Monday, August 31, 2015

August 22                                     New Castle, New Hampshire

Despite light rain, we made an early departure for Wentworth Marina.  It is easily accessible and a five-star accommodation with excellent docks and service.  David and I had stayed there before. Unlike the previous day, we had limited fog and following seas.  The five hour cruise was scenic and uneventful.  Dave again remained at the helm throughout the day.

Wentworth Marina provides a courtesy car for guests and we were able to drive into Portsmouth.  The downtown streets were crowded with people enjoying the lovely weather. Portsmouth has an air of viability with many chic shops and restaurants.  We were able to re-stock the galley with a quick trip to a local grocery store.

The marina docks were filled with people visiting, dining, and celebrating.  It was a delightful place to dock and observe the active local scene.











August 20                                      Rockland, Maine

After fueling and pumping the heads, we were encouraged by the lifting fog to make a short cruise to Rockland, approximately five hours from Southwest Harbor.  Micah, Miller, Jerry, and the young boys on staff, who had helped us often in the past months, came to untie our lines and wish us a safe journey.  David expertly moved the boat out of the tight dockage and into the harbor past the ominous shoal at the entrance with the osprey nest at the top of the marker.

Dave took the helm at the entrance to the channel leading into the Gulf of Maine.  I was eager for him to see the beautiful scenery in that area but blanketing fog soon obscured all views.  We were in fog all the way to Rockland.  Dave is experienced with radar and carefully navigated through the narrow passageways between the numerous islands on our route.


We had an easy dockage at Landings Marina.  Dinner was at the Landings restaurant, a good choice as the food was delicious and it was near to the dock.  This was an auspicious day for us. One year before we had the accident in Maine which had caused considerable damage to the boat.  Sixty-one years before, David and I had married in Cleburne, Texas.  We chose to celebrate the latter event and our successful and safe journey to Rockland.
August 16-19                               Southwest Harbor, Maine

Miller continued to arrive early each morning and focused on completing the list of tasks we had made for him (at his request).  Many small repairs were needed, not critical but important to the overall appearance and operation of the boat.  The stress cracks on the bridge were covered and reinforced by chrome strips, round orange fenders were cleaned and made ready for future use if needed, and discolorations were cleaned from the hull and rear platform. 

Fishing gear was on the boat when we bought it more than five years ago but we had never used it. Miller attached new lines and hooks and I tried to emulate others on the dock and fish for mackeral, who were schooling only a few feet from the boat.  Within minutes, we  had caught seven small ones.  Miller filleted them and I followed his instructions and fried them with lots of paprika.  Crispy and delicious with the distinctive flavor of fresh fish.

We were astonished to see a large drone flying over the marina.  It was easily seen how such a thing could be ominous and threatening for they can carry cameras and any number of other items.  This one could easily hurt someone or damage property if operated in an irresponsible manner.  Another challenge for safety concerns!


David and I took a final dinghy journey to Soames Sound and once again admired the beauty of this exceptional place.  Seals are often seen in this area but we were not fortunate to spot any of them.  With a bottle of wine and a few snacks, we lingered in the area for a sentimental farewell to our wonderful summer in Maine.  On the following day, Miller brought the dinghy up on the dock and, using a power washer, cleaned it of the algae and gunk accumulated during its prolonged stay in the water.  Afterwards, he attached it to the davit, lifted it in place on the bridge, and covered it with the re-sized canvas cover.  Garnet Johnson, who made our new Bimini top, had used her skill to fit the old cover to the shape of the new dinghy.

Dave arrived on August 19 and was eager to see Maine for the first time.  Unfortunately, his plane was delayed and it was dark before we reached Southwest Harbor.  He saw little besides the shadows of tall trees and roadside attractions.  The wonderful vistas of forests, lakes, and hills were obscured by the night and encroaching fog.


We celebrated his arrival with a lobster dinner and freshly baked blueberry pie by Debbie from the Top of the Hill restaurant.  Dave ate two lobsters and everything else in sight!  He was eager to start our journey.  Weather predictions were for early fog with afternoon clearing.  Reluctant to cruise in fog, we decided to delay the trip for one day.        
  

Saturday, August 15, 2015

August 9-15                                  Southwest Harbor, Maine

For Maine, August is the BEST month.  The days of fog and rain decrease and the glorious days of sunny, cool weather with incredible blue skies begin to dominate the scene.  Acadia National Park is a popular destination for boaters, kayaks, hikers, bird-watchers, and people like us who love the scenery, people, and food of the region.  The lines are long on the highway, the no-vacancy signs are prevalent at the many bed-and-breakfasts, and the shops are packed. 

 On a recent visit to the IGA grocery (the largest and least expensive in the area), I observed empty shelves and stockers desperately trying to maneuver in the crowded aisles to unload boxes and put goods in place.  They were not succeeding well and I left without many items on my list.

With most of his tasks completed, Miller left on Tuesday to return to Rhode Island.  Thursday was another glorious, sunny day and we left early to go to Rockland, a journey of about 2 ½ hours.  Our destination was the Farnsworth Art Museum, a well-known repository of Maine art and artists.  From Ellsworth, the journey is through lovely coastal towns and small villages.  At Bucksport, the road turns southward and within a few miles, one crosses the magnificent awe-inspiring Penobscot Narrows Bridge with its median support system of multiple cables.  My pictures are inadequate to show its majesty and beauty.  In the same area, on a point overlooking the river, are the remains of historic Fort Knox, a remnant of the War of 1812.  The British considered this area to be significant and captured the fort and the surrounding coastal towns.

Attesting to the historic background of this area, we saw several picturesque stone fences that once had served as boundary markers for early settlers.  Many of these fences have been destroyed.  Those that remain are cherished artifacts of Maine history.





Entering Camden from the north, one drives through High Street and its incredible array of beautiful homes set on lovely, manicured lawns with tall trees and flowering plants,  Surely, this is one of the most beautiful residential streets in America!  Camden is a bustling town with great shops and Cappy’s, a famous seafood restaurant prominently located on a choice corner of Main Street with a fabulous view of the harbor.  We can attest to the excellent quality of the food, service, and ambiance.  Recommended by our friend, Jeff Schemedelkoff, we came here several years ago.  
Bristol is another town on our route that warrants more time than we had on this trip.  With a great harbor, Bristol has retained much of its maritime charm and traditions.  Exceptional inns and small hotels all exhibited “no vacancy” signs and the economy of the area seems to be very, very good.





We arrived in Rockland at noon, found a great parking place, walked several blocks to the museum, and looked for a place for lunch.  This always takes a while with David who does not like “to eat but prefers to dine.”  To my surprise, he approved a small outdoor cafĂ© across from the museum.  It was a walk-up and order place with paper plates and plastic utensils but the menu met his exacting specifications.  It proved to be an excellent choice.  Dining in an outdoor garden setting, we enjoyed excellent lobster salad with a light tarragon dressing, gazpacho that exceeded that on the Kimbell Art Museum’s menu, baked beans, and cornbread that was like moist cake (Paula Deen would have been jealous).



The Farnsworth Art Museum is the beneficiary of the generosity of the Farnsworth family who made their fortune in the sardine and boat-building industries, both significant in this area in the 1800’s.  It focuses on the work of the Wyeth family, N.C., Andrew, and James, who have generously contributed many oils and watercolors to the collection.  In addition, the museum has works by Will Barnet (one of our favorites), Alex Katz, Rockwell Kent, and Winslow Homer, all who loved Maine and chose to paint here.  Photography was strictly limited but I was able to capture a few images (not prohibited).  The museum’s beautiful library is open and accessible to all.  Comfortable chairs before the fireplace would be very inviting on cold days.






On our return trip, we stopped at one of many stands selling local wild blueberries.  The season is short for these delectable fruits and Maine dwellers as well as tourists line up to purchase them.  Bakeries and restaurants freeze them in season so they will have ample supply for the many months when they are not available.  Smaller and sweeter than blueberries we can buy in Texas, they are a special treat. 


David decided to make a blueberry pie, researched the recipe on the internet, called Frank Wilson for his crust advice, and embarked on a mission to make his own blueberry pie. As any cook knows, pie crust is a huge challenge.  With flour to his elbows and all over the cabinet, he patch worked the crust into the dish.  The filling was excellent and the crust was good but not pretty. We enjoyed it very much but will probably look to local sources in the future for blueberry pie.






Friday, August 14, 2015

August 1-8                                       Southwest Harbor, Maine

Saturday was a beautiful day and the harbor was filled with visiting yachts and sailboats from the annual New York Yacht Club’s cruise to Maine.  Regatta races and kayaks added to the number of vessels in the area.    A good breeze aided the sailboats and everyone seemed to be having a great time.  We were invited guests of Jerry and Jill, owners of the boat docked behind us for most of the summer, along with Miller and his family for a cruise to Bass Harbor.




Miller’s wife, Aga, their six month old son, Junior (sometimes known as “Miller Lite”), and Aga’s parents from Poland had arrived from Rhode Island to spend the weekend.  Aga came to the United States almost fifteen years ago on a basketball scholarship to a small Midwestern college.  She is 6’9” tall, very slender, and loves sports.  She speaks excellent English and works with petroleum companies to determine if they are in compliance with all regulations.  Very smart, friendly, and gracious—we liked her immediately.  Her parents speak no English, had never been to this country, and were captivated by their handsome smiling grandson.




Jerry knows this area well and, without hesitation, cruised quickly through the rocks and shoals in the passage from the harbor to the open ocean.  Once he had to quickly adjust speed when a flotilla of kayaks made an unexpected turn in front of us.  We had a great view of the Bass Harbor Light, which like many lighthouses is now a private residence with the light electronically controlled by the Coast Guard.  We were pleased to see on our return to the marina that the large nest on the shoal marker finally had been inhabited.  We could see two ospreys peeking over the mound of sticks that comprised their new home.




After the cruise, we joined Miller, his family, and other guests on the dock for a feast of steamed lobsters, baked salmon, Asian marinated salmon, corn, potatoes, plantains, and salad (all prepared by Miller).  He insisted we take home some of the leftovers and we gladly obliged.  Aga, the baby, and her parents left on Sunday after coming to the boat to say goodbye. We gave her father a cap with The Bottom Line logo on it and he appeared to be delighted.




The remainder of the week passed quickly as we joined with Miller to complete all the work needed to be done before our planned departure on August 21.  Of course, there was a lot of down time, too, as we read napped, went into town, and made numerous trips to the marine store for supplies.  We have noted that if a product is made or labeled for boats, it is always significantly more expensive than a similar item for common use (even soap!).




Wednesday, August 5, 2015

July 26-31                        Southwest Harbor, Maine

David has quickly resumed his woodworking project.  Using teak wood, he is gluing pieces together to form the desired thickness and then, with the band saw brought from home, he is forming curved shapes to fit the walls in our master stateroom.  He is making new baseboards to cover the spaces left when several years ago we removed carpet and installed wooden floors.  It is a difficult and time-consuming project but he seems to relish the challenge.


Miller has become a full-time employee and is often with us for breakfast and lunch.  We invited him to dinner one evening and enjoyed lengthy conversation on the aft deck.  The following morning, he arrived with beautiful orchids and a lovely note.  He is truly a remarkable individual.


After two days of foggy weather, I took advantage of a sunny day and went into Bar Harbor for a leisurely stroll through the streets and shops.  Sherman’s is a renowned bookstore with a great collection of books on Maine and seafaring.  With no one to rush me, I spent more than an hour perusing their shelves.  A large cruise ship was in the harbor and people were everywhere.  The local newspaper reported that Mark Cuban’s yacht (more than 250 feet in length) was anchored nearby but I did not see it.  This is the time of year when the huge yachts come to Maine from Canada, Europe, and the southern climes of the United States.  It is a revolving boat show and we enjoy seeing the display of beautiful vessels.








The floral scene has changed in the past few weeks.  Bushes of huge white oak leaf hydrangeas are seen everywhere and lovely yellow daisy-like wild flowers fill open spaces on the roads.  Most bridges have boxes of flowers on the sides and shops are decorated with pots of flowers at their entrances. Hanging baskets that were small a month ago are now overflowing with abundant displays of geraniums and verbenas.  Many homes have English gardens with beds of various flowering plants that seem to respond with vigor to the cool but sunny weather.




As the window and door painting project had been completed and met David’s exacting specifications, he decided to have Miller paint the front windows, galley windows, and part of the bow area of the boat.  This took days of preparation involving considerable sanding taping, and caulking. 

Miller had used brushes for the earlier part of the project but insisted spraying was the best way to finish the job.   Using our davit, he and David lifted the marina’s large air compressor from the dock to the bridge.  They attached long hoses to reach to the bow below. On Friday evening, we moved the boat to a mooring ball outside the marina in order to have ample space to spray paint without impacting other vessels.  Taking the dinghy back to the marina, Miller left us for the evening.   We enjoyed a beautiful harbor view and a magnificent golden moon.   Early the next morning, he returned with one of the marina guys and they began to work.  Before noon, three coats of paint had been applied and we were excited to see how the bow area had been transformed.






Most of the tape and paper was removed later in the afternoon after the sun had baked the finish to a hard shine.  We began our journey back into the marina and quickly realized we had a serious problem.  Our bow thruster was not working and we had to negotiate docking into a very small space.  It was a difficult maneuver and we could have had some damage or inflicted damage on others had we not had Miller’s remarkable agility to act as a “human bow thruster.” He jumped back and forth from our deck to the deck of the neighboring boat to push away our hull as David eased the boat into place.  Everyone on the dock helped to pull in the lines and we finally were safely docked.  David diagnosed the bow thruster problem, ordered the part, and it was repaired within several days.  It is essential equipment for moving the boat and we are keeping a spare part on board for any future emergencies.

Soft-shelled lobsters are now available and we buy them for $5.00 each from David, a neighboring lobsterman.  Soft-shells are much easier to crack and we think they are sweeter.  We are being spoiled by the easy availability, abundance, and affordability of this delectable seafood but we have vowed to take advantage of the situation as long as possible!!