September 23-26                       Portsmouth, Virginia

With no significant improvement predicted in the weather for the remainder of the week, we made the decision to continue our journey to Portsmouth.   With good dock help, we left the marina and made our way into the bay.  Going against the wind was difficult but when we finally were able to turn southward, the NNE direction of the wind provided some additional speed.  The rocking and rolling motion of the boat was unpleasant but lacked the intensity of two days before.  This continued until we reached the channel leading into Norfolk and Portsmouth.

This area is home to the largest naval base in the world and huge ships and cranes line the channel for miles.  It is an impressive sight.  On land, naval facilities are dominant.  We were delighted to reach our destination by 1:00 PM, only five hours since our departure from Deltaville.  We were assigned a great docking position, sheltered from the wind and chop from the channel traffic and close to the many facilities of the marina. 

David made another incredible maneuver to turn the boat and dock in a very constricted area.  I was sure he was going to collide with several posts as he made the turn but he calmly ignored my shouted warnings and brought the boat into position with the skill of an experienced captain.  The dock help was as impressed as was I!

Later in the early evening, I was startled to see the enormous cruise ship, Aida Luna of the Seaborn Cruise Line, coming past our marina.  Its decks were packed with passengers observing the Norfolk-Portsmouth scene.  We were awed when we saw this huge vessel turning about in the crowded harbor (and doing so with the same ease and expertise shown by David when we docked.)

Thursday and Friday were days of intensive cleaning.  We like to leave the boat clean and ready for our return.  Fortunately, we had been consistent in maintenance throughout our journey from Maine so much of the work was routine.  We plan to return to The Bottom Line before Christmas for a brief visit.   Winterizing will not be necessary until January and should be considerably less involved than when the boat was stored in Connecticut and Maine.  We should be able to have the boat commissioned by the first of April, providing us with additional opportunity for earlier boarding for the summer.

Our 2015 summer on The Bottom Line has been one of the best we have ever experienced.  Our lengthy sojourn in Maine was wonderful.  Multiple visits from family and friends were delightful. We have enjoyed living and traveling on this great boat and hope to continue our journey next year.

                                                        

September 21-22                       Deltaville, Virginia

Initial weather reports predicting mild winds for the remainder of the week had changed.  Winds would be 15-25 mph but we needed to continue.  We started early for Deltaville, a journey of approximately 50 nm.  The wind made for a rolling sea which was extremely unpleasant (although far from our experience last year off the coast of Nova Scotia).  We were very pleased to reach our destination, 

Dozier’s Regatta Point in Deltaville.  David made an impressive turn in a constricted area to dock.  The marina had three people waiting for us to bring the boat in, against the wind, and safely secure it.  We were both exhausted from the difficult and stressful journey.

We had been at this marina five years ago and had a delightful Sunday brunch with the owner, publisher of the renowned Waterways Guide, a bible for boaters. In the interval, he had died but his family continues to operate the marina.  With a lovely setting, courtesy cars, and covered slips, this marina offers many amenities that appeal to boaters.

Weather reports for the following day were less favorable so we elected to spend another night at Deltaville.  It was a good time to enjoy the ambiance of the boat and escape the damp wind blowing outside.  Winds were so strong that the boat was continuously rocking.  We had to be very careful moving about to keep from falling.  At night, the vigorous movement of the boat far exceeded any “cradle effect.”

September 19-20                       Solomon’s Island, Maryland

Weather reports indicated another beautiful day with light wind, followed by a day of high winds, and then a week of great weather.  We decided to change our plans and head south.  We would winter the boat in Portsmouth, Virginia.  Our molding project would wait a little longer.  We quickly made preparations to leave and pulled away from the dock by eleven o’clock.  Our destination was Solomon’s Island, approximately 45 nm from Baltimore.

Approaching Annapolis, we encountered numerous sail boaters enjoying full sails and a smooth sea.  It was a beautiful sight and we carefully maneuvered through and around them.  This area of the bay is very busy with commercial traffic, naval vessels, and all kinds of recreational boats.  We loved being part of the scene.

Harbor Island Marina is a small place with a welcoming staff and a very good restaurant.  We had easy dockage on a face slip with a great view of the surrounding area.  Solomon’s Island is the quintessential East Coast village with a small but charming downtown area, numerous sea side cottages, several marinas, and hundreds of small boats.  Citizens are proud of its colonial heritage when it was an area for raising and shipping tobacco.

The predicted high winds for the next day kept us from continuing our journey but we were pleased to be in such a lovely place.  After a leisurely Sunday morning, we took a long walk into the village and enjoyed once again the special ambiance of this unique place.  Historic churches, numerous gift shops, art galleries, quaint restaurants, and small homes line the main street which faces the Patuxent River and the impressive bridge spanning the distance between the shores.  After touring the small oyster museum (millions were shipped from here for decades), we had a greater appreciation for the hard work entailed in harvesting and processing this delectable seafood.

Again we chose to abandon numerous leftovers in the fridge for more appetizing fare.  Our dinner was at the marina’s new restaurant, Charles Street Brasserie.  Specializing in tapas, this lovely sophisticated place was a delight.  We shared fried oysters Rockefeller, bacon wrapped figs, and ahi tuna in a delicious sauce.  All were outstanding!

                                                        

September 17-18                       Baltimore, Maryland

It is a nine hour cruise from Cape May to Henderson Wharf Marina in Baltimore.  We could not miss breakfast at the new marina café so we arose early and were inside shortly after seven.  The food was delicious, the service excellent, and the nautical theme of the place was well done.  By eight we were ready to go.  David exited expertly from our tight dockage space and maneuvered through the crowded harbor to the entrance of the Cape May Canal.  Dredging had improved the depths here and we did not have to be concerned by possible grounding (as long as one stays within the channel limits).  Lovely homes, lush lawns, and new riprap along the shoreline added to the scenery as we neared the entrance to Delaware Bay.

The bay is noted for treacherous winds, high waves, and dangerous shoals.  We carefully checked the weather forecast before departing Cape May and were assured we would have light winds and smooth seas.  As predicted, weather was not a problem.  Numerous sailboats were encountered, all under motor with furled sails.  Piloting in this area requires vigilance to avoid small craft, huge tankers, and shoal markers.

After approximately five hours, we passed the nuclear plant and reached the C & D Canal leading to Chesapeake Bay.  We encountered only recreational boats.  On a previous journey through this area, we were startled to see a monstrous cargo boat coming toward us.  Despite shallow water near the shore, we gave it a wide berth!

Chesapeake Bay is well marked and with our new binoculars, chosen by Dave who considered our others to be “junk,” we easily could discern placement and color of the buoys.  The channel into Baltimore was a familiar sight and as we passed beneath the impressive Frances Scott Key Bridge, spanning the Patapsco River, we could see the skyline of the city.

At Henderson Wharf Marina, we were docked in the same place next to Don, a local fisherman who lives in his boat.  He greeted us warmly as did Glenn Petersen, who had helped us do repairs in the past.  Later, we saw David from the office.  It was a great homecoming!  To celebrate, we cooked steaks on the grill and had dinner on the bridge, enjoying the beautiful weather and scenery.

To complete our molding project for the main stateroom, we needed additional supplies.  This meant a two mile walk to the nearest hardware store.  Midway, we saw a newly opened Mexican restaurant, La Tolteca. David had an immediate insatiable desire for enchiladas and we had to stop.  With a beautiful interior, the restaurant looked like it should have been in San Antonio.  The food was generous and delicious.  Definitely worth another visit!

We returned to the boat by Uber and resolved to work on the molding project the following day.  Tired from walking, we opted for naps. Later discussion questioned our choice of staying again in Baltimore.  David was ready to move southward to Norfolk or Portsmouth.  A call to Tidewater Marina in Portsmouth convinced him to move the boat there.  The question now was when—would we change our plans to go home on September 22 and go south or would we leave the boat in Baltimore and return to do so near the end of October.  We decided to go home as planned and return later.

September 17                             Cape May, New Jersey

The broad, white sandy beaches of New Jersey are consistent from Sandy Hook on the New York Harbor to Cape May.  Lined with homes, hotels, boardwalks, and amusement parks, the shoreline seemed to be virtually deserted.  Although the weather was warm, we saw few people on the beaches.  School had begun, vacations for most were over, and only a fortunate few could enjoy the quiet and uncrowded areas that had been packed with people for months.

Cape May Harbor had been dredged since our last visit there almost two years ago.  Water depths were significantly greater and we cruised easily into South Jersey Marina, one of the most beautiful, quaint marinas on the East Coast.   After a trip to the marine store for an impeller (usually kept on board) and a mediocre lunch at Lucky Bones, we returned to rinse the salt spray from the boat and relax.

September 16                              Atlantic City, New Jersey

We were ready to leave New York and head south.  We finally had decided to leave the boat in Baltimore.  Other places were considered, including Norfolk, Virginia and Mystic, Connecticut, but Baltimore was a good place for beginning next summer’s journey, either to the north or to the south.  As he had not piloted the boat, except for limited forays for fuel and pump-outs in Southwest Harbor, David was eager to take the helm and start traveling.

  

An early departure gave us an incredible view of the Statue of Liberty silhouetted against a blue sky and reminding everyone again of the welcoming spirit of the United States (despite recent Republican rants to the contrary).  The harbor was crowded with ferries, pleasure craft, cruise liners, barges, tugs, and enormous tankers and cargo vessels.  After going beneath the Verrazano-Narrows Bridge, we encountered numerous sailboats, all with furled sails because of the light wind.  The lack of wind was to our great advantage.  We had smooth water all the way to Atlantic City.

A mixture of lovely Victorian cottages and large, shiny glass-sheathed hotels, Atlantic City provides several sheltered marinas for mariners to dock and enjoy the ambiance.  We again chose the Senator Farley Marina at The Golden Nugget.  After a long day at sea, we opted to remain on board, oblivious to the numerous attractions offered by the casino next door.

September 8-15                          Jersey City, New Jersey

Hot, humid weather kept us on the boat and gave additional time to complete SGA and boat projects.  Stephanie returned on Thursday afternoon after the group from the Kimbell Art Museum had finished their tour in New York.  She had been very busy as one of the leaders of the group unexpectedly had to return to Fort Worth.

Stephanie and I went into the city on September 11.  Our route to the subway led us by the site of the tragedy fourteen years ago.  Police and people were crowding nearby as special ceremonies were scheduled during the day.  Massive construction is now underway at the location of the destroyed towers.

Departing at 77^th Street, we walked several blocks to Prada to make a requested purchase.  We agreed it was fun to spend other’s money (especially in such a beautiful store).  Lunch was at Three Guys, a local bistro with excellent casual food.  The Metropolitan Museum was our destination and we finally made it after some serious window shopping on Madison Avenue.  Rust, dark green and fringe seem to be the fashion trends for Fall.

At the Met, we saw the John Singer Sargent exhibition comprised of mostly portraits.  It was interesting to see the changes in the style of his work from the influence of Impressionism after meeting Claude Monet.  It was a delightful surprise to meet Carroll and Malinda Merlick from Fort Worth while we were in the gallery.  They had been on the Kimbell trip and were extending their visit in New York.  Afterwards we wandered through the Near East galleries which offered a wonderful display of carpets and tile work.

That evening, we enjoyed dinner on the terrace at Maritime Parc.  The night was clear and cool and the view across the Hudson was beautiful.  Suddenly, two huge columns of light shot up to the clouds.  They were reminders of the beautiful towers that once had stood there.  Surely, we were not the only ones who had tears in their eyes as they looked at that incredible sight.

Sunday is Street Fair Day in New York.  We visited the enormous gathering at Union Park with massive displays of food and flowers.  Afterwards, we walked to Eataly, Mario Batali’s Italian marketplace near Fifth and Broadway.  Lunch was snacks at the rooftop beer garden there.  A few small purchases in the market area meant we had to stand in a very long line for checkout. To placate us, servers brought treats of chocolate.  It worked!  We waited patiently to reach the cashiers.

On our return to Union Square, we stopped at a Sketchers Shoe Store.  As avowed shoeholics, Stephanie and I can always find something we like.  This time, our passion was for some great GOLD tennis shoes!  We both bought a pair!  Another pair was ordered for Kennedy to complete her green and gold ensembles for Baylor athletic events.

Whole Foods at Union Square was a unique and daunting experience.  Two floors of food were tightly packed into every possible space.  Carts from the lower floor are brought up by a special cog mover adjacent to the escalator.  It worked great and would be a welcome addition at airports to transport luggage from one level to another. We re-stocked for the remainder of our journey and managed to carry everything from the ferry to the boat without incident.

Stephanie’s time with us went by too quickly.  She is great company and we enjoy her wit and interesting conversation.  She is a positive person who offers encouragement and good advice.  She left on Sunday to return to Fort Worth and was missed immediately.

September 2-7                            Jersey City, New Jersey

We had one day following Dave’s departure before Suzanne came from California.  We cleaned, changed sheets, did laundry, and braced for her delightful and enthusiastic presence.  She arrived on time and we happily made plans for the week.

Friday was a great day to go into the city.  The new Whitney Museum of American Art, designed by Renzo Piano, recently opened and we were eager to see it.  Uber is our choice of transportation in New York as they are quick to respond, the cars are clean, the drivers are conversant in English, and they are often less expensive than taxis.  We “ubered” (Is this a new verb for the dictionary?) to our destination and enjoyed seeing the building and the permanent collection of the Whitney.  We were impressed with both.  Spacious, light-filled, and welcoming with numerous balconies for outdoor viewing of sculpture and the surrounding area, the Piano building is a wonderful place to visit and a great addition to its rather drab meatpacking neighborhood.  

Afterwards, we walked the adjacent High Line Park, a creative open space that once was abandoned elevated train tracks.  Instead of demolishing the structure, it was transformed into a lovely park area for walking.  It extends above many blocks with congested streets and is a popular way for many New Yorkers to commute to work and home.  We used it as a means to go to the Chelsea Market.   

Chelsea Market, located in a renovated warehouse building, holds many small shops and restaurants.  Numerous places sell seafood, meats, produce, spices, cheeses, etc.  Although it is a large space, we found it difficult to walk through the crowded aisles.  After we purchased six beautiful soft shell crabs, we escaped to the street and called for Uber.

David is known in our family for making excellent sautéed soft shell crab.  He did not disappoint us.  We had a delicious dinner on the aft deck with a magnificent view of the lighted buildings of lower Manhattan, including the new World Trade Center.

On Saturday, Suzanne and I took the subway and the Metro-North rail to the New York Botanical Garden in the Bronx.  Metro-North delivered us to the front gate of the garden.  The featured exhibition was a re-creation of the courtyard of the Mexican artist, Frida Kahlo and a display of her drawings and paintings.  We were underwhelmed by both.  The displays were sparse and mostly photographic.  The highlight was her self-portrait, Necklace with Thorns from the collection of The University of Texas.

Although there were few blooming plants, mostly roses and oak-leaf hydrangeas, we were very impressed with the garden.  A tram ride introduced us to its wonderful site with large granite outcroppings, ponds, historic buildings, rare plants, and tall trees, some as old as our country.  The magnificent conservatory, modeled after one in England, has been restored since damage by Hurricane Sandy and is a shining white diamond in its lush green setting.

Sunday was unseasonably hot for New York but we did not let the heat deter us from going to Times Square to attend a matinee performance of Beautiful, based on the story and music of Carole King. It was a great show and afterwards we enjoyed "people-watching" while we waited for Uber.  Dinner was at Amelia's, a favorite bistro in Jersey City.

Suzanne is a busy bee and was a great help to us.  She and I took our dock cart on the ferry and went into Jersey City for some basic grocery-wine shopping.  She is a fast and very efficient cleaner and the galley and heads were sparkling.  We tried to entice her to become a crew member for us but she declined.

Stephanie arrived the afternoon before Suzanne departed and the girls had an opportunity to resume their hilarious teasing remarks to one another.  We enjoyed the fun.  Stephanie is “on the job” much of the time she will be in New York so her time on the boat will be limited.

August 30-September 1           Jersey City, New Jersey

Dave and I left the boat early to go into the city.  We wanted to tour the New York Public Library, a place neither of us had been.  For the first time in a long time, the library was not shrouded with scaffolding for repairs and cleaning.  The familiar exterior with its iconic lions, urns, and columns was pristine.  Built in an age when public buildings were designed by Ecole des Beaux-Arts trained architects, the library has an overall appearance of grandeur and significance.

Using an audio guide, we toured the main areas of the building:  The Map Room, Periodicals Room, Education Area, and several small reading rooms.  The Main Reading Room was not open.  Since the main branch of the library is only for research, none of the millions of books and other items in the collection can be checked out.  Circulation is available at the many branch libraries throughout the boroughs.  The Periodical Room was our favorite with its outstanding murals of publishing houses existing during the early part of the last century.  The murals were painted by WPA-paid artists and are not only beautiful but reminders of the Golden Age of publishing in America.

Our farewell dinner for Dave was at Maritime Parc, the excellent seafood restaurant at the marina.  He expressed many times how much he had enjoyed being with us on the boat.  We were grateful for his company and his expert piloting from Maine to New York.  It had been a special time for us as a family.