!!!!  After exiting Snell Lock, we turned into Polly’s Gut and encountered the strongest eddies we have experienced.  Fortunately, the depth was sufficient and we were able to avoid most of them.  After several miles, we were ready to make a starboard turn to Cornwall when we saw the International Seaway Bridge and hiding behind it was the lower span we had hoped to avoid.  We could do nothing but reverse and go to Cornwall via the longer route.

Cornwall Marina is a beautiful place.  Located in a spacious park near the downtown area, we had lovely views in all directions.  After a good rest, we ventured about six blocks to the nearby mall (a small but active place), shopped a little, and walked several more blocks to a recommended restaurant.  Schnitzels was a casual place with a good menu.  We dined on an outside patio and enjoyed veal Marsala that was truly outstanding.

Tuesday morning brought more rain but the sky was clearing by noon.  Before leaving Crysler Marina, we had contacted a repair person in Cornwall to look at our persistent refrigerator problem.  Despite all our efforts, it continued to freeze everything inside.  Brian arrived as scheduled and within thirty minutes had solved the problem.  Now we could return to the grocery store in the mall and buy vegetables and fruits. 

We loved Cornwall.  The downtown area was charming, the marina was wonderful, and the people were friendly and very helpful.  We enjoyed sitting on our deck and watching the flocks of geese gather on the adjacent hill.  Robins were everywhere.  We see them so briefly in Texas s they migrate through our area.  They prove their intelligence by flying on to cooler climes!

July 10-13                                        Morrisburg, Ontario

We left early on another beautiful day to cruise to Crysler Park Marina, located five miles downriver from Morrisburg in a national park.  We were assigned an end slip next to the river and had an unobstructed view of the boats and ships going past.  It was a lovely setting with trees lining the banks, flocks of Canadian geese swimming near us, and well-maintained facilities.  There were no nearby shopping amenities, but we were stocked.

Next to our slip was a large vessel with cobalt blue siding and an ornate wooden canopy-like cabin.  In front was a spacious deck adorned by two massive carved heads of Indian chiefs.  Painted on the stern was the name Le Grand Charroi.  We soon met the owner and her friend who were friendly, funny, and very engaging.  They had recently bought the vessel and were restoring and repairing it.  It would be their summer home.  They had not attempted to take it out into the river for a cruise.  It would surely be a great attraction once they did so!  We had repairs to finish and work to do.  The weather was delightful and we spent the following day on the boat.

 Crysler Farm, once located nearby but now submerged by the building of the St. Lawrence Seaway, was the site of a decisive battle in the War of 1812 between the British and U.S. armies.  The U.S. sought to capture Canadian forts to thwart military assistance to British soldiers in New England.  Although the U.S. outnumbered their foes, the British won the battle and caused the Americans to retreat from Canada.  Today, this battle is re-enacted daily in Upper Canada Village, comprised of numerous buildings and homes from the nineteenth century that were saved from the deluge resulting from the construction of the seaway and its large dams.  We spent a day exploring the site, enjoying the crafts and skills demonstrations, and dining at the Willard Hotel, once a popular inn for travelers.  Dressed in nineteenth century clothing, the waitstaff was very pleasant and the food, simple, basic fare, was delicious.

Rain came in torrents the next day.  It was the ultimate test for the hatch to the bridge which David had recently repaired.  Adding a thick new gasket to seal the hatch had finally eliminated the persistent leaking.