Saturday, August 15, 2015

August 9-15                                  Southwest Harbor, Maine

For Maine, August is the BEST month.  The days of fog and rain decrease and the glorious days of sunny, cool weather with incredible blue skies begin to dominate the scene.  Acadia National Park is a popular destination for boaters, kayaks, hikers, bird-watchers, and people like us who love the scenery, people, and food of the region.  The lines are long on the highway, the no-vacancy signs are prevalent at the many bed-and-breakfasts, and the shops are packed. 

 On a recent visit to the IGA grocery (the largest and least expensive in the area), I observed empty shelves and stockers desperately trying to maneuver in the crowded aisles to unload boxes and put goods in place.  They were not succeeding well and I left without many items on my list.

With most of his tasks completed, Miller left on Tuesday to return to Rhode Island.  Thursday was another glorious, sunny day and we left early to go to Rockland, a journey of about 2 ½ hours.  Our destination was the Farnsworth Art Museum, a well-known repository of Maine art and artists.  From Ellsworth, the journey is through lovely coastal towns and small villages.  At Bucksport, the road turns southward and within a few miles, one crosses the magnificent awe-inspiring Penobscot Narrows Bridge with its median support system of multiple cables.  My pictures are inadequate to show its majesty and beauty.  In the same area, on a point overlooking the river, are the remains of historic Fort Knox, a remnant of the War of 1812.  The British considered this area to be significant and captured the fort and the surrounding coastal towns.

Attesting to the historic background of this area, we saw several picturesque stone fences that once had served as boundary markers for early settlers.  Many of these fences have been destroyed.  Those that remain are cherished artifacts of Maine history.





Entering Camden from the north, one drives through High Street and its incredible array of beautiful homes set on lovely, manicured lawns with tall trees and flowering plants,  Surely, this is one of the most beautiful residential streets in America!  Camden is a bustling town with great shops and Cappy’s, a famous seafood restaurant prominently located on a choice corner of Main Street with a fabulous view of the harbor.  We can attest to the excellent quality of the food, service, and ambiance.  Recommended by our friend, Jeff Schemedelkoff, we came here several years ago.  
Bristol is another town on our route that warrants more time than we had on this trip.  With a great harbor, Bristol has retained much of its maritime charm and traditions.  Exceptional inns and small hotels all exhibited “no vacancy” signs and the economy of the area seems to be very, very good.





We arrived in Rockland at noon, found a great parking place, walked several blocks to the museum, and looked for a place for lunch.  This always takes a while with David who does not like “to eat but prefers to dine.”  To my surprise, he approved a small outdoor café across from the museum.  It was a walk-up and order place with paper plates and plastic utensils but the menu met his exacting specifications.  It proved to be an excellent choice.  Dining in an outdoor garden setting, we enjoyed excellent lobster salad with a light tarragon dressing, gazpacho that exceeded that on the Kimbell Art Museum’s menu, baked beans, and cornbread that was like moist cake (Paula Deen would have been jealous).



The Farnsworth Art Museum is the beneficiary of the generosity of the Farnsworth family who made their fortune in the sardine and boat-building industries, both significant in this area in the 1800’s.  It focuses on the work of the Wyeth family, N.C., Andrew, and James, who have generously contributed many oils and watercolors to the collection.  In addition, the museum has works by Will Barnet (one of our favorites), Alex Katz, Rockwell Kent, and Winslow Homer, all who loved Maine and chose to paint here.  Photography was strictly limited but I was able to capture a few images (not prohibited).  The museum’s beautiful library is open and accessible to all.  Comfortable chairs before the fireplace would be very inviting on cold days.






On our return trip, we stopped at one of many stands selling local wild blueberries.  The season is short for these delectable fruits and Maine dwellers as well as tourists line up to purchase them.  Bakeries and restaurants freeze them in season so they will have ample supply for the many months when they are not available.  Smaller and sweeter than blueberries we can buy in Texas, they are a special treat. 


David decided to make a blueberry pie, researched the recipe on the internet, called Frank Wilson for his crust advice, and embarked on a mission to make his own blueberry pie. As any cook knows, pie crust is a huge challenge.  With flour to his elbows and all over the cabinet, he patch worked the crust into the dish.  The filling was excellent and the crust was good but not pretty. We enjoyed it very much but will probably look to local sources in the future for blueberry pie.






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